My RT pet-cock turn twice as hard as my LT

[Suckerpunch]

Should I be concerned? Could it be clogged?

Also, If a pet-cock were to clog up, and because their are two of them. Will the motor run properly on one good pet-cock?

May be a lame rookie question but, I need to know and cant find a reference.

[bikerphil]

First, try penetrating oil around the lever. They usually don't plug up, there are screens above them. If you lose a petcock, two cylinders go with it.

[ManagerMike]

One fuelcock turning harder than the other certainly implies a need to recondition or replace both of them. It may be as simple as the easier to turn valve may have the outer (phillips) screws backed off or as serious as the harder to turn valve has the main inner seal starting to disintegrate.
You cannot (in original or similar configuration) run on just one fuelcock, each one supplies fuel to just two carbs. I have yet to read, even here, someone having described a mod that would have altered this config.

[Suckerpunch]

One fuelcock turning harder than the other certainly implies a need to recondition or replace both of them. It may be as simple as the easier to turn valve may have the outer (phillips) screws backed off or as serious as the harder to turn valve has the main inner seal starting to disintegrate.
You cannot (in original or similar configuration) run on just one fuelcock, each one supplies fuel to just two carbs. I have yet to read, even here, someone having described a mod that would have altered this config.

could you not just splice both fuel lines with a tee?

[DGXSER]

Actually there are several write ups on the site where folks have done just that. Run both petcocks to a single T fitting and then the outlet of that T down between the air inlets with a single in-line fuel filter and then to another T that feeds both Fuel T inlets. So either petcock or both can be on and still feed all carbs.

[ManagerMike]

Must have missed that post (among the brazillions of them here).
However I have read on this site (somewhere) that the twin valve config was adopted supposedly to allow for the deep overhang of the fuel tank so that one can utilize the full capacity of the tank (not run out with a quart or two still on one side of the tank). Does this sound right?
Also, why would one want all the extra plumbing...KISS principle.

[DGXSER]

Compared to what some have run, and what the Special Octopus requires, that is simple. Alot of folks run the fuel line form left petcock across the bike with an inline filter to feed the carbs on opposite side. And vice-versa from right petcock.

Me, I do keep it simple. I eliminate the octopus, block off the PRIME feed and then simply run a line form the left petcock to left carbs with an inline fuel filter, same on opposite side.

[fredintoon]

Should I be concerned? Could it be clogged?
Also, If a pet-cock were to clog up, and because their are two of them. Will the motor run properly on one good pet-cock?
May be a lame rookie question but, I need to know and can't find a reference.

Hi 'punch,
yes you should be concerned. I doubt it's clogged but stiffness is a sign of something not being right.
Think about refurbishing the petcock with a rebuild kit.
If the fuel lines are joined together in an H-pattern so either petcock will feed all 4 carbs, one petcock will flow enough fuel to run the engine flat out.
There will be the fuel in the other side of the tank that can't be got at except by leaning the bike on it's side so it flows over the tank tunnel.

[BigRed]

I don't know if other bikes are different or not, but I've got an '80SG, and the octopus will flow fuel from one petcock to all four carbs. The vacuum valve only stops flow from 2&3 to 1&4 (numbers on the valve). 1&4 flow to each other, as to 2&3. When vacuum is applied, any one pipe will feed any of the other three. As stated above, I think the only reason for having two petcocks is to get all the fuel out of the tank.

You can take your sticky petcock apart to see what the problem is. The hardest part is getting the fuel out of the tank. Then you just take out the two phillips screws holding the faceplate on, and you'll be able to get at the rest of it. You can put a little grease on the rubber to loosen things up.

Good luck!

[DGXSER]

I just remembered, I posted this thread on how to rebuild the petcocks from a special including the Octopus valve. Hope it may clear this up for you a little bit.

[soccer4m]

simple, 5 minute fix

Just take off the two little screws on the outside, take out the lever, and smooth on the backside- the rubbing surface and lube up with some silicon grease or whatever grease you have. The backside of the lever, which rubs, tends to build up gunk and oxidize leading to rough turning. Also do not crank down the screws holding it in, it only needs light pressure to hold it in. Try penetrating oil first and if no noticible improvement, in 5 minutes you can pull off the lever, sand smooth, lube and reinstall and you will be a happy XS'r,,,I did all mine and its nice.....................good luck Mike in Sun DIego

[Winterhawk]

Take the lever and on the back side place some fine emery cloth on a plate of glass and figure 8 it while rotating the lever. Use a right size o-ring around the exterior. Be for warned that I have ran into many a K&L kits that the plungers are the wrong length. Always compare the old with the new parts. I've rebuilt both my petcocks using this method 6 years ago and have never had a problem or a leak removing the tank many times recently until it got the bike fixed last week for good this time. 36.6 mpg with my wife and I both on. True but hard to believe. I wouldn't take $4,500.00 for it now. I turned down $3,500.00 from a customer at Merriam Cycle a few years back. These bikes are becoming priceless for good ones. Well worth any time and effort put into them.