OK need help w/countershaft

[perurider]

Ok..got everything reground, but I can not get the countershaft to go back in. it keeps hitting the large gear on the other shaft that doesnt slide..what am I doing wrong!!?? Ive tried turning the rear wheel turning the shaft

[bikerphil]

You'll have to slide the middle drive gear over a bit and 1st. gear off of it's collar to maneuver the shaft part way in, then when it clears, slide those 2 gears back in place. It'll take a few tries, but you'll get it.

[CatatonicBug]

Phil is exactly right. I also use a phillips screwdriver as a lever to help lift/allign the end of the countershaft into the hole in the case. Just be patient, and wiggle things a lot, and it will eventually go.

[perurider]

Yup got it in...but.....the #2 shift fork fell out as it went in...can it (they) go in while the shaft is in?/( I am doing the on the centerstand.)or am I wasting my time(and what few patience I have) on trying to get it back in w/shaft in?

[CatatonicBug]

I have gotten the #1 fork in after the countershaft was installed, but I don't think the others can be installed that way. If you use a long screwdriver or a piece of coathanger wire as a replacement for the shift fork shaft, it allows you to move things around, but keep the forks where they should be. After the countershaft is in, set the forks where they should be, and remove the screwdriver or wire. Then, just slide the shift fork shaft into place.

[DGXSER]

From other post I think your past this point, but I have gotten all three in and out with the countershaft in place. But you do have to hold your mouth JUST so and whistle dixie in the exact right tone at the same time for that to happen. (in otherwords, it can happen, but takes alot of effort and luck.)

[Ivan]

Yup got it in...but.....the #2 shift fork fell out as it went in...can it (they) go in while the shaft is in?/( I am doing the on the centerstand.)or am I wasting my time(and what few patience I have) on trying to get it back in w/shaft in?

You can get all three in with the shaft installed, while the bike is on the centerstand, and you're laying in the muck on the garage floor. You will cuss, and you will bleed, but it can be done. The only thing I can suggest is to stay determined, because its a definitive exercise in man over machine.

[perurider]

I got it all put in last night, I hate to say but, beer is necessary to mellow out the frustration. and I rarely drink anything other than coca-cola. Anyway, I did leave out the kick start stuff. I wasnt taking it apart again. so I got the tranny pan on now, and after looking at the clutch friction plates am leaning towards getting new ones, metal discs are good(pretty sure) not warped anyway, some spots of blue I sanded with scotch brite pad(all I had) and checked them on our kitchen table. BUt the friction plates look to be thin. I need to find calipers to measure them. Anyone could tell me a good source for clutch would be great. thinking about painting the motor since its apart. and covers are off.

[TopCatGr58]

COngrats on getting it back together. Did you try running thru the gears shifting up and down, may need to slowly rotate the rear wheel while doing so.

For OEM type frictions, www.partsnmore.com has decent quality Vesrah brand for $5.00 a pop, about the best price you can find, aside from any deals on Ebay. Yep, you can pick up a decent inexpensive digital caliper at harbor freight for less than $20.00. While you're getting frictions, you should also put in NEW Springs...they get sprung surprisingly quickly when under compression, even just a few years old.

Hope you remembered the Locktite on the 3 torx screws for the countershaft bearing cover, and the other side large bolt!?

And be very careful with that star plate...and use a small mirror to verify that you get the clutch basket all the way onto the shaft and meshed with the oil pump idler gear teeth before torquing that large nut!

T.C.

[perurider]

oh ya, when I was taking off the large nut on clutch it was WAYYYY more than 51# I had to get a cheater bar and a LOT of a$$ to get it loose finally after it was loose the washer with the tabs on it (the one you need to unbend off the nut) tabs had got ripped off and one just bent to the left. and I got loctite on the 3 what other one needed it?? Thanks

[TopCatGr58]

The other countershaft securing bolt with the large head/washer design that's behind the clutch basket. IT gets torqued to around 50 lbs also IIRC, but has been known to come loose, so a little BLUE might provide a little insurance against that!
T.C.

[DGXSER]

Hey Peru,

Congrats on getting through one of the most frustrating and alchohol enhanced procedures known to man, putting those gears and shift forks back in.

A kitchen table may not tell you much on the plates. Glass is MUCH flatter. I use a window in my garage door and a feeler gage to check my clutch steels against. Harbor Freight sells a nice digital calipers for not much money. I bought one and use it all the time now. I wonder how I got along with out it now!

If all else fails, I have an ebay auction right now selling the entire clutch basket with frictions that I know are well within spec (almost new) and steels I verified to be good less than 2k miles ago maybe 3k at the most. Starting price is $10.

As to springs, I went to my local Yamarobbers shop and they ordered the HD springs for $14 total about 1-1/2 years ago. Probably about the same now.