Spark plug caps?

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

The end caps on my 79 are showing their age (cracked rubber boots) Should I upgrade the whole end or just look for replacement rubber? If upgrade, what is best?

[TopCatGr58]

If you still have the oem coils...most likely since you're talking about the OEM caps...duh , then there's a tech tip about putting new wires in old coils. However, IF your current coil wires are not cracking, etc, and you can see good copper wire in the end when you take off the caps...vs a bunch of green corrosion...then just new caps is all you would need. Otherwise, new caps and wires would be good. You can also cut back 1/4" or so of the wire to "try" to get to good uncorroded stuff.

MikesXS.net sells the 90 degree caps like the ones on your #1-4 cylinders. They don't have the 45 degree longer ones...so depending on how OEM you want to keep it, you may need to check with Dennis Kirk or such to get the longer 45 degree center caps. NGK of course. Mikes also sells the solid core wires.

The caps come in two flavors, resistor or not. Resistor is mostly for Radio Frequency interference, keeps the buzzing in you radio to a minimum...otherwise, not really needed, and most of the plugs you find are now resistor....so that's plenty of resistance for them.

PS, there's a tech tip regarding the NGK descriptions codes so you'll know what you'll be looking for and ordering from Dennis Kirk, etc., if you decide to try to find the longer 45 degree center ones vs. just using the 90 degrees in all 4. I did, and you might want to use a wire loom or zip tie to help pull the wires up off the head to prevent rubbing wear and grounding out!?.

T.C.

[WMarshy]

The caps are easy to replace and fairly inexpensive depending what type you use (various degree elbows). If you plan on using an "R" type plug then there is no need to use a resistor cap. Caps come in 0, 3, and 5K ohm resistance so if you use a 3 or 5K ohm cap then there is no need to use a "R" plug. Even if you use or dont use both a resister cap and plug it will still run fine, the resistor stops radio interferences. With that said, they just screw on and off, just clip about a 1/4 inch off the end of the wire if you do replace the caps.

[Rstyduck]

"What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

Cool.

[Guy_b_g]

If you still have the oem coils...most likely since you're talking about the OEM caps...duh , then there's a tech tip about putting new wires in old coils. However, IF your current coil wires are not cracking, etc, and you can see good copper wire in the end when you take off the caps...vs a bunch of green corrosion...then just new caps is all you would need. Otherwise, new caps and wires would be good. You can also cut back 1/4" or so of the wire to "try" to get to good uncorroded stuff.

If your wires are corroded at the plug end, or cracked anywhere, there is also another option besides doing the modification posted on this site for replacing the stock wires on stock coils (it's much easier too).

NGK makes some nice plug wire splices for less than $5.00 apiece, they are a very positive connection for new wire, waterproof also.

You can get them here as well as many other places:

http://www.parkeryamaha.com/ngksparkplugwiresplice.aspx

[cywelchjr]

If your wires are corroded at the plug end, or cracked anywhere, there is also another option besides doing the modification posted on this site for replacing the stock wires on stock coils (it's much easier too).

NGK makes some nice plug wire splices for less than $5.00 apiece, they are a very positive connection for new wire, waterproof also.

You can get them here as well as many other places:

http://www.parkeryamaha.com/ngksparkplugwiresplice.aspx

That looks like it might be an inexpensive viable alternative to the wire replacement. I still want to put aftermarket coils on mine, but that's not in the budget right now, but I may be able to fit these and wires into the budget.

[dbeardslee]

You might want to run the secondary resistance test on your coils to determine the condition of the high tension wires. Take a digital multimeter, remove the caps, and stick a probe in the end of each wire for a given coil. Set your dmm to the 20k ohm range, and take a reading. Spec is 15k ohms plus or minus 10%. If it's out of spec, then the wires need to go. Guy's wire splice fix might be a good way to go, although grafting new wires into the old coils isn't all that difficult - particularly on 78-80 models. I've done four or five sets, and without fail the new wires have returned them to factory spec. As far as the wires themselves are concerned, I get a four banger cage universal wire set from the local auto parts store - costs about $10. Make sure they're copper core, non-resistor wires - should say 'copper core' right on the wires.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Thanks DB

Thanks, I have a cyymer man. Res. and spark are fine, rubber on the other hand is 30 years old. Used liq. elc. tape/paint. Just was looking for the "best" OEM fix

[jamak]

spark plug caps

What's the procedure on splicing new wires into the coils on '80 standards?
I got caught in the worst rain storm I've ever encountered in over 40 years of riding today. Unreal! But my XS got me home.
The reason I ask, the two times I pulled over to try and wait it out,(no shelter), the bike was getting drown, and I knew if I didn't keep the motor running, I'd be stuck until it dried out. So I pushed on.
Though I know other factors could play in here, a new set of wires wouldn't hurt my ride. I have to say, I don't know if any other motorcycle I've owned could have done what my XS did today. But I got lucky too. Just want to improve my odds. Thanks.

[dbeardslee]

It's in tech tips - New Wires in Old Coils