I just changed out all of my fuel lines and added inline fuel filters (between the airbox carb boot as suggested in the tech tip). The problem is that the filters I bought from Bike Bandit are too large (diameter) to fit down very far between the boots. I didn't notice that there was any problem until I was ready to make the final connections to the petcocks. When I pushed the back of the tank down, the petcock outlets were right at the fuel filters, which caused kinks in the fuel lined - bad. A trip to Autozone and Advance Auto Parts yielded only larger than what I already have automotive filters or tiny filters for lawn mowers. All of the automotive filters and the ones I bought from Bike Bandit are folded paper filters. The little lawn mower filters are just fine mesh screen filters. I know these will fit but I'm afraid they will not be sufficient to keep small particles out of the freshly rebuilt carbs. Will these be sufficient or should I keep trying other auto parts stores until I find something better? Or, can anybody suggest some filters that will fit?
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Napa used to have some small cone shaped ones. You also should run a little extra line and cross connect them (right petcock to left carbs and left to right), to give more slack and make this less likely to happen. Plus it makes it easier to just turn the tank about and set it where the seat would be when tuning the engine.Cy
1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
Vetter Windjammer IV
Vetter hard bags & Trunk
OEM Luggage Rack
Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
Spade Fuse Box
Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
750 FD Mod
TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
XJ1100 Front Footpegs
XJ1100 Shocks
I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.
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I use some small ones I found at O'Rileys. They are even small enough that I can slide them in between the boots on the aribox.Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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Do you still have the octy? If not, you can point the fuel T's down, and run the lines underneath the air box boots. The lines cross underneath, and one comes up between the boots for 1 & 2, and the other comes up between 3 & 4, and they'll point straight at the petcock taps. When done this way you can use some pretty big filters. If you leave the lines a little long, you'll have enough to turn the tank around backwards and set it where the seat mounts, and run the lines straight back for syncing and adjusting carbs. The only down side is you have to remember to turn your petcocks on and off. With the octy it can be a royal PITA.
On the fuel filters, you might want to be careful with plastic filters - some have a tendency to melt and deform - particularly if you run seafoam regularly although they've been known to do it just from the ethynol in gas. I prefer the type that use the mesh internally, as opposed to the type that have a paper element. The paper doesn't like water, and they will plug up quickly if they come in contact with it - like if there's some in the bottom of the tank and you switch to the reserve position. Personally I like the NAPA FIL 3027's (same as a wix 33027). They have a mesh element, and housing is made out of metal. They flow plenty of gas and last a long time, but they're a bit large to use with an octy.
I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines
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Yeah, I am still using the octy. My petcock rebuild kit came with an octy diaphragm. I figured since I already had the parts to rebuild it, I would just go ahead and use it. It sure does make for a rat's nest of fuel lines though.
I hadn't heard of the plastic filters melting from alcohol in the fuel before. That has got to really suck. Speaking of melting, isn't the mesh filter material made of plastic too? Wouldn't that be just as likely to melt? I bought a couple of the really small lawn mower filters with the mesh filter material. I might put one in a bath of seafoam and gas (using A LOT of Seafoam) just to see what happens before I install them. I did stop at Pep Boys last night on the way home from work. They had nothing even close to working. There is a mom and pop auto parts store not too far from work that I will try tonight. It really shouldn't be this hard to find a suitable $5 part.79 XS1100 SF - name TBD - possibly "Divorce Maker" Kerker 4 into 1, K&N filter in stock air box
79 XS1100 SF - parts (for now) - "Divorce Maker II"
79 XS1100 SF "The one that got away" sold in 1993.
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Speaking of melting, isn't the mesh filter material made of plastic too?Last edited by dbeardslee; 07-27-2010, 09:51 AM.I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines
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I was just re-reading the thread and it occurred to me that if you do what Cy's suggesting and try running the lines down between the boots and then back up you might be able to accomodate the larger filters under the boots, as well as making it easier to get the kinks out without ditching the octy. I haven't tried it personally, but it might just work. JATI think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines
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I did loop the fuel lines and cross them under the boots. In reading the tech tip, it states that there is the possibility of having an air bubble trapped in the filter if mounted sideways. That is why I wanted to have them mounted vertically, between the boots. I think I also read (maybe a post from TC?) that the fuel line loops shouldn't be too long or go below the float bowls because it is a gravity-fed fuel system without a fuel pump. I'm probably making this way more difficult than it needs to be.79 XS1100 SF - name TBD - possibly "Divorce Maker" Kerker 4 into 1, K&N filter in stock air box
79 XS1100 SF - parts (for now) - "Divorce Maker II"
79 XS1100 SF "The one that got away" sold in 1993.
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I've got mine horizontal, and have never had a problem with them. As far as the loop going below the bowls - I think that's nonsense. Fredintoon's post on pascal vases illustrates what I mean pretty well - pascal's principle basically says that the fuel is going to rise as high as the fuel level in the tank, regardless of how low the loop goes.
I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines
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Originally posted by dbeardslee View PostI've got mine horizontal, and have never had a problem with them. As far as the loop going below the bowls - I think that's nonsense. Fredintoon's post on pascal vases illustrates what I mean pretty well - pascal's principle basically says that the fuel is going to rise as high as the fuel level in the tank, regardless of how low the loop goes.Last edited by 65oldsboy; 07-27-2010, 02:39 PM.79 XS1100 SF - name TBD - possibly "Divorce Maker" Kerker 4 into 1, K&N filter in stock air box
79 XS1100 SF - parts (for now) - "Divorce Maker II"
79 XS1100 SF "The one that got away" sold in 1993.
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Originally posted by Axel View Post
PS, I don't think mine ever actually filled with fuel, they always had air in them. But with my new tank (no rust and good tower filters) I am running without filters right now with no troubles. However, next time I do major fuel system work, I'm putting filters back inline.Cy
1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
Vetter Windjammer IV
Vetter hard bags & Trunk
OEM Luggage Rack
Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
Spade Fuse Box
Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
750 FD Mod
TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
XJ1100 Front Footpegs
XJ1100 Shocks
I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.
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Those look exactly like the ones I had the deformation problem with. I tried the big ones, and the small ones, and they both deformed. I'm kind of a seafoam and acetone junkie though, so maybe that had something to do with it .I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines
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Originally posted by dbeardslee View PostThose look exactly like the ones I had the deformation problem with. I tried the big ones, and the small ones, and they both deformed. I'm kind of a seafoam and acetone junkie though, so maybe that had something to do with it .Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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I don't want to hijack, but yup. I carry a little one ounce bottle, and add it when I gas up. I run it in my lawn mower and chipper too. Last year we had a hurricane that blew through (literally - don't see that much in ohio ), and I had all kinds of tree limbs to dispose of. The chipper was having a tough time with some of the larger branches, so I added a little acetone to the gas. It noticeably improved its performance. Now in addition to seafoam I put in the 5 gallon lawnmower gas can to stabilize the gas, I also put an ounce of acetone.I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines
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