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Don't forget the Plastex. I just redid another set, and in the past I've used RTV and duct tape to close the access holes. That takes 24 hours for the RTV to cure, and is really a temporary solution. Plastex looks to be a much better alternative - easier and WAY faster. You just sprinkle the plastex powder around the hole, drip the bonding agent onto it, and 20 minutes later it's ready for a twist tie (for added grip on the wire) and reinstallation. It's a permanent solution, and seems to be just the ticket for this application. I'm finding 1001 ways to use this stuff - truly incredible.
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I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines -
Ever try 2 part epoxy? I would try that before the RTV...'79 XS11 F
Stock except K&N
'79 XS11 SF
Stock, no title.
'84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws
"What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~ -
Yup. That stuff takes a while to cure too. Plastex turns into, well, plastic - in about 20 minutes. The fine powder also gets into the cracks better. Not to mention the other stuff you can fix with it. I just repaired a slotted side cover with one side of the slot gone. I made a mold with the molding bar, and made a new part. Took about 30 minutes start to finish, and it's easily as strong as the original. If you really want to do it up right, you could even use the molding bar an reform the coil as per original - try that with epoxy
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I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake linesComment
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Are you doing the new wires in old coils mod?I have been looking for the inner spark plug wires to complete the mod.The outer wires i use have the caps built into the wires-so much easier and looks nicer.1980 XS1100 SG
Inline fuel filters
New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
160 mph speedometer mod
Kerker Exhaust
xschop K & N air filter setup
Dynojet Recalibration kit
1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installedComment
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Yes. I thought about using the automotive connectors, but it turned out the caps were OK, so I went with them. These coils still had the outer sheath, so I moved them to the new wires. I'm convinced that sheath is the reason more people don't have trouble with 30 year old wires - a little extra protection never hurtAre you doing the new wires in old coils mod?. I just use regular old copper core 7mm auto wires. The last one's I bought were in a universal 4-banger set - $10, and there's all kinds of ends in there. I use the same wires with mikes green coils, and they work fine.
I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake linesComment
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I might have to get some of this stuff. I keep seeing post of things you do with it and it seems worth the buy!Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore RooseveltComment
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The price has come down on it too. When I bought the kit it was around $30. Now I think it's about half that. I'm going to have to get some more powder and the liquid - even cheaper on the reloads. I think this stuff kind of works the way PVC cement works. You put the powder on, and I think the liquid makes it all 'melt' together. It's definitely not just super glue and powder - good stuff. Gotta be careful about getting the liquid on paint, though.
I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake linesComment
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Yeah I can see the liquid being a pretty strong solvent and melting away your paint.Originally posted by dbeardslee View PostNathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore RooseveltComment
Comment