Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Fuel Cap Drain

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Fuel Cap Drain

    Ok, here's what's probably a strange one. My drain for the gas cap area is almost completely plugged. It will drain eventually, but it takes a good while. Any hints on a good easy way to clear that line out so that it drains properly? I've tried blowing air through it from the bottom end and it didn't really do anything. I've thought about trying from the top, but don't really expect that to work either. Maybe I can push a wire coat hanger up through it? (assuming I can still find a metal hanger anymore ). It's been a little disturbing recently seeing the water sloshing around in there after the rain, and of course after washing it (of course the washing part only happens a couple times a year ). Worse, I'm worried about some of it slipping past the cap seal and getting inside the tank, which I'm sure wouldn't be good for proper running etc.
    Cy

    1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
    Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
    Vetter Windjammer IV
    Vetter hard bags & Trunk
    OEM Luggage Rack
    Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
    Spade Fuse Box
    Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
    750 FD Mod
    TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
    XJ1100 Front Footpegs
    XJ1100 Shocks

    I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.

  • #2
    One of those crafty pipe cleaners should work. A wire hanger might be a bit stiff though - maybe a piece of electrical wire?
    1980 XS850SG - Sold
    1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
    Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
    Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

    Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
    -H. Ford

    Comment


    • #3
      You have to be real careful poking around in those drain holes. I poked a hole in one trying to clear it and had to bed a new one in. The last tank I bought had a plugged drain hole, and I was able to clear that one with electrolysis. Remove the cap and trim ring, plug the end of the tube, and pour a little electrolyte (sodium carbonate, available in the swimming pool section of your local hardware store, and water) solution around the filler neck, and try your best to persuade it to go down the hole. You need to position your coat hanger in the solution around the neck, but not touching any metal. Hook the positive electrode from a battery charger (not an automatic charger) to the coat hanger, and the negative to the end of the tube. Turn the power on and you should almost immediately see stuff come bubbling up out of the tube. Once you've got it clear you could try shooting some pb blaster or other rust remover down there, let it soak for a while, and blow it out good with compressed air. That's the gentlest way I know to open one.
      Last edited by dbeardslee; 05-26-2010, 03:35 PM.
      I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

      '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

      Comment


      • #4
        I was rereading my above post, and thought I should clarify something - you don't put the coat hanger around the filler neck. It just needs to be touching the electrolyte solution that's surrounding the neck, submersed if possible, and as close to the hole as you can get it. You can attach it to a little block of wood for insulation and easier positioning.
        I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

        '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by cywelchjr View Post
          Ok, here's what's probably a strange one. My drain for the gas cap area is almost completely plugged. It will drain eventually, but it takes a good while. Any hints on a good easy way to clear that line out so that it drains properly? - - -
          Hi Cy,
          something else to worry about; what if that tube is rusted through? Does the water that slowly seeps away actually come out the other end or does it get into the gas?
          If shop air don't work how about a hydraulic hand pump?
          Those things develop pressure in the 1,000's of psi rather than shop air's 125 psi.
          If all else fails, you could cut the filler cap depression out of there and weld in the raised filler neck off a Special tank.
          At least with a raised cap you can get the bastard open without the key.
          Fred Hill, S'toon
          XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
          "The Flying Pumpkin"

          Comment

          Working...
          X