To part or not to part...?

[Cbass182]

My 1979 XS1100F has finally pushed me over the edge...

I have ran a new wiring harness, replaced the front shocks, replaced the front fender, the exhaust, seat, tank, handlebars, tires, brakes, carb boots, air filter, spark plugs, oil, oil filter, final drive fluid, middle drive fluid, had the carbs cleaned, new battery, converted front from full fairing to stock rectangular headlight bucket...etc. etc. etc.

Had the carbs cleaned, and finally got to the point where i just needed to adjust the valves and sync the carbs...

Couldn't get all the valve cover bolts out.

Kawasaki dealership volunteered to do it for me...

I spend a week trying to get these bolts out without snapping them off.

20 minutes after dropping off the bike. I get a call saying that they broke a bolt off...F-in kidding me!

Took the bike to the Rise Machine Shop. I know Casey works on bikes a lot in his spare time and he got my intake bolts out for me that broke...

He told me...take off your shiny exhaust and your new tires and scrap it...

Or drill out that bolt and stick a new bolt through with a nut and ride it as is til it dies...

He took an allen/hex wrench to some of the other bolts and said, that one's gonna snap, and that one and that one...(while counting in my head...100, 200, 300, 400, 500....... dollars in work from the machine shop)

What should I do? I've got 3 other bikes...it just doesn't seem worth it to me anymore...

[cheezy]

for what my opinion is worth, you should be able to drill the broken bolts out and do a heli-coil type repair. i'm an e-tech, but i've done this many times at work. you can also try the reverse type drill bits, starting real small dia. and work your way up. i wouldn't think it's the end of the road for your bike. i know i'd figure out a way to get'er done if i had as much work stuck into it as you do. a lot of times shops just don't want to mess with jobs like this, because they can make more money doing an easier job for someone else. hang in there!

[CatatonicBug]

I'd start by coating the valve cover bolts in PB Blaster and waiting overnight. Then try removing them again. If nothing else, break all the heads off, lift the cover off the remaining studs, and use vise-grips to wiggle the bolts out while continuing to treat with PB Blaster. You could always drill them out and tap the holes for larger bolts...

With all the work you've already put into that bike, it would be a shame to walk away now!

[Cbass182]

The problem i have with drilling and re threading is that i'd have to pull the head/pull the motor to get to the bolt holes in the center of the motor...

I might end up trying to cut the heads of the bolts off and see if i can't get the valve cover off...Then soak in PB blaster some more (they've been soaking for a week...sprayed them every night)

[DGXSER]

I have seen another member here do the helicoil fix on one of the center inside valve cover bolts without pulling the head. He went to ACE hardware and bought the correct sized drill bit that was about 2' long. It worked pretty well.

[cywelchjr]

The problem i have with drilling and re threading is that i'd have to pull the head/pull the motor to get to the bolt holes in the center of the motor...

I might end up trying to cut the heads of the bolts off and see if i can't get the valve cover off...Then soak in PB blaster some more (they've been soaking for a week...sprayed them every night)

The heads just might be keeping the PB blaster from getting to where it can do it's job. So cutting the heads off might be the best option, then get the blaster into the threads where it can do some good. Then don't forget to put anti-seize on the replacement bolts.

[XSokieSPECIAL]

Or........

Just get another head off ebay or from andreas..........a hell of a lot easier and cheaper.

[Cbass182]

My local salvage just got a 79 special last fall...I assume that head would swap right over?...

[XSokieSPECIAL]

Should be the same.

There are people here who can answer the for sure if they'll jump in here.

[DGXSER]

Swap right out, bolt right up....yes. I believe there is a difference in the cams form the F and the SF though, not that you would probably even notice any performance change.

[newc4]

I've had luck heating the area around the bolts with a propane torch. Don't think it would hurt.

Darrell

[Crazcnuk]

I drilled one out, and then just rethreaded it the next bigger size and used a stainless screw.

Fortunately, mine was where I could get at it.

For what it's worth, I would try a combo of two of the suggestions already made.

If you can get some penetrating oil in around the head of the screws, then heat the area in the head where the bolt is. Then let it cool, and reheat in an hour. Do this for an evening, then put more penetrating oil and let it sit overnight, then get a friend to heat the area while you carefully apply a wrench to the screw.

if you could borrow a 3/8 drive air impact w/allen socket that would fit, so you could vibrate them wouldn't hurt either. Just make sure it's not turned up too high.

[cheezy]

i'll second on the propane torch. you'd be amazed at what a LITTLE, well placed heat can accomplish.

[b.walker5]

Drilling, re-tapping, ezi-outs, heli coils, propane etc, etc, etc, are not difficult things to if you have access to the tools, the skills, the time, the money and, most importantly, the patience and it sounds like yours is running out. From your first post it looks like you've done pretty much everything else and this is the only real stumbling block left in your way. If I was in your shoes i'd probably be feeling the same way but I think my answer would be to replace the head, rather than shagging around with all those bolts and the possibility of having to heli-coil every damn one of them. Fortunately, in my workshop, I have all the tools required but I understand the frustration of those who dont, and the thought of having to pay someone to do stuff when money is tight.

Contact Andreas, If he has a head you can bet it will be a helluva lot cheaper than your local boneyard, and it will fit straight on. Swap them over and then work on the old head later when youre in a better frame of mind. (A winter job, perhaps). Hang in there buddy, dont give up. It will be worth it in the long run.

[greatnw]

I'm gritting my teeth from bad memories just reading this. I had this happen on some wimpy little 6mm bolts that hold the waterpump on my Porshce 944.

I tried everything that's been mentioned. My Porsche pro's said I probably couldn't get the bolt hot enough with propane or even map gas at home. Thought I would need something that would really heat it up. It works for them just about every time.

I was stuck and staring at a problem forever. Was lamenting to one of my buddies about it one day and he said, "Why don't you melt it?" I thought he'd lost his mind. BUT he is an extremely creative guy who owns a machine shop. He makes all kinds of highly machined aluminum parts and says that once in a while they break off a tap or a bolt and if it is too tight they use an acid that attacks steel and doesn't react with aluminum to literally melt the bolt.

He makes a "dam" with modeling clay and then puts the acid to work. Took me several days, but he says it shouldn't take more than a few hours.

Then you simpliy clean up the threads.

I'm convinced there must be an electrical way to free these steel bolts from the aluminum they are stuck in. That was the problem on my 944. The car sat for several years and it was the corrosion between the steel and aluminum that had a grip on them.

I bet some of you really smart engineering guys could come up with a way to put a charge into the steel that would break the corrosion between the two metals.

Don't give up! (I think the new head is a good solution to not parting it out!)

Good luck.