To Blink or not to Blink, that is my signals

[Rasputin]

I am confused as to why I am having this signal light issue, any help appreciated.
I have a 78E with a vetter fairing on it. When the bike is not running the signal lights will work perfectly. It has a brand new battery and I have just installed TC's fuseblock as well.
Here is the problem: once it is running if I switch it to the left signal nothing happens, idle or running down the road for 20 miles makes no difference. If I switch it to the right signal light it works fine. Now once the right signal light has been used the left will also work for the duration of the ride. So both work great after using the right one once. Now if I turn the bike off for whatever reason, it goes back to the same where the left won't work until the right flashes at least one time. I have been getting on the bike and hitting the right flasher for one blink and then ride on because they will work great then. Any Ideas as to why in the world it behaves this way?

[XJOK2PLAY]

That sounds like a GREMLIN!

I've got a Vetter 4 on the XJ, and in the past, had kinda similar problem...

the RH side flashes perfect regardless. LH side... not so perfect.

I developed cracking in the epoxy of my stator once, and it caused the LH side to totally quit flashing, yet the RH side still would.
Replaced the stator ring... now it flashes on the LH side, as long as the rpm's are up above 1600 at a stop, or if I don't have the brake lights on at a stop.

I've also had some connection issues w/ the fairing connector down on the LH side.

But as to why yours works like it does... gotta be a Gremlin!
Has anybody given you a Gremlin bell yet?
Maybe that'll fix it???

[TopCatGr58]

Okay, thru your processes, you can get the LH side to work, so that eliminates both the flasher relay as well as bad grounds. What you are "playing" with is the signal switch itself. The wires can get corroded and even come "partially" unsoldered. The reed switch wires can get bent or corroded also. I would start there, taking the switch assembly apart and checking for loose wires, excessively bent reeds in the switch, corrosion and such to find and hopefully Xhorcise your demons!!!!
T.C.

[Rasputin]

Thanks TC I will check into that. The switch was a little stiff so I used some penetrating oil and some white lith grease on it and now it moves easily. I did not take it apart though, so that will be in order later today. Hopefully that will fix it. It may also help with the self cancelling not working too (which I forgot to add to my OP)

[TopCatGr58]

More thoughts

Do you have the OEM flasher relay or aftermarket?? IF OEM, then the self cancelling feature should work..provided you have OEM speedometer, and the self cancelling unit is working. IF you have aftermarket flasher relay, then the self cancelling feature is lost! If you have aftermarket speedo, it won't have the special reed switch to send the signal to the cancellor, again, won't work.

T.C.

[Rasputin]

Yes I have the OEM flasher and Speedo. I have a spare of each as well so i may need to change them out to have the self cancel work. Got the parts just need to find the one that needs changing.

[rpgoerlich]

Okay, thru your processes, you can get the LH side to work, so that eliminates both the flasher relay as well as bad grounds. What you are "playing" with is the signal switch itself. The wires can get corroded and even come "partially" unsoldered. The reed switch wires can get bent or corroded also. I would start there, taking the switch assembly apart and checking for loose wires, excessively bent reeds in the switch, corrosion and such to find and hopefully Xhorcise your demons!!!!
T.C.

+1 on this as I've repaired/re-soldered quite a few.

[Rickrod3]

I too have had to resolder a wire on the left signal.
Its easy to check.
Little bit of a pita to resolder.
As I recall I would push the wire in or wiggle it and the signal would work maybe when you operate the other side its enough to make contact JAT.

[fredintoon]

Thanks TC I will check into that. The switch was a little stiff so I used some penetrating oil and some white lith grease on it and now it moves easily. I did not take it apart though, so that will be in order later today. Hopefully that will fix it. It may also help with the self cancelling not working too (which I forgot to add to my OP)

Hi Rasputin,
"moving easily" is only one step on a long journey.
My signal switch was stiff and while each side flashed they wouldn't stop doing it except by switching to the other side. Most annoying. And unsafe. So fizz in the penetrating oil then the white grease just like you.
No difference except that it moved easier.
What worked for me was to completely dismantle the signal switch, wash each part squeaky clean with contact cleaner then reassemble the switch using little dabs of dielectric grease on all the moving parts.
Now the switch works as it should.

[Rasputin]

Fred I actually did the penetrating fluid and the whit lith before posting the first time. I will definetly be pulling it apart for a thourough check and clean. If that does not do the trick I will start replacing parts and see how that goes. I have everything from extra ignition swithches to guages to shocks so i should have what I need to fix this puppy. Was too busy riding today to spend time on it , but it is easier to push now. I will tear it apart ASAP asthe rest of the bike is astonishing in its performance after coming straight out of the garage.