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Can the rear wheel be shifted?

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  • Can the rear wheel be shifted?

    I only had my rear tire off for a short time but I noticed the rim has a big spacer on the right hand side. So I was wondering...

    What would happen if the rim was spaced over to the right side an inch or so? Would you even notice it riding or would it give you problems?

    Is there anything preventing you from doing this besides a little customizing of the brakes and spacing the final drive teeth out to match?

    My Dad gave me this idea but he can be full of shat sometimes. Just wondering if anyone has done or considered this.
    1980 XS1100SG Special

  • #2
    you would

    not engage the drive gear on the final drive. You could shim it but not more than an 1/8 inch or so. You can also grind out the inside of the swing arm by .06/.09.
    I have to shove my 140 tire past the final drive and the brake stop lug.
    Last edited by jmnjrpa; 05-20-2010, 03:57 PM. Reason: added
    '81 1100 MNS - "Midnight XSpress"
    Original except:
    120 mains outer cylinders - 125 mains inner cylinders - Ceramic headers - Powder coated pipes, covers calipers, and MC's
    4 pods - Air box gutted--E3 Plugs - High Back seat - Grooved out swing arm - SS brake lines
    Fork brace - 160 speedo - Auto CCT
    All gold paint and chrome replaced with GOLD plate

    "STUPID is Forever" Ron White.
    Contact me by PM -I don't deal with stupid anymore.

    Big John

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    • #3
      Originally posted by jmnjrpa View Post
      not engage the drive gear on the final drive. You could shim it but not more than an 1/8 inch or so. You can also grind out the inside of the swing arm by .06/.09.
      I have to shove my 140 tire past the final drive and the brake stop lug.
      Aren't the teeth on the rear rim bolted onto a hub? I was thinking the hub could be kept where it is but the rim would be spaced right.
      1980 XS1100SG Special

      Comment


      • #4
        Yes, that could be done, but you would then have put a spacer matching that amount between the final drive and the drive-side wheel bearing. This could prove to be a PITA as it can't touch anything else inside there as it wouldn't be turning and everything else would be. Failing to install this would result in side thrust on the bearings (rather than the inner races/spacers) and they would quickly fail.

        You would also uncover the drive splines from their protective seal, and may have issues with that. Trying to fit a bigger tire?

        '78E original owner
        Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

        '78E original owner - resto project
        '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
        '82 XJ rebuild project
        '80SG restified, red SOLD
        '79F parts...
        '81H more parts...

        Other current bikes:
        '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
        '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
        '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
        Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
        Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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        • #5
          how big are you trying to go????????????????

          i'm running a 150/90-16 (with no mod's)and i CANNOT do a burnout, by just holding the front brakes.

          i will just push the front end all day long..(that's with me leaning over the front end)

          so a 150 has more then enough meat to put your HP to the ground.

          but like john said, you can sqeak a bit here and there but it MUST be done with great care.

          hope this helps, somehow...
          1979 XS1100SF Special.78 E motor/carbs, Jardine 4-2 exhaust, XS Green coils, Corbin seat, S.S. Brake lines, Hard cases, Heated grips.

          2012 FJR1300 Gen 2. Heli bar risers, R-gaza crash bars, mccruise cruise control.

          (2)2008 WR250R. Because kids outgrew others.

          2007 Suzuki V-Strom 1000. (Just added 2024) pre-crashed.

          1975 Kawasaki S1 250. My first bike. Still have it. NO I'm not selling it!!

          Most bike problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

          Comment


          • #6
            I really should pay more attention to the model of bike in postings....

            That 'big' spacer you have on the right side is to locate the brake caliper with your 16" wheel. That has to stay to keep the caliper centered on the disc. So in reality, you could only move the wheel whatever distance you have between the caliper 'torque' bracket and the swingarm... less than a 1/4". If you swap to a 17" 'standard' wheel, it's a bit different so you could move the wheel an additional .300", but now your tire selection is limited.

            '78E original owner
            Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

            '78E original owner - resto project
            '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
            '82 XJ rebuild project
            '80SG restified, red SOLD
            '79F parts...
            '81H more parts...

            Other current bikes:
            '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
            '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
            '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
            Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
            Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

            Comment


            • #7
              You wouldn't want to use the Standard 17" rim, as it is narrower than the 16" Special.
              2H7 (79) owned since '89
              3H3 owned since '06

              "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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