Cam Chain Tensioner issues

[firemanstan7]

I know, I know...everyone is thinking, "another newb who didn't read the tech tips".

I assure you this is not the case.

I've read all the tips related to this and have had another issue pop up.

I did the whole adjust the cam chain tension, following both the manual and the tips closely and wouldn't you know, the engine ran smoother and quieter...until the second ride! It got so noisy I had to get it back to my garage immediately.

It now seems that my cam chain tensioner won't seat! I only backed the bolt as far as recommended and then tightened it back down with the correct torque, both for the bolt and the locknut but now it seems that the bolt won't stop on the shaft in the tensioner...it stays loose and I can basically turn it in with my fingers without finding the end! The locknut will actually back the bolt out.

Could my tensioner be shot, or simply the bolt stripped or worse...the cam chain needs to be replaced? I hope it's not the latter!

Thanks.

[Rev.Rick]

Sounds like the set screw is stripped. I have read of folks on here retapping the tensioner body or converting it over to a manual tensioner. Either way It amy be easier to find a good used one and replace it. Try Andreas Weiss. He had one he offered me a short while back.

[firemanstan7]

Thanks for the info.

Would it do any harm at this point to simply take out the set screw to see if it's stripped?

While I wait for a new tensioner, I still need to ride so I'd like to be able to make a temp fix at least.

[cywelchjr]

At least a couple of members have helicoiled that bolt when it stripped. I'm just not sure if it can be done without taking it off and disassembling it. But the helicoil may make it better than it was new as those new threads may be tougher.

[esw1104]

I stripped mine about a month ago.
I have re-tapped it and it works fine.
I did not have it stripped on all threads so just went up one size.

Removed from the bike and held it in a vise cleaned and reinstalled new bolt.

[motoman]

Would NOT risk riding it , short of at least fixing the stock tensioner. Best option is to get a self adjuster from the Venture Royal or V-max motor configuration. My original tensioner bolt would tighten and being housing became partially stripped, would not hold tight enough against shaft and get shoved back, likely on decell.....not a good thing! Changed it out last week for the self- adjuster. Now that chain always has tension, valve timing is always correct......solved an array of minor issues and motor is super-smooth at all rpm ranges with not even minor popping at muffler on decell.

[firemanstan7]

I guess I'm looking for the auto-tensioner! Anyone have a spare one around?

[DGXSER]

I do not have the autotensioner, but I have a couple of the stock ones that worked fine, just need the end caps or RTV or something in them. If your interested, it would be yours for shipping cost.

I have the auto type installed and it is quick and easy changeout. I think the prices may be dropping back to sane. When one of the members fisrt came up with the mod, all of them sold off ebay in a week or two and the price skyrocketed to insanity. Have not looked in months though.

[firemanstan7]

I'm definitely interested in one of those. I'll PM my info to you!

[skids]

At least a couple of members have helicoiled that bolt when it stripped. I'm just not sure if it can be done without taking it off and disassembling it. But the helicoil may make it better than it was new as those new threads may be tougher.

I have done one and with steel threads, I trust it. While you have it out and apart, check the tensioner slide for burrs and corrosion. I would turn the crank to the C mark before you remove the tensioner. I think you could remove the cap and have someone push in on the slide to keep the cam chain tight while you turn it to the C mark. If you feel piston/valve contact stop right there and prepare to loosen the cams to align the dots to the arrows on the cam bosses at TDC.