Ignition advance issue

[Lunatic]

This has probably been discussed to death here, but I'll go ahead and ask anyway.
I had some trouble with pinging last year, on REALLY ot days, under load (my XS11 has a sidecar on it). SO I pulled the cover off to retard the timing a tiny bit. Found that the plate wtih the timng marks on it does not look like the one in the photo of the Clymer manual. Also found that the indicator needle for timing adjustment was bent in behind the plate. Head scratcher as to why the last person in there didn't notice that they had bent it back under there. Next I fire the bike up, note that the advance mechanism clatter sounds bad. Is it supposed to clatter liek that? Seems liek I ought to make a manifold to take vacuum off of all four cyls to get rid of that flutter. Or am I wrong on that?
So, I didn't touch the timing, even though the timing light shows the timing to be no where near any of the marks on the plate at 5000 rpm.
Took the rig out for a ride tonight and as it warmed up it started running like crap. Was radiating a LOT more heat than usual for such a short ride. REALLY got hot. Ideas? Trouble seemed to have started when I got that indicator out from behind the plate. I did not change anything else. What gives?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Lunatic,

First off, the vacuum advance tube is to be connected to the #2 carb body port...NOT the #2 or any other intake boot port. You'll probably find that it's connected directly to an intake port=your chatter! The #2 carb body port is metered....will stop the chatter!!!! Just close off the #2 intake port afterwards.

Secondly, if the timing is too retarded, it can cause it to overheat! You check the timing with a light connected to the #1 plug wire...left one as you sit on the bike. Also, you check it with engine at idle, and vac. adv. unplugged/capped.

Since your timing mark was so badly bent, you'll need to pull the #1 plug, and use a long stick/straw, and find TDC. Better if you have a micrometer type gauge. You'll want to mount a piece of stiff cardboard over the timing plate/wheel for a simple degree wheel, and mark where the #1 piston stops rising, and again where it starts dropping...because there will be some rotation where the piston will not move either up or down but the crank will still turn a few degrees. After marking those 2 points, then TDC will be in the CENTER of those marks. THEN , you can more accurately line up the pointer with the "T" mark on the timing mark which is supposed to be TDC! Then you can recheck the timing.

Find Catatonic Bug's name/post/profile and download the manuals he provides!!
T.C.

[Lunatic]

thanks Bug!

Thanks Topcat I went out there, got a flashlight and looked, found the advance hooked to the intake port, and the port on the carb body OPEn, no cap on it or anything. Capped off intake port, moved hose to carb body. Fingers crossed. Will report back tomorrow when I get to fire it up and get it hot again.

[Lunatic]

also . .

also, Tomorrow, I'll mount a degree wheel on the end and put a long travel dial indicator down the plug hole as you directed. Will check timing as you direct also. Going into a holiday weekend like this its a bummer to have it down. I was laid up all winter with a broken leg and didn't get any work done on it.

[dbeardslee]

Also found that the indicator needle for timing adjustment was bent in behind the plate.

If you want a real degree wheel, you can do as TC suggested with the cardboard, but use a little rubber cement and attach this printable degree wheel to it. I size it down a little bit when I print, and IIRC a 5" wheel is about as big as you can use without getting in the way of engine guards. IIRC it was sized at about 70%. I use a little piece of coat hanger attached to the timing cover mounting bolts as a pointer. I leave the timing plate in place, and use a longer bolt and some washers to mount it. Works great.

[Lunatic]

Not a problem

I already have a spiffy degree wheel. thats not a problem at all. Clear plexi with printed numbers and everythng. Very handy.
Todays update. It ran SWEET this AM for about a mile, then puked alongside the road. I think that the fluttering may have overstressed the wires to the triggers. Will head over to it with a spare pick up trigger assembly and see if that cures it. If its just the wires, I'll resolder them and put them on the shelf for future use.

[dbeardslee]

Even better!

[Lunatic]

Update

Update. I installed a back up trigger set, got it home, Now heading out to route wires correctly before taking it for a longer ride but WOW does it run nicer with the hoses plugged into the correct spots. Go figger.
Will test and see if its just the wires on the old triggers. Easy to repair and keep on the shelf for future use if thats all it takes.

[cywelchjr]

I've ended up tweaking mine a bit by ear to get it a close as I can to NO ping under heavy load but just short of that point. I also need to re-degree and zero the pointer cause mine is bent and I KNOW I didn't get it right the first time, but then again it's running good other than the stupid rattle, which has not changed in about 8000 miles and I'm gettin reasonable mileage (about 30 around town and almost 37 out on the road) considering my size and it being a full bagger.