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Oil Cooler info required

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  • #16
    My machine had an oil cooler grafted into the oil delivery pipe when I first got her. The old girl had 34k miles on her, and the cooler looked like it had been there for quite a while. I've since removed it, but not because it was causing any problems with oil delivery, but because the oil lines going over the top of the motor are a bit of a PITA when it comes time to remove the valve cover.

    Thinking back on it I will say this, - it did seem to stress the lower banjo fitting a bit in terms of it's propensity to leak. Unless the crush washers were re-annealed every time the fitting was removed and reinstalled I would get a little puddle of oil. It doesn't seem to be as finicky about that fitting with the stock tube in place which to me seems to indicate that it does have to work a little harder to get the oil through with a cooler grafted in. Of course it was also pushing oil through 3/8" ID lines so that might have had something to do with it. It worked though, and it brought the engine temp down by around 20 degrees.

    As far as needing stainless steel lines like brakes - I don't think you've got any where near as much pressure on the oil lines as you do on the brake lines. Mine had regular 3/8" ID oil lines on it and they too worked fine.
    Last edited by dbeardslee; 07-10-2010, 08:08 AM.
    I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

    '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

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    • #17
      A pic of mine with my custom made hose holder. I have since removed it but have a couple of sets.

      "We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey." "

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