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  • engine removal help!!!

    How do I remove the motor? I'm doing it bymyself so far and I have no centerstand. And how do I get the damn rubber u joint boot off and disconnect the drive shaft? I can't find anything in the search. Helpp I got the pressure washer readu to go so I can clean and paint
    -xs1100 special
    -wife
    -daughter

  • #2
    The rubber boot is held in place with springs on each end. The spring wraps around the boot and interlocks with itself. pull the one closest to the engine and slide the boot back toward the driveshaft. Pull the four bolts connecting the middle drive flange to the drive shaft u joint flange.

    Ive seen several methods used to get the engine out of the frame. If you have a good friend and some strapping material, this can make it a pretty simple job.
    Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

    When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

    81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
    80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


    Previously owned
    93 GSX600F
    80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
    81 XS1100 Special
    81 CB750 C
    80 CB750 C
    78 XS750

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    • #3
      Could you elaborate a little more on that plz. Wasn't there a post on how to do this?
      -xs1100 special
      -wife
      -daughter

      Comment


      • #4
        How to get it out of the frame? Typically you need to pull the valve cover off, and the oil filter cup off for clearance. Other than that, there is alot of ways. I was laid up when a couple local members Steppenwolf and Dbeardslee came over and pulled the engine out of mine for me. They put the movers straps under the engine one in front one in back and lifted the engine with their legs and pushed it out the side of the frame. We bought a furniture dolly to put it on. Just used the plastic wrapper they had on the dolly, layed it over the dolly and put the engine on it. Worked out great.

        Ive read some people lay the entire bike on its side, pull all the bolts and then lift the frame off the engine. Might be hard to do if you did not strip the bike down pretty good though.

        I know I have seen where some members lift the engine and put boards under it to slide it across to something else.

        The best method for you will depend if you have help and what you plan to do with it when out of the frame.
        Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

        When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

        81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
        80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


        Previously owned
        93 GSX600F
        80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
        81 XS1100 Special
        81 CB750 C
        80 CB750 C
        78 XS750

        Comment


        • #5
          No need to remove the valve covers. Remove the oil filter housingoff the motor is all that needs to come off the motor. Motor goes out the right side and back in same way.
          81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

          Comment


          • #6
            ive tried it once to remove the engine
            by laying the bike on its side, never again
            was a bugger lifting the bike up over the engine
            without scratching the frame or having the engine catch on the frame.

            if your doing it by yourself, the engine becomes much lighter and easier to move with the head removed, i also found it easier to remove the middle drive.
            pete


            new owner of
            08 gen2 hayabusa


            former owner
            1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
            zrx carbs
            18mm float height
            145 main jets
            38 pilots
            slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
            fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

            [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

            Comment


            • #7
              Remove all the weight you can before you do it: clutch cover and clutch, alternator, starter, middle drive, even the whole top end if you plan to rebuild or freshen it. Lighter and smaller are better. Leave on only what you need to get a grip on it.

              JMHO.

              Patrick
              The glorious rays of the rising sun exist only to create shadows in which doom may hide.

              XS11F (Incubus, daily rider)
              1969 Yamaha DT1B
              Five other bikes whose names do not begin with "Y"

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              • #8
                I pulled the oil filter housing for clearence then I stadled the bike, grabbed the cylynder with my left hand and the clutch cover area with my right and walked it out the right side a little at a time until I could get both hands on the same side to lift it to the floor. I put it back in the same way but in reverse of course. Tape or cover your frame or you will scratch it doing it yourself. I'm 6'4 and it was a bear but I didnt want to wait for help.... I suggest getting help. really it is pretty simple. good luck.
                gonzo ronzo.

                Bobbed 81 XS1100 special loud and proud

                Comment


                • #9
                  I've just finished R&Ring the engine in mine today.

                  Removed, tank, seat, side covers carbs and airbox, exhaust, horns, oil filter cup, oil pan, oil pump, battery. Take the 3 phillips head screws that hold the fuse box on and disconnect 3 connectors behind it that go to the alternator and pickup coils. Oh yea, take that damned ignition resistor off the bottom left of the upper frame or you'll break it. Throttle and clutch cables.

                  Take out the 2 short mount bolts just under the front of the case, one on each side. You'll need a small floor jack and a piece of 1x4 about 6" long to put under the engine to support it while you remove the 2 long mount bolts, one that also holds the foot pegs on and another that runs through 2 brackets at he front of the engine.

                  Those brackets need to come off too to give you more room to work with.

                  When I pulled mine out I just had a friend help me lift it out by hand, with gloves of course. Lift it up out of the mounts and twist it slightly to the right and get the driveline yoke out of the boot. Be very careful it's easily torn.

                  Turn the engine so it is in th frame sideways, cylinders to the right. 1 person on the right side steady the engine and just let it rest in the frame while the other comes around so both of you are on the right side.

                  You can then just lift it out with one of you on each side of the engine.

                  You said you didn't have a center stand. You'll need to get a couple of small jack stands or something like that to take it's place so the bike is good and stable.

                  Heh heh.....how's that....clear as mud right?

                  Oh yea, to reinstall..........reverse procedure

                  HAVE FUN......LOL.....

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                  • #10
                    I bought a 2-ton shop crane as a "loss leader" bargain at ~40% of the list price.
                    (It's only good for 2 tons with it's arm telescoped up fully short but even at 1/2 a ton at full extension it'll still lift anything I'd need to pick up.)
                    It's amazing how often that crane gets used, now that I've got it.
                    Fred Hill, S'toon
                    XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
                    "The Flying Pumpkin"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Not having a center stand kinda sucks.
                      Most plastic milk crates just happen to be the right height and size to slid the engine out onto all by yourself. Have removed several this way but always with a center stand.

                      No stand and no help I'd lay it over on it's side and lift the frame off.
                      In addition to removing all the obvious stuff, remove both wheels too.


                      mro

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                      • #12
                        Every time I removed a motor the bike was picked clean first. The oil filter cover has to come off to get the motor out. Covering the frame sounds like a good idea. We put some sheets out in the grass and rolled the frame on it's side and popped the motor out. it's a really tight fit. If you're going to remove the head, why not do it before you take it out. That would really free up some space.
                        79 XS11 Special (Lazarus)
                        80 XS850 Special (Old Faithful)
                        80 XS11 Standard sorta stock (Beatrice)
                        79 DT 100

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                        • #13
                          Scott, check out the photos of engine replacement in this photo group from my space and you will see how to do it alone. Removal is reverse but works the same way. With no main stand make sure the bike is secure ether by tie downs or other method. The carbs, air box, horn, oil filter bowl, all engine to frame wiring, mounting bolts and anything else that is in the engines space needs to be removed.
                          Being that your doing removal use a suitable board to protect the oil pan and use a bottle jack to raise the engine to get the slide boards between the engine and the frame.
                          Rob


                          http://cid-7decae8edaaf71ca.photos.l...odified%20Bike
                          KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN

                          1978 XS1100E Modified
                          1978 XS500E
                          1979 XS1100F Restored
                          1980 XS1100 SG
                          1981 Suzuki GS1100
                          1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
                          1983 Honda CB900 Custom

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                          • #14
                            In lieu of a centerstand, I bought a couple small jack stands for $15 at O'reilley's. They work well.

                            The easiest way to have the engine out is to hire it done. Its really a two man job, so help is always nice. Other than that, I use some "one bys" or thin wood. I start by getting the wiring and cables loose, then the driveshaft loose. Finally I take the back and lower front mounts loose. The rear has the long bolt and the pegs in it as well, so just a couple more bolts and the rear peg brackets come off, which is nice to have out of the way. Then I use a prybar or large screwdriver to lift the rear of the engine above the mounting brackets and shove some pieces of one by in there. I like to be able to get the whole engine up on a piece that rests across both frame rails, but sometimes, its too much of a pain. Just make sure the engine can't fall back into the frame. That's the hardest part for me.

                            Then the long bolt across the front uppers can come out and pry the front up. More one bys to hold it up.

                            Next is tricky by yourself. I put some card board down to protect the engine from the floor. Turn the engine so the middle drive is pointing out the left side of the frame and the cylinder head is out the right, partially. Then I just wiggle and turn until it kind of rolls out the right side on to the floor. Its a lot of work and strain for one guy, and will hurt your toes if you aren't careful. Once the engine is laying there, most likely upside down, then horse it around how you want it, and herniate your self if you need it on a bench.

                            Like I said, its really a two man job, so it may be easier to spring for some barley pop to get a bit of help.
                            Ich habe dich nicht gefragt.

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                            • #15
                              Good idea mro

                              I think that way saves alot of potential back injury and engine falls.

                              John


                              Originally posted by mro View Post
                              Not having a center stand kinda sucks.
                              Most plastic milk crates just happen to be the right height and size to slid the engine out onto all by yourself. Have removed several this way but always with a center stand.

                              No stand and no help I'd lay it over on it's side and lift the frame off.
                              In addition to removing all the obvious stuff, remove both wheels too.


                              mro
                              John is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)

                              Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
                              '81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
                              Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine

                              "Not all treasure is silver and gold"

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