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Fuel Leak - what am I missing - done it all(?)

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  • #16
    There was a post some time ago that mentioned 're-inflating' smooshed floats by putting them inside the fluid recovery bottle for a brake bleeder, and putting a finger over one end, while pumping up the vacuum with the brake bleeder. Depending on how badly squished they are, it might pop them back out. For what they cost it's sure worth a try. JAT
    I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

    '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

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    • #17
      Viton Tipped Needles and Plastic Floats

      Hi Mark, I just replaced my fuel valves with XV920 needles and seats, also Mike's XS plastic floats. Best decision I've made on the carbs. Left the fuel on for 3 days (accidently) and didn't leak a drop. Everything was a drop in fit with only small adjustments to the float height. Just my $.02.
      1979XS1100SF
      K&N's and drilled airbox
      Jardine 4in1
      Dunlop Elite 3's
      JBM slide diaphragms
      142.5 main jets
      45 pilot jets
      T.C.'s fusebox & SOFA
      750/850 FD mod.
      XV 920 Needle Mod.
      Mike's XS plastic floats set at 26mm
      Venture Cam Chain Tensioner

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      • #18
        you can always solder up
        pin holes in a brass float to get you out of trouble
        or until you get a replacement.
        pete


        new owner of
        08 gen2 hayabusa


        former owner
        1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
        zrx carbs
        18mm float height
        145 main jets
        38 pilots
        slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
        fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

        [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

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        • #19
          Thanks for all the replies

          I ended up ordering the plastic floats from Mike's and the XV920 seats from Z1.

          Now that that's taken care of, anyone have any mufflers and RH side tank emblem in good shape for sale?

          Mark
          Last edited by psifactor99; 07-06-2010, 05:57 AM.
          79 XS11 SF - 30+ year owner

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          • #20
            '79 Needles/Valves/Floats Changeout In-progress-Question

            Thanks to all that have provided information so-far. Very helpful and a time saver!

            Well, I've got the plastic floats and XV920 fuel valves and the viton tipped needles ready to go into the carbs. I've taken measurements on the original "factory set" brass floats and they were actually NOT in spec. From the left on the seat: #1-23.0, #2-24.0, #3-24.0, #4-24.0. The bike seemed to run great at those float heights. What's up with that? So much for specs.

            I put the needle/valve/plastic float in #1 and to get the measurement to read 25.5 as "dbeardslee" has it, I bent the tang and the float sits in the mount at a slant, unlike the brass floats which rode kind of "level".

            Comments?
            79 XS11 SF - 30+ year owner

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            • #21
              Brass floats

              I you have brass floats with pin holes but otherwise OK, you can fix them very easy. First, dry the float, two days in the sun pin holes face down or hair dryed heat and one day for vapor to clear. If you don't want to soider, you can use a small amount of 3M two part gas tank seal after a light sanding of pinhole spot.
              1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
              1980 XS1100 Special
              1990 V Max
              1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
              1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
              1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
              1974 CB750-Four



              Past/pres Car's
              1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8

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              • #22
                I put the needle/valve/plastic float in #1 and to get the measurement to read 25.5 as "dbeardslee" has it, I bent the tang and the float sits in the mount at a slant, unlike the brass floats which rode kind of "level".
                How much angle to you have on the tabs? Wire is going around the tab, right? Did you install them with the aluminum washer underneath? Got any pics? I have to bend the tabs a little in mine - I would estimate that the end of the tab is about 1/8" below 'level'. Also, don't forget to set the small stop tabs while you're at it - it's more important on the plastic ones than the brass.
                I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

                Comment


                • #23
                  Plastic Floats sitting at an angle (at 25.5mm)

                  Yes, I did install the the valve with the provided washer and the wire from the needle is around the float tab. It's just that the float sits in the mount at a slant of maybe 3-5 degrees just eye-balling it. Definitely not level like the brass floats were. I measured at the highest point of the float (since it was at an angle).

                  But you have yours set at 25.5 and it runs good for you - right?

                  I have to set the stops also. What would you recommend on that? I have a Clymer shop manual and I don't remember any words on that (at work and can't take a look).

                  I am hoping to hit the sweet spot the first time and not have to dismount the carbs again.
                  Last edited by psifactor99; 07-13-2010, 11:10 AM.
                  79 XS11 SF - 30+ year owner

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                  • #24
                    I set my stops so the valve will fully open, but not a lot past that. It just needs to be set so the float can't drop down far enough (in the installed orientation) to come into contact with the bowl - they can get stuck against it. On the valves, I'm thinking that fuel flowing around them will tend to straighten them out. I never checked mine for 'straight up and down-ness'- I knew they were the right seats for the valves so I just put 'em in. I misunderstood what you originally said - I was thinking you were talking about the float tab being at an angle. The seats for the XV920 valves are slightly larger than the XS seats, so maybe that's why the look a little crooked. I wouldn't worry about it. 25.5 to 26 works pretty good on mine. I've had it set as low as 27mm and as high as 24 and find the sweet spot to be right about the factory setting. Devilish clever those Mikuni engineers .
                    I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                    '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

                    Comment

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