Question for Machinists!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey all,

I'm working on a MOD that I think many will be interested in if I can get the bugs out!! But what I need is something about 5+1/8" diameter(round), about 1+1/8" thick, like a solid piece of aluminum vs. steel due to weight. It will need to be very smooth/flat on both surfaces, but that's about it, I'll drill or have machined out the small parts/areas I'll need to remove to make it fit properly.

Anybody out there know where I can get, have made something like this, and who to contact? Also, any idea as to how much it might cost??

Some of you may have already figured out what I'm wanting it for, but I don't want to tell or describe it until I get it working!! I'm not looking to make this for selling it, just want it to WORK before shooting my mouth off about others making/getting one!

Thanks in advance. T.C.

[Duster]

T C: Could you layer the thicknes and weld them together? It you have an airport near by with a shop there, they might have thick pieces but not that thick.
Duster

[Dennyz]

T.C.

I have the tools to make a 5 1/8" diameter disk, 1 1/8" thick out of aluminum. I did some checking (on the web). I can order a plate of aluminum that would accommodate your dimensions for $42.37 + shipping. I would expect it to cost around $50.00 delivered. It will cost some $$ to ship the finished product back to you.

It would need to have some holes drilled in it for mounting to a lathe. If what you are building requires holes, I could use them for mounting. Once on the lathe, it would be a rather simple process. The surfaces could be as smooth as needed (mirror if necessary).

If you can get your hands on scrap aluminum that would work, for next to nothing, send it to me and I will machine it.

[strom]

Any hardware store should have aluminium, usually in round pieces and they cut it to any lenght you require. It is expencive, but not unaffordable.

LP

[TopCatGr58]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the tips and offers. Duster, I don't have or know how to TIG weld for aluminum, or weld anything for that matter-YET, and I was afraid of the weight of several slabs of thick steel.

I found a local Aluminum salvage yard, and they have stock bulk aluminum in the size, but not the shape I need, for about a $1.00 a lb, so it shouldn't be too expensive. I have a friend from the list that lives local, and he's a machinist also who has offered to help. I wasn't sure if I could get in touch with him, so that's one of the reasons I posted. If my friends equipment won't work, or he doesn't have the time, DENNYZ, I'll definitely take you up on your offer, thanks!!

The project is still under construction, as soon as I have it completed and tested to my satisfaction, I'll tell you all about it, and post pictures and such. Sorry to keep you in suspense, but I don't want to promise something, and then end up failing!

Wish me luck, we'll all benefit if I succeed! T.C.

[Geezer]

On the other hand if you tell us what you're doing, you can take advantage of the synergy of the group. One of us might have some idea that will help you in a way that you haven’t anticipated.

Geezer

[Jeff]

The only thing that comes to mind here is a home made oil cooler adapter.

[Ken Talbot]

I'm thinking an oil filter adapter so you could run a nice, chrome spin-on cartridge filter...

[Geezer]

Originally posted by Ken Talbot
I'm thinking an oil filter adapter so you could run a nice, chrome spin-on cartridge filter...

Who needs chrome? One of those short body auto spin on filters would be great (even better if it would still work with my oil cooler adapter.)

Geezer

[nashville_bill]

Why would you want a spin on oil filter? I like the stock one - It's just like the one on my 1961 MGA!

[TopCatGr58]

You guys are just too smart!

I wrote to, crap, I can't remember exactly who, in a PM that wrote to me and told them what it was. Ken, you hit it on the head!! And I would think that since the OIL COOLER adapters were designed to allow use of the OEM filter case, that it may work with them as well, however this will add another 1+1/8" to the bottom.....so with a spin on, it might stick out a bit too far vs. bikes that don't have an oil cooler!?

I found a nice 6" diam round block of solid aluminum that was 2+3/8" thick, weighed 7 lbs, only cost $7.00, and they have lots more of that stock!! A friend/fellow XSive near here will be helping with the machining. The center "nipple" of the engine casing that the oil filter bolt screws into sticks out about 21mm above the mating surface of the filter case, and so I'll be cutting/drilling out appx. a 7/8" depression into this plate to allow fitting up to that, the whole adapter I've estimated will only need to be 1+1/8" thick, that will allow a 1/4" thick/thin wall/rim/edge in the center that I will be putting the attaching bolt/pipe thru with either a thin nut, or a welded thin nut in the middle of a double ended threaded piece of pipe so that I can tighten the bolt/pipe to tighten/seal the adapter plate up against the engine casing. The other end of the threaded pipe will be for attaching the spin on filter, black or chrome, preferably a lower profile one!!

I'll be drilling a hole or two thru the adapter plate proximal to the center hole to allow the oil to go from the oil pump thru the plate into the filter, and then up thru the center pipe and into the engine. I'm still researching to find a piece of steel threaded pipe that will fit. The OEM is 20mm diam, x 1.5 pitch. Standard plumbing pipe won't work! I also will be checking out the required fitment for the newer bikes that use a spin on filter ie. Vmax, V-star, etc. to see what size pipe they attach to, to assist me in designing/making this double ended threaded pipe with a nut in the middle, dependent upon the size, shape of their filters. If they are too long, then they would stick out too far from the bottom of the engine, and be in harms way. They do make chrome covers for some of these bike's oil filters that I would assume are a thicker/stonger metal, which might offer more protection as well as make it a bit dressier!!!!

I tried the Oil Filter bolt out on many auto filters, and surprisingly, it fit many models, Fram PH25;30;3506;3675;3950;
3985; 8873. The threading wasn't an especially tight fit, but it threaded all the way on without binding. Others were either too small or way too big. The 8873 was relatively short, wide, with a wider fitting/sealing O-ring which would be easier to ensure that I got my oil pump supply hole drilled to fit within the diameter of that O-ring size!!

SO...that center double ended pipe piece is probably going to be the biggest hurdle. I've even thought of buying another filter bolt, and cutting the ends off and welding them together with a tightening nut inbetween!?

The other concern is the design of the mating surface of the adapter plate and the engine casing. Since both surfaces will be smooth and flat, and once in place will not need to be removed/loosened, I thought a simple gasket with sealer would be sufficient vs. cutting/machining a groove into the adapter and using an O-ring like the OEM case!! What do you other GURUS think??

But I claim the right to name it!!
T.C.'s "S.O.F.A." =Spinon Oil Filter Adapter !?! LOL

[TopCatGr58]

Minor Update and setback!

Dearest GURU's,

I went to the local Honda/Yam shop, and found that the spin on filter for the GL1500 will fit the same thread pattern as the oil filter bolt, however it is surprisingly small!!! So I think I'll be using one of the lower profile Auto filters instead. That filter metal isn't as weak as some folks think it is, and with the extra "grip" coating that Fram puts on them, that seems like a nice extra layer of textured vinyl which further adds to it's strength!!

However, I still am having trouble finding the threaded pipe part. I have an MSC industrial Supply catalog, and it has all sorts of parts, but no "fine" threaded metric tubing, only course thread in that size of M20 x 2.5, whereas this is M20 x 1.5 ! The catalog had metric steel tubing at 1meter length in 20mm diam, with 2mm wall, that I think could be used with a M20x1.5 DIE, but not sure, and they want a handsome price of over $50.00 for this tubing!!
The DIE was about $12.00. And the only M20x1.5 hex nuts were zinc plated, $72.00 for a package of 25.

I searched the web and could only find the course threaded stuff, I even thought of using M20x1.5 threaded rod and drilling a hole down the middle of it to make a pipe out of it, but couldn't find any!!

Any suggestions out there with regards to this pipe/nut combo that I need?!!

T.C.

[Pat Kelly]

Subject: Lube Job



Oil Change instructions for Women:
1) Pull up to Jiffy Lube when the mileage reaches 3000 miles since the last oil change.
2) Drink a cup of coffee.
3) 30 minutes later write a check and leave with a properly maintained vehicle.

Money spent:
Oil Change $20.00
Coffee $1.00
Total $21.00


***********************************************

Oil Change instructions for Men :

1) Wait until Saturday, drive to auto parts store and buy a case of oil, filter, kitty litter, hand cleaner and a scented tree, write a check for $50.00.
2) Stop by 7 - 11 and buy a case of beer, write a check for $20.00, drive home.
3) Open a beer and drink it.
4) Jack car up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack stands.
5) Find jack stands under kid's pedal car.
6) In frustration, open another beer and drink it.
7) Place drain pan under engine.
8) Look for 9/16 box end wrench.
9) Give up and use crescent wrench.
10) Unscrew drain plug.
11) Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil: splash hot oil on face and arms in process. Cuss.
12) Crawl out from under car to wipe hot oil off face and arms. Throw kitty litter on spilled oil.
13) Have another beer while watching oil drain.
14) Spend 30 minutes looking for oil filter wrench.
15) Give up; crawl under car and hammer a screwdriver through oil filter and twist off.
16) Crawl out from under car with dripping oil filter splashing oil everywhere from holes. Cleverly hide old oil filter among trash in trash can to avoid environmental penalties. Drink a beer.
17) Buddy shows up; finish case of beer with him. Decide to finish oil change tomorrow so you can go see his new garage door opener work.
18) Sunday: Skip church because "I gotta finish the oil change". Drag pan full of old oil out from underneath car. Cleverly dump oil in hole in back yard instead of taking it to recycle.
19) Throw kitty litter on oil spilled during step 18.
20) Beer. No, drank it all yesterday.
21) Walk to 7 - 11; buy beer.
22) Install new oil filter making sure to apply a thin coat of oil to gasket surface.
23) Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine.
24) Remember drain plug from step 11.
25) Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan.
26) Remember that the used oil is buried in a hole in the back yard along with drain plug.
27) Drink beer
28) Shovel out hole and sift oily mud for drain plug. Re-shovel oily patch of ground and avoid environmental penalties. Wash drain plug in lawn mower gas.
29) Discover that first quart of fresh oil is now on the floor. Throw kitty litter on oil spill.
30) Drink beer.
31) Crawl under car getting kitty litter into eyes. Wipe eyes with oily rag used to clean drain plug. Slip with stupid crescent wrench tightening drain plug and bang knuckles on frame.
32) Bang head on floorboards in reaction to step 31.
33) Begin cussing fit.
34) Throw stupid crescent wrench.
35) Cuss for additional 10 minutes because wrench hit Miss August (2002) in the left boob.
36. Beer.
37) Clean up hands and forehead and bandage as required to stop blood flow.
38) Beer.
39) Beer
40) Dump in five fresh quarts of oil.
41) Beer.
42) Lower car from jack stands.
43) Accidentally crush remaining case of new motor oil.
44) Move car back to apply more kitty litter to fresh oil spilled during steps 23-43.
45) Beer.
46) Test drive car.
47) Get pulled over: arrested for driving under the influence.
48) Car gets impounded.
49) Call loving wife, make bail.
50) 12 hours later, get car from impound yard.

Money spent:
Parts $50.00
DUI $2500.00
Impound fee $75.00
Bail $1500.00
Beer $40.00
Total -- $4615.00

But at least you know the job was done right!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Pat,

Good reply, but just how many of us trust our local "Jiffy Lube" or bike shop to do our bike's oil changes?? I know it's a pain right now to do mine, and a spin on would make it much easier for me. I guess I could make a poll, and find out how many would get or use this adapter if it wasn't very expensive....and the filter didn't stick out much further than the OEM??

Well, if my machinist friend and I can come up with a decent design that doesn't involve too much fancy machining, and making the attaching pipe/nut combo becomes doable....let's see.. the cost breakdown:

Hunk of Aluminum: $4.00
Piece cost of pipe/nut: $6.00
Cost of Die Cutting/threading pipe:*
*vs. finding required size pipe or threaded rod and just drilling out center.

Machining cost for Adapter: **

**Just spoke with Machinist/Xsive friend, his rate is $40.00/hour, but is definitely willing to work at reduced rate, and keeping part as simple as possible shouldn't take even an hour to process!

SO...I would hope for it not to exceed $25.00 once we get the manufacturing process/kinks worked out...then just add S&H to your location. Okay, next a poll!
T.C.

[Pat Kelly]

BTW...I always change my own oil. When wife take the cage to a Jiffy-rob I double-check ASAP. 75% of the time I find the drainplug finger-tight. She had them change our tranny filter while I was at Big Is. 'Deuce' last year. That cost me over $700 for a tranny rebuild (upgrade). 99.9% of all work on my vehicles or around the house I do myself. If someone else can do it then so can I. Only exception is if it takes a special piece of equiptment that I can't afford. Fortunately I have mechanic for a long time and have aquaintences that will let me use their machine shop for personal use.
Now if I only knew how to weld.........