Seized valve cover bolts...(cut, heat, drill?)

[Cbass182]

I only have gotten 8 of the 20 bolts out of my valve cover. I don't want to twist them off like i did with a couple of the intake bolts. ($100 at a machine shop to get those out) I have had them soaking in PB blaster for 3-4 days, spraying them once or twice a day. I have taken a propane torch to one of them. I have tapped them with a hammer. I have done everything i can think of other than cut them off...

I was just wondering, if i cut all the heads off the bolts, will I have enough room to lift the valve cover up and over the bolt shafts without the frame getting in the way...?

I figure if i can get the cover off I can get some PB blaster right where the threads go into the head. And heating the shaft directly i wouldn't lose so much heat into the valve cover when trying to heat them to break them free...

Any advice would be appreciated...

[79XS11F]

If the engine runs try removing them while the engine is warming or warmed up. Not so hot as to get the steel bolts hot but enough to have the alloy good and warm. The alloy should heat up sooner then the steel bolts and create less grip on the bolts. apply the anti seize while warm. I have my doubts about the cover clearing the bolts with the heads cut off.
Rob

[DiverRay]

Use the propane to heat the HEAD, NOT the bolts. The aluminum will expand much quicker than the bolts. I then use the PB around the bolts, let it get sucked in as the head cools. Then heat once again, and using a new, high quality hex wrench, tap it with a hammer to break the bolt loose from the head. If you have an impact wrench, the type you hit with a hammer, use it and a hex socket of the proper size. You can put an extension on the impact as needed.

[DGXSER]

Great ideas on getting the bolts loose. I would agree that heating the bolt hurts your cause, heating the head will help it.

I believe there would be room to get the cover off with the bolts there, by the time you lift it enough to get over the cams and the sprockets, it should be enough to clear those bolts.

[Geezer]

Ina addition to what the other guys said, try tightening them a little then backing them off after that turn them in a little then out a little further each time until you work them out. Drip ATF down the sides of the screws and work it into the threads as you try to work out the screws.

After that, replace them all with stainless screws and use some anti-seize compound on them.

Geezer

[skids]

You can always try needle nose vise grip in combination with the allen wrench and carborundum paste in the bolt head. Been there, done that.

[petejw]

if you can get in there id whack it even harder
a few more times with a hammer to help break any
seal, then do as geezer suggested to remove the bolt, (similar method
to tapping a thread)
i remove butterfly screws in the carbys the same way,
try and be careful to not get the bolt to hot or it
could snap.

[Cbass182]

Thanks for all the feedback and suggestions.

I haven't stripped any of the heads of the bolts, and i can get enough torque on them. I just don't want to snap them off...I used vice grips and an allen wrench and wacked em pretty good. I just don't want to crack where they go into the head by hitting them too hard.

I've been asking random people that come into my work what i can do and I got lucky, the one guy i asked manages the local Kawasaki dealer and said he would have his guys get them out for me for FREE!

Gotta love the local smaller shops...

Thanks again,

-Chris-

[DGXSER]

Cheater!!! Must be nice!

[Ken Talbot]

Use a fresh screwdriver bit with an impact driver and the necessary extension. Make sure you're got the impact driver pointing the correct direction, whack it with a hammer, and those bolts will come loose.

Here's a photo of an impact driver:



If you don't have one yet, get one! This is one of the handiest tools I have ever bought for removing steel fasteners from aluminum casings on Japanese bikes. Once you get the phillips screws out, toss them away and replace them with allen bolts, AKA socket head cap screws.

[DGXSER]

Once you get the phillips screws out, toss them away and replace them with allen bolts, AKA socket head cap screws.

Interesting, every XS11 I have seen has allen bolts holding the valve cover on.

[Ken Talbot]

Oops!! Too many beers... Of course the valve covers have socket head cap screws. Whack them with an appropriate size hex driver in an impact driver and you'll be okay.

Now, let's talk about the phillips head screws holding the diaphragm covers on your carbs!

[DGXSER]

Its only taken just under 2 years to catch you on one Ken, I could not resist.

[Ken Talbot]

Yup, you caught me out on that one. Randy caught me in 2006, Fredintoon caught me in 2007, MRO caught me out on a good one in 2008, and a general search of posts by me containing the word "oops" actually brings up a fairly embarassing number of posts!!