oil level mystery & screwless brakes

[Crazcnuk]

"Same ticking noise today"

Some ticking, when cold, is normal on these. The valves are quite loose until the bike warms up.

Have you checked your valve clearnaces?

Another possible culprit is the cam chain tensioner, it may not be holding properly. It is possible for the cam chain tensioner to slip allowing a small amount of extra slack. If you have the noise, adjust the chain, and the noise goes away, but comes back, this could be the problem.

Do a search for cam chain tensioner procedures before doing too much with it. They have to be handled carefully.

There are a number of 'fixes' for cct issues.

[Poprock]

Cam chain tensioner could be stripped. DAMHIK. If it is, you're gonna be real unhappy soon. Of course, that'll give you a good opportunity to replace those possibly leaky valve seals.

Put about a half can (or more) of Sea Foam in the oil, idle it for 10-15 min (with a fan on the motor) do an oil change. If you have clogged passages the Sea Foam should clean them out. Don't ride it with Sea Foam in the oil.

[jamak]

oil level mystery and screwless brakes

Sometimes you just have to accept what seems illogical. The bike doesn't appear to be burning oil, but it is using it somehow. I do a lot of motor braking, and there could be some blow-by from that.
Whatever it is, once I added some oil, the noise was less noticeable. The only noise from the motor was the same ones I've been hearing since I bought it. But I just started it now after it sat for about 3 hours, and that loud ticking is still there. If this was the cam chain tensioner, I don't think the noise would lessen that appreciably when it's driven/warmed up. I checked the locknut, and it's tight.
Lifters will quiet down, but I can't say for the valves needing adjustment. It would seem they would stay noisy too.
I could use some sage advice here. Don't want to blow this puppy up before the season really gets rolling.
Just thought I would add that I am using 20/50 oil.

[Crazcnuk]

"Lifters will quiet down, but I can't say for the valves needing adjustment. It would seem they would stay noisy too"

There are no lifters on these engines. The valve lash that is desingned into it (what you adjust) is desinged to allow for warm-up expansion. The valves WILL quieten as the engine warms up.

[jamak]

oil level mystery and screwless brakes

Duh! Overhead cams, hello? Too used to V-Twins.
OK on the valves quieting down, if that's what it is. Was I at least correct on the cam chain noise being a constant? If it's loose, it'll stay loose and still make noise?
I use this bike for my job, and I don't want to have to park it. On the other hand, if the valves need adjustment immediately, there's no choice.
I know these aren't the brightest queries, but if ya don't know, ya have to ask.
TopCat, you out there?

[Crazcnuk]

For the most part a loose cam chain will rattle all the time, and the noise is not really a concern, at least in the short term.

The chain would have to be REALLY loose for it to slip (as long as the tensioner is still in place). I woul dthink the noise would be unbearable long before this.

[jamak]

oil level mystery and screwless brakes

Yeah, I don't think the cam chain is a concern. But how long can I go without adjusting the valves? They quiet down within a couple of miles.
I just haven't had time to look at what's needed tool and expertise wise to do the job.
Thanks Cnuk, for staying with me on this. I think I lost Phil and Geezer, but it's a holiday weekend, after all.
TC, if you're out there? I got the fuse block today-thanks. Any advice on my present dilemma?

[Crazcnuk]

You can go a long time. You just lose some performance. As I mentioned, some valve clatter, when the engine is cold, is completely normal. If it goes away at temperature, I wouldn't worry about it until your next routine maintenance.

All you need to set them is a set of feeler guages, and either the special tool for getting the shims out, or a 10mm socket (to lift the cams) and a selection of shims. I use a flat bladed screw driver by wedging it between the cam and the shim bucket. (I bought the special tool, but can't get it to work.)

You may need a valve cover gasket, but a lot of people here just use form-a-gasket (or equiv) instead.

Be very careful taking out the valve cover bolts (20?) Make sure your hex key goes all the way in so you don't strip the head, and be careful not to break the bolts.

[jamak]

oil level mystery and screwless brakes

Thanks my friend. It figures. I just fixed a valve cover leak with Permatex about 2 weeks ago! Hasn't leaked either!
I'll let you know how I make out.
Thanks again. Have a good Holiday.

[Crazcnuk]

I just set my valves a month or so ago and now my valve cover leaks...

I have 2 new gaskets, but just haven't wanted to take it all apart again. The weather here has been miserable.

[TexinMaine]

I did noticed my oil level didnt drop as much when I use some really overpriced 20-50 oil from a HD shop. (Stupid $10 min purchase with the card when all I needed was the filter)

Actually this is a violation of thier agreement with the credit card company. I would contact which ever credit company you paid with and inform them of the retailer who is doing this. They will get a nasty letter from the credit company and thier little minimum purchase sign goes away.

[bikerphil]

Thick oils, I've used 70 straight weight oil in my old 79F engine. It used some oil and had a bad bearing, 60 or 70 wt kept it on the road for 20K miles longer. Stp 4 cyl oil treatment will work on a worn engine too. My clutch didn't slip with it.

[petejw]

similar to Phil, ive been running 40-70 weight oil in mine,
it still burns it but at a lot lesser rate than 20-50.
only problem with this tho coming into winter, its making
the starter clutch slip in the mornings.

jat for the noise have you checked for a leaking exhaust
gasket, it can make a similar sound to what your describing.

[jamak]

oil level mystery and screwless brakes

I think the motors still pretty strong in this bike, other than the valve noise, if that's what it is. I didn't have a torque wrench when I adjusted the cam chain tensioner, so I just backed the adjustment nut in as far as I backed it out, + a 1/4 turn. I think I can eliminate that.
But the oil 'useage'. That's another can of worms. I'm kinda convinced it's all the motor braking I do that's causing the loss. Definitely no leaks, and if this was burning that much oil, I'd smell it, or see it. I don't jump on it hard; hardly ever get past 5k on the tach in acceleration. The heavier oil makes sense, as does the cold weather alert as seasons change. I've just never been a fan of additives and such as band aids. Not when a motor is basically sound, and only needs some top end work.
But, this is a different animal than I am used to. I still don't get the oil level mystery. I mean, you add oil till it shows it's full-that's it. It doesn't disappear overnight. That's exactly what happened. WTF?

[jamak]

oil level mystery and screwless brakes

Hey cNuk. You spoke of shims on the piston side of the front brake caliper pads. The Clymers mentions them on the opposite side, and the screw Phil and Geezer spoke of fits nice but doesn't line up with the hole in the pad.
I blasted the calipers with brakeclean while I had 'em off, and that helped the squeals, but the research goes on. Any more ideas?
Thanks to all for all your input, and I hope you're all having a great weekend. The weather here has been perf for 2 wheelin'.