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clutch question i have read all the tips but cant get it right?

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  • #1

    clutch question i have read all the tips but cant get it right?

    ok i have read the tech tip and here is whats happing.

    #1 new friction plates
    #2 checked steel plates cleaned up
    #3 all spings in spec.
    checked acuator, 3 ball barings in place and fine.

    thrust washer #2 is up against clutch boss all plates and steel in place.
    and seated.

    #4 only thing i see is that the thrust washer closest to the oil pump gear looks thinner then the bigger diameter thrust washer.

    i know that one is smaller and one is bigger, but are they about the same thickness? the inner one is like a copper collor and sayes this side toward sping, that doesnt seem right to me, but someone was in this bike, ie new crank case gasket, missing cam stop pin and gear, and miss match clutch spings, i have got all matching now.

    ok problem is with clutch basket on and star plate on i go to install crank case cover and i have the acuator in the right position, about 4 oclock.
    i have cable loose up top.
    o screw in untill it tuches and back off 1/4 but i have to much slop in cable and its new, so i have to screw in untill screw is about half way into the nut.

    it seems like the acuator screw has to go way in before it disengages the clutch and before i can take any slack out of cable.

    botton line i have to screw the acuator screw in along ways or i got slop in the cable and the acuator.

    i dint replace the steel plates but added on and it made the screw worse like the nut is bairly on.
    If the thrust washer is to thin would that be a problem along with worn steel plates? if i do the 1/4 thing there is so much slack in cable i cant take it out up top? iam at my wits ends lol.

    also i dont see any oring seal in the end of my acuator screw like in manual? could the acuator screw be to short?

    please help
    Last edited by jmcmillan40; 05-28-2010, 12:19 AM.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Too short, not likely...

    Typically, if you add an extra steel then the actuator screw ends up having to be a few more turns in... Can you get your clutch to disengage?
    '79 XS11 F
    Stock except K&N

    '79 XS11 SF
    Stock, no title.

    '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
    GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

    "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

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    • #3
      yes it will but not right

      when i pull clutch in that disengaged right
      yes i can get it to disengage but i have to screw in screw really far to make contact. then i back of like you are suppost to.
      at that ajustment donw below it makes my ajustment up top to were i only have to pull the clutch lever in a little then it disengages, if i ajust the lever up top further out then its harder to disengage.

      iam use to ajusting down below with in spec
      then up top ajusting to were the clutch lever up top has about 1/4 of play and is takes some muscle to pull in. and disengages shortly after yo pull in the lever.

      its very soft up top now in order to get it to disengage, when i pull clutch handle in, its at the handle bar like it should be but its soft and i only have to let it out about 3/8 to 1/2 inch, it should be set to diseengage at the top not close to the handle bar, if i ajust it out to give the handle ie clutch more furmness and releasing more at the top its harder to shift.

      i would think if the acuator dint have to be screwed in so far i would have more controle with the cluch lever i should not have to ajust clutch screw at handle way out, on a new cable.

      DOES ANYONE HAVE A PIC OF THE THRUST WASHER CLOSEST TO THE OIL GEAR?

      ps: i just looked at the extra pate pictures and the first thrust waser is thicker and different that mine i belive that the person before me put what every he had in, its got a little play and its coper color not steel. that would have to cause a preblem there is not alot of tollerence in there and every bit of thickness counts right if that was a little thicker wouldnt it help? of would it make it worse?
      i cant beleive this guy, no cam stop no cam gear, 2 clutch spings rong size and now rong thrust washer.

      also i dont think i needed the extra plate becuase i am not slipping?
      and i did notice that the extra plate as all those littlr dots on it and my other existing steel plates those holes/dots are wore down alot more that the plate i picked up?
      Last edited by jmcmillan40; 05-28-2010, 10:55 AM.

      Comment

      • #4
        Originally posted by jmcmillan40 View Post
        when i pull clutch in that disengaged right
        yes i can get it to disengage but i have to screw in screw really far to make contact. then i back of like you are suppost to.
        at that ajustment donw below it makes my ajustment up top to were i only have to pull the clutch lever in a little then it disengages, if i ajust the lever up top further out then its harder to disengage.
        I'm having a hard time understanding what your saying but this sounds right to me, aside from your screw maybe being "further in" due to the strange washer. If I adjust my cable "tight" then my clutch disengages fully in the first 1/2" or so of travel. You can adjust where you want the release point by adjusting the slack in the cable.

        As for harder or softer that part doesn't make any sense to me, the clutch pull is determined by the thickness of the clutch stack and the size of the springs you put in, it shouldn't mater where in the lever travel your at, your still compressing the same springs..... and it will be "harder" then before because of the extra steel you put in, as well as having new springs which are probably stiffer then the worn out ones you removed.

        BTW, not sure where your at but if you want the "correct" washer shoot me a PM, I should have a spare in the next week or so, as soon as I get around to doing my clutch, I'll mail it to you.
        1979 xs1100 Special -
        Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power

        Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.

        Originally posted by fredintoon
        Goes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
        My Bike:
        [link is broken]

        Comment

        • #5
          Originally posted by jmcmillan40 View Post
          DOES ANYONE HAVE A PIC OF THE THRUST WASHER CLOSEST TO THE OIL GEAR?
          Check the photos in this thread.....

          http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...4665#post74665
          2H7 (79) owned since '89
          3H3 owned since '06

          "If it ain't broke, modify it"

          ☮

          Comment

          • #6
            I think i got it

            ok i understand.
            i took out extra plate, never had a clutch sliping problem.
            also IT WAS THE RONG THRUST WASHER, i did find an extra i had on another shaft that fits and looks exactly like the one in tech tip picture, got it back to gether and i think i have it beat, now i can ajust down below as manual sayes and up top i have the ajustment about 1/4 ou and now i have room to go in or out to fine tune.

            i have not been able to test it riding bevuase its poring down rain, but i have it now were i can go through all gears with clutch pulled in and easy to get into nutral.

            ONE THING I HAD EXTRA SPRINGS NOT NEW so iam going to order some heavy duty barnetts i noticed that i can pull the clutch in preety easy.

            so thank for help, also i would imagin with new frictions in there i might have to ajust again as the get heated and worn in a little.

            also i did 1/2 gear fix and put in missing cam stop and cam gear and no more rattle going into gear and, so now all i have to do is drive her and see how she shifts

            yehhhhhhhhh. almost there (i think lol)
            thanks for all your help. now its on to the seca xj900rk

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