here are my renthal bars. they are great except they vibrate between 80 and 90... i need to fill them with some rubber to move the vibration up some...
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
renthal bars...
Collapse
X
-
renthal bars...
" She'll make point five past lightspeed. She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid. I've made a lot of special modifications myself. "
79 xs11 standard
xs pods, Kerker 4-1, zrx1200r carbs mikesxs coils 35k voltz of power!!!
8mm msd wires
tkat fork brace...
Fox shocks...
mikes650 front fender
led's gallore...
renthal bars
gold valve emulators
vmax tensioner
Rifle fairingTags: None
-
Originally posted by yamahansolo View Posthere are my renthal bars. they are great except they vibrate between 80 and 90... i need to fill them with some rubber to move the vibration up some...
slow down, then the bars won't vibrate and you'll get less tickets.
Not an option?
What worked for me was this:- mix up a slurry of lead shot and RTV compound, pour it in and let it set.
If you think filling the bar end to end makes it too heavy, poke a 12ga shotshell plastic wad down the bar (it fits real good) as a filler stop each side.Last edited by 81xsproject; 05-30-2010, 04:20 PM.Fred Hill, S'toon
XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
"The Flying Pumpkin"
-
I did the same as Fred - filled bars entirely with 'BBB" shot & then filled the ends with silicone to seal it all in. My bars are the buck horns - made then really heavy & hopefully less vibration. I did this right away when I got the bike & new bars so I don't have any comparison but the extra weight must help out somehow. I already had the BBB's & silocone so no cost. - Dan'81 XS1100 LH - Midnight Special - been lookin' a long time for this one.
1179 big bore kit, 80SG motor
Rebuilt head, valves
TC Bros Forward Controls (Brass Pegs)
Tkat Fork Brace
T.C. Spade Fuse Box
Dyna Coils & wires
Mikesxs shocks,controls,& bars (special)
ISO grips with stelleto ends
4 into 1 black Bassani exhaust
Bridgestone Spitfires
Tuned by Tinman905
& a will to keep it.
Comment
-
Originally posted by ManitoulinLad View PostI did the same as Fred - filled bars entirely with 'BBB" shot & then filled the ends with silicone to seal it all in. My bars are the buck horns - made then really heavy & hopefully less vibration. I did this right away when I got the bike & new bars so I don't have any comparison but the extra weight must help out somehow. I already had the BBB's & silocone so no cost. - Dan
um, not quite the same.
I used the shotshell wads as internal plugs to make cast-in-place bar weights from a lead shot and rubber matrix.
As bar snakes work through resilience and bar weights work through adding mass, I reckoned that a combo would really work.
You poured your bars full of loose shot and plugged the ends with silicone to make what is in effect a long skinny Deadblow Mallet.
Deadblows work great so Deadblow bars should too.
You may have guessed that I did my 'bars like this because I am too cheap to squander $40 on chromed bar weights.
But what about using 5/8" rock anchor bolts?
Shove one down each end of the 'bar and tighten the nut.
Even if you spend the big bucks on stainless nuts, two rock anchors won't cost $40, eh?Last edited by fredintoon; 06-01-2010, 11:43 AM.Fred Hill, S'toon
XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
"The Flying Pumpkin"
Comment
-
If I had to guess, I would say the lead shot + RTV method would probably work the best. Not only do you get the mass to lower the resonate frequency of the bars (aka: buzz), but the lead is supported in a rubber matrix that will allow them to vibrate a bit and absorb additional vibration from the bars. I might have to try that with my stock bars...-- Clint
1979 XS1100F - bought for $500 in 1989
Comment
Comment