in the front of the engine between where the exaust comes out of the engine theres a little drain spout type thing that is leaking oil any way to stop the leak ? tired of being covered in it while rideing
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
proably talked about
Collapse
X
-
Cct
Cam Chain Tensioner. Beware messing with it without prior knowledge of how it works can lead to bent valves!!!!
Do a search as there is a number of threads and hours of reading available and they did it better than I can.Last edited by jmnjrpa; 06-03-2010, 04:23 PM.'81 1100 MNS - "Midnight XSpress"
Original except:
120 mains outer cylinders - 125 mains inner cylinders - Ceramic headers - Powder coated pipes, covers calipers, and MC's
4 pods - Air box gutted--E3 Plugs - High Back seat - Grooved out swing arm - SS brake lines
Fork brace - 160 speedo - Auto CCT
All gold paint and chrome replaced with GOLD plate
"STUPID is Forever" Ron White.
Contact me by PM -I don't deal with stupid anymore.
Big John
-
look for cam chain tensioner....
There are three places they can leak:
1. At the base, where the thing attaches to the motor, there is a gasket there but it can leak. Fix is to replace the gasket\use RTV
2. On the left side as your looking at it, where the bolt and jam nut enter the tensioner housing, there is an o-ring in there that can get torn/flattened/worn out. Fix is to replace the o-ring
3. On the very "front" end there is a rubber type plug in the end that very often leaks. Fix is to remove, clean and then replace using generous amounts of RTV.
Both 1 and 3 require the removal of the tensioner housing from the engine, make sure you read up - you want to turn the engine by hand clockwise to the "C" mark on the timing plate before you remove it, and then re-set the tensioner, install, loosen the set bolt, tighten the bolt and jam nut, and then turn the engine over by hand just to be sure the chain didn't slip. Make sure to pay attention to the bold, bent valves can occur if the timing chain slips!
Also a lot of folks have switched out the manual adjuster for an automatic type from the v-max or venture V-4's. I believe they are less likely to leak and are automatic, but I haven't done that myself.1979 xs1100 Special -
Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power
Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.
Originally posted by fredintoonGoes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
[link is broken]
Comment
-
You are looking at the cam chain tensioner. They leak.
Use the search button on the bar above and do a search for "leaking cam chain tensioner" you will find plenty of information the problem.
Just be very careful about just pulling the tensioner to seal it up. There is a set procedure to keep from bending a bunch of valves. That is covered in there as well.
That procedure is coming up real soon on my bike as well.
I need to type faster. again.RIP Whiskers (Shop Boss) 25+yrs
"It doesn't hurt until you find out no one is looking"
Everything on hold...
Comment
-
If you do have to remove the tensioner, make sure the bike is on the centerstand. Removing it on the side stand may allow the chain to fall off the crank sprocket to the left side of the bike. EZ fix for a leak out of the front is to clean all the oil off and load a gob of RTV in the end. No need to remove anything. If the leak persists, then the o ring and/or base gasket is at fault.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
Comment
-
theres a little drain spoutI think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines
Comment
-
THERE ARE NO EXPERTS WORKING AT MOTORCYCLE SHOPS!!!
These bikes are older than most of the "Experts" that work as "Technicians" now. A quick fix for the leak is use brakeclean to degrease the area, and use a GOOD RTV to seal up the end that should have a plug in it. ten minutes and about $10 for everything you need. Do a search on motorcycle shop repairs BEFORE you take your bike in.Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
Comment
-
After reading the shop horror stories many have posted, if I were not "handy" I would seriously consider throwing a little money and a lunch at another forum member that lives near by before taking the bike to any shop.
If you update your member info with your location and post that your looking for help I'll bet you'll find another - more experienced - member nearby that would be willing to help you out. It will probably be much cheaper, you'll make a new friend, your bike won't come back all screwed up, and you might even learn something if you want to.
If you consider yourself "handy" then you really can do it yourself, it sound like a big deal but as long as you read some of the older threads on what to do, take your time, follow the directions, and turn it over by hand before cranking with the starter you'll be fine. There is a lot of knowledge and support on this forum!1979 xs1100 Special -
Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power
Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.
Originally posted by fredintoonGoes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
[link is broken]
Comment
-
Definitely!! DO NOT take your bike to a "mechanic"!! They won't know what they're looking at, and will likely cause more problems than were there to begin with, then charge you an arm and a leg to do so.
The advice and guidance here an literally get your through ANYTHING your bike might need to have done to it. Just take your time, read, and ask questions if you get stuck. You will save a TON of money, and feel a huge sense of satisfaction when you're done.1980 XS850SG - Sold
1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).
Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
-H. Ford
Comment
-
I dread the day I have to dig into the head and cam area (and I am sure I will end up in there this winter if not sooner), but I know the advice from this board will help greatly!Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
Comment
-
I mentioned the fact that I was working on a 79XS1100 to a younger guy that was working in a bike shop and I had to look over my shoulder real quick to see what he was looking at. Then it occured to me that the thousand mile stare was because he didn't have any idea what motorcycle I was talking about.
If I really had to rely on one I would stay away from the bike shops unless the guy has a good bit of grey in his hair. Even then......RIP Whiskers (Shop Boss) 25+yrs
"It doesn't hurt until you find out no one is looking"
Everything on hold...
Comment
-
Well as for shop repairs bug recently came up to canton and fixed my bike, rework the second gear in te tranny and am very glad i went that way... Thanks again bug i own you big time... Next trip lunch is on me.... Bike is riding better then ever... :d:d:d:d:d1982 xj1100j
Comment
-
paint is a good thing...
but please keep in mind that you need to get it running good, First.
if you rebuild:
carbs, fuse box, Forks, brake master cylinder and caliphers,
pick-up coils, coils, TCI resolder, and all is 100% running condition.
then is when you want to tear down for paint.
because then if (when) you have an issue with the bike it will be a minor one.
not 12 things all ganging up on you frustrating the hell out of you.
so please, use caution and look through tech tips and see what issues
your model is known for having.
there are lots and lots of hours of reading here all containing alot of very helpful information.
so please use the search option to see what's allready been covered.
We all are in this together and we all enjoy these bikes.
but we will have a dificult time helping you with 16 boxes of bike parts from 1000 miles away.
I hope we can help you keep your bike "flying" down the road.
MindWebs1979 XS1100SF Special.78 E motor/carbs, Jardine 4-2 exhaust, XS Green coils, Corbin seat, S.S. Brake lines, Hard cases, Heated grips.
2012 FJR1300 Gen 2. Heli bar risers, R-gaza crash bars, mccruise cruise control.
(2)2008 WR250R. Because kids outgrew others.
2007 Suzuki V-Strom 1000. (Just added 2024) pre-crashed.
1975 Kawasaki S1 250. My first bike. Still have it. NO I'm not selling it!!
Most bike problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!
Comment
Comment