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The side with the alternator will be more difficult if you want to put it into the new cover. Use caution. The three bolts holding the field coil should not be removed until you:
1. disconnect the alternator wires and remove the cover
2. remember the positioning of the stator within the cover and remove the stator
3. then remove the field coil.
The reason is because the space between the stator and field coil is small and if you unscrew those three screws, the field coil could fall against the stator windings and they are fragile.
Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
1978 XS1100E K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters Green Monster Coils SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
The valve cover, timing cover, and even the shift fork cover will not be any real issue. On the other side the clutch cover is no problem and you have been advised on the alternator cover, though I should think you could simply switch the covers with the coils in them if both work fine, but an electrical guru I am not.
On the side shown you have a few things there that are....complicated anyway. Directly above the shift fork cover is the starter cover in two pieces. The right side as you look at it is attached to the starter itself, so you need to pull the starter to remove the bolts holding it on. The left side is the bearing and cover for the starter end of the secondary shaft. So, to pull that your removing a bearing as well. Same goes for the shiney part on the middle drive there. May be safer to switch the entire middle drive out. JMO. I'm not a big fan of taking bearings form one hole they have lived in and parts they have meshed with and giving them a new hole with new parts to learn how to play with. Sometimes, they do not play well together.
Life is what happens while your planning everything else!
When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.
81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection
Previously owned
93 GSX600F
80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
81 XS1100 Special
81 CB750 C
80 CB750 C
78 XS750
The side with the alternator will be more difficult if you want to put it into the new cover. Use caution. The three bolts holding the field coil should not be removed until you:
1. disconnect the alternator wires and remove the cover
2. remember the positioning of the stator within the cover and remove the stator
3. then remove the field coil.
The reason is because the space between the stator and field coil is small and if you unscrew those three screws, the field coil could fall against the stator windings and they are fragile.
Why would you remove them? Just swap them with the cover, onto the engine it will be sitting on... They are all the same, so unless the alternator under the polished cover is dead, just use it!
Other than that, once the oil is drained, all the covers except the one directly connected to the starter are painless. They just unscrew and are a direct swap. Just make sure to celan the gasket surfaces (on the covers AND the bike) of all gasket material, and use some brake cleaner to remove all oil from the surfaces. Then use some RTV to make a new gasket and screw them on the new bike.
Last edited by CatatonicBug; 07-14-2010, 11:21 AM.
1980 XS850SG - Sold
1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).
Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
-H. Ford
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