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Rear brake issues, it works but not really....

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  • #1

    Rear brake issues, it works but not really....

    The back brake on my '79 Standard works, but not particularly well. When I step on the pedal I get back pressure and the bike then slows somewhat, but it does not grab and could never lock up the wheel. I do not know if it would bring the bike to a complete stop.

    The rear master and caliper have been cleaned and rebuilt. They seem to be functioning properly. The rear brake pads are relatively new. The system is properly bled. It has a new steel braid brake line (which is a touch too long, but no radical bends or kinks). It seems to be an issue with the brake pad that is NOT pushed by the piston. Like maybe something is missing that makes it too movable so the disk never gets properly pinched.

    My front brakes are working very well and I really don't use the rear brake that often, but I would like it to work right so I know it is there in the event of front brake failure. Has anyone faced this issue? What should I be looking for?

    Patrick
    The glorious rays of the rising sun exist only to create shadows in which doom may hide.

    XS11F (Incubus, daily rider)
    1969 Yamaha DT1B
    Five other bikes whose names do not begin with "Y"
    Tags: None
  • #2
    If you remove the capliper and push the piston in and then put it back on the bike you should be able to move the entire caliper back and forth a short distance, if you can't you need to take apart the sliding bolt part and clean it up or replace it.

    I suspect that the issue is that the bolt is rusted and now allowing the caliper to slide and center over the rotor...

    The parts in question are parts 6,7,and 8 on this fishe....http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partim...7522,5,0,sport
    1979 xs1100 Special -
    Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power

    Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.

    Originally posted by fredintoon
    Goes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
    My Bike:
    [link is broken]

    Comment

    • #3
      Well at least your work some! I just cant get mine to bleed no matter what I do! Good luck!
      Nathan
      KD9ARL

      μολὼν λαβέ

      1978 XS1100E
      K&N Filter
      #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
      OEM Exhaust
      ATK Fork Brace
      LED Dash lights
      Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
      Green Monster Coils
      SS Brake Lines
      Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

      In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

      Theodore Roosevelt

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      • #4
        I used a power bleeder to bleed mine, Nate. It is a wondrous invention. I took the front brakes from empty system to bled and working inside of 20 minutes. The back was even quicker.
        The glorious rays of the rising sun exist only to create shadows in which doom may hide.

        XS11F (Incubus, daily rider)
        1969 Yamaha DT1B
        Five other bikes whose names do not begin with "Y"

        Comment

        • #5
          When I bleed XS brakes I start with a power bleeder to get fluid into the entire system. Once I've got fluid, I do it the old fashioned way. Pump the brakes up, hold them, and crack the bleeder valve quickly. You only need about 1/4 turn, but you need to do it fast enough that you don't allow air back into the system. A little piece of clear tubing on the bleeder valve helps too. It allows you to see if any air is coming out of the bleeder valve, and also keeps you from squirting brake fluid all over the place. If you didn't use tubing when you were bleeding, you might have contaminated the pads which can also give you coaster brakes. My $.02.
          I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

          '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

          Comment

          • #6
            Wow, that was too easy. The bolt was rusty. Now it is shiny and I have rear brakes. I still don't know that they will lock up the wheel, but they will stop the bike. I don't want the wheel locking up anyway...

            Thanks, Psyco.

            Patrick
            The glorious rays of the rising sun exist only to create shadows in which doom may hide.

            XS11F (Incubus, daily rider)
            1969 Yamaha DT1B
            Five other bikes whose names do not begin with "Y"

            Comment

            • #7
              You should be able to lock the rear wheel if everything is working as it should. BTW, if you have some brake caliper grease to put on that sliding bolt and its rubber boot it will help to prevent it from freezing up again, you only need a light coating.
              1979 xs1100 Special -
              Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power

              Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.

              Originally posted by fredintoon
              Goes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
              My Bike:
              [link is broken]

              Comment

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