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  • Mr. Clean

    This one is for the old timers out there, but I'm sure it will draw plenty of reponse from all.
    I want your best method to clean heads, jugs and cases of burnt on oil, road grime, etc.. Trying to get as close as possible to a bead blast without tearing down the bike.
    I've used Gunk in the past, brakeclean for spot work. But with all the new products, methods, and guys on here, someone has to have the ultimate solution.
    So give me your best shot. I've had a weeping cam chain adjuster since I got my bike 4K ago, and it was cryin' long before that. I'm finally getting around to fixing it, and I want to clean up all the detritus. Thanks for your responses.
    Jamak

  • #2
    Originally posted by jamak View Post
    Trying to get as close as possible to a bead blast without tearing down the bike.
    So why not just cut to the chase. Roll it out onto the driveway, suit up, and bead blast it. Just be careful where you point the nozzle?
    Ken Talbot

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    • #3
      Mr. Clean

      I wish I could Ken. I'm almost nuts enough to try it.
      C'mon, a guy with your level of expertise has to have a realistic solution.

      Comment


      • #4
        Here we go - next best thing to an oil or tire thread...

        Actually, I am partial to Super Clean which used to be distributed under the Castrol flag. It comes in concentrated form and is meant to be diluted depending on the type of grime you need to remove.

        Like some of the recent posts about some cleaners eating aluminum if left too long, this product also has some history about being overly aggressive in some situations.

        But really, I own a decent compressor and some blasting gear, and I do occasionally blast away at something over on the lawn beside my carport. I haven't done it live on one of my XSs, but it wouldn't be all that scary.
        Ken Talbot

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        • #5
          Insert Quarters

          I'm lucky to have a DIY car wash 1/2 mile away.
          "On-site Attendant" leaves at 5PM

          mro

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          • #6
            Y'know, with all the 'miracle' cleaners out there, I still haven't found anything that works all that well without some sort of drawback. Simple Green and it's imitators is probably about the best, but you do have to be careful with it and it won't do much with the baked-on stuff. Gunk and the other automotive cleaners are about as good as it gets for baked, but you'll need to get in there with a small stainless brush. If you want to live dangerously, there's always oven cleaner; that'll lift most anything, but it'll also eat the aluminum (and paint, chrome, etc) so the trick is getting it on only where you want it, how long to leave it on, and making sure you do get it all off.

            I have blasted assemblies; remove as much as you can, then mask openings, seals, etc with duct tape. Makes a mess, and getting the residue off can be a PITA...

            '78E original owner
            Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

            '78E original owner - resto project
            '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
            '82 XJ rebuild project
            '80SG restified, red SOLD
            '79F parts...
            '81H more parts...

            Other current bikes:
            '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
            '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
            '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
            Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
            Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

            Comment


            • #7
              Everything old is new again!!

              When I bought my G it had the same weeping CC tensioner issue and the front of the engine was rather cruddy. Not knowing how the aluminum would react to traditional methods of engine cleaning I tried several methods including using one of those new-fangled Italian steamers that promise to clean the chrome of a trailer hitch ball..... no luck.
              Then I resorted to an old 'tried but true' product...... Gunk engine degreaser. I bought the 'new' gel type that clings better to the surfaces, sprayed it on and let it sit there for a while to do it's magic. After getting the thick of it off by brushing it with a parts cleaning brush, I sprayed it again, let it sit, repeat,... you get the idea. After the second application and brushing... all the crud was off and it looked none worse for the wear. Now when I want to get any grime, from oil, road grime, road tar, etc..... when it needs a good thorough degreasing I know what to reach for.
              This worked just as well when I did the 750 FD mod and had to degrease everything for inspection, pre-assembly and lubing.
              Actually, the first thing I do to a newly acquired bike destined for restoration is to pressure wash it, Gunk it, and pressure wash it clean, really clean. I do have acces to a 2.6k psi pressure washer!!!!. With the 5 degree nozzle it will take a toenail clear off!!!!
              I've done three bikes this way with minimal effort (yeah, right!!) before tearing them down, most exposed parts were very clean..... no nitrile gloves required.
              Hope this helps.
              1980G Standard, Restored
              Kerker 4 - 1
              850 Rear End Mod
              2-21 Flashing LED Arrays on either side of license plate for Brake Light Assist, 1100 Lumen Cree Aux Lights,
              Progressive springs, Showa rear shocks
              Automatic CCT
              1980GH Special, Restored
              Stock Exhaust, New Handlebars, 1" Spacer in Fork Springs, Automatic CCT, Showa Rear Shocks
              '82 XJ1100 (Sold)
              Automatic CCT, RC Engineering 4 X 1 Exhaust, K&N Pods, #50 Pilot Jets, YICS Eliminator. Sorely missed.

              Comment


              • #8
                I used some AC coil cleaner on the 650 i cleaned. It worked great, but it does remove paint. Don't leave it on a long time either.
                1980 XS1100LG Midnight
                1991 Honda CBR1000F Hurricane


                "The hand is almost valueless at one end of the arm if there be not a brain at the other"

                Here's to a long life and a happy one.
                A quick death and an easy one.
                A pretty girl and an honest one.
                A cold beer and another one!

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                • #9
                  You can use spray on gasket remover and it'll leave aluminum clean and shiny or at least as shiny as it is under the grime. But beware, it'll take of paint as well as everything else. Also be sure to have a garden hose handy to wash it off and keep it off your skin and don't breath the fumes.

                  Geezer
                  Hi my name is Tony and I'm a bikeoholic.

                  The old gray biker ain't what he used to be.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    There is a new degreaser from gunk, that cleans and shines, but also turtle wax just came out with a new chrome and aluminun polish, that done a great job, better than "pig snot" or Flix. Later 'Dog

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Soak a rag with paint thinner and wipe it down to get the dried on oil off. you have to wipe it down with something else after that to get the oily film from the thinner off but it will get the dried on oil and dirt off.
                      Nathan
                      KD9ARL

                      μολὼν λαβέ

                      1978 XS1100E
                      K&N Filter
                      #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                      OEM Exhaust
                      ATK Fork Brace
                      LED Dash lights
                      Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

                      Green Monster Coils
                      SS Brake Lines
                      Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                      In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                      Theodore Roosevelt

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                      • #12
                        Soda blasting

                        Try soda blasting it. If it works good on our delicate carbs it will clean in between the fins and everything else just as well. If you have a good compressor you should be off to the races. Do it in the driveway then just rinse off the dust.
                        mack
                        79 XS 1100 SF Special
                        HERMES
                        original owner
                        http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6932d5df.jpg

                        81 XS 1100 LH MNS
                        SPICA
                        http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad305/mack-055/2.jpg

                        78 XS 11E
                        IOTA
                        https://youtu.be/wB5Jfbp6SUc
                        https://youtu.be/RaI3WYHSuWA



                        Have recovery trailer and shop if you breakdown in my area.
                        Frankford, Ont, Canada
                        613-398-6186

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                        • #13
                          Mr. Clean

                          And there you have it, just as I expected. A mix of old and new solutions.
                          I appreciate all your responses gentlemen.
                          If I had a set-up like yours Ken, I might give it a shot. But I'll experiment with some of the others. Geezers is one I never thought of.
                          The work goes on. Thanks again.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I have a product from Home Depot called Greased Lightning. Comes in a gallon jug. Don't get it on your hands, or it will peel the top layer off, but it works GREAT on any kind of oil, gime, or dirt you can think of. Unfortunately, you have to scrub it too. That means you need to get a brush into all the grooves, or you'll see spots you missed.

                            I've also used oven cleaner with good results. Just avoid getting it on the shiny painted parts (including the frame) or you'll see spots in the finish. I found that a few different products, used over the course of several different washes did the trick. I wash my bike about twice a month, so that gave me the chance to experiment, and finally get all the junk off. It seems that nothing is perfect, but it all comes off eventually.
                            1980 XS850SG - Sold
                            1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                            Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                            Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                            Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                            -H. Ford

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