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  • Coil question/problem...

    I was testing the coils this morning and I get 1.5 Ohm at the at the primary on both but I am not getting anything when I check the secondary. The bike was running (not great but it was running) before I pulled the wires to check (and no I have not yet put it back together to see if it is still running. It is the original coils and the PO had spliced in new connectors and boots about mid way between the coils and the boots. I am going to put the plugs back on and see if there is still spark from them or of I broke the splice when I pulled them off. Anyone else have any other Ideas??

    Nathan
    Nathan
    KD9ARL

    μολὼν λαβέ

    1978 XS1100E
    K&N Filter
    #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
    OEM Exhaust
    ATK Fork Brace
    LED Dash lights
    Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

    Green Monster Coils
    SS Brake Lines
    Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

    In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

    Theodore Roosevelt

  • #2
    When you checked your secondary resistance, did you try it with the plug caps removed and the probes inserted directly into the ends of the high tension wires? Also, make sure the wires you're putting probes into both go to the same coil. Also, the primary resistance should be checked at the TCI. Remove the 4-prong connector, hold it so the 'slots' are horizontal, insert a probe in each of the 'upper slots', set dmm to the 200 ohm range, and take a reading. Repeat for the 'lower slots'. Readings should be about 3.3 ohms at the TCI. If you're getting that 1.5 ohm reading at the TCI, it's too low.
    I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

    '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by dbeardslee View Post
      When you checked your secondary resistance, did you try it with the plug caps removed and the probes inserted directly into the ends of the high tension wires? Also, make sure the wires you're putting probes into both go to the same coil. Also, the primary resistance should be checked at the TCI. Remove the 4-prong connector, hold it so the 'slots' are horizontal, insert a probe in each of the 'upper slots', set dmm to the 200 ohm range, and take a reading. Repeat for the 'lower slots'. Readings should be about 3.3 ohms at the TCI. If you're getting that 1.5 ohm reading at the TCI, it's too low.
      Yes I checked over and over to make sure that i was using the wires from the same coil. I put the probes into the plug caps to check it and I never got a reading. When I did the primary I got 3.3 at the TCI and 1.5 for each coil individually when I check them at the connectors by the coils themselves.

      When I put the plugs back on the wires I get spark. I didnt crank it long enough to look that close at the spark so dont ask how it looked cause the thing fired up with only 2 plugs in.
      Nathan
      KD9ARL

      μολὼν λαβέ

      1978 XS1100E
      K&N Filter
      #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
      OEM Exhaust
      ATK Fork Brace
      LED Dash lights
      Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

      Green Monster Coils
      SS Brake Lines
      Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

      In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

      Theodore Roosevelt

      Comment


      • #4
        On 30-year-old coils it's not unusual to find that your high tension wires are toast. When I first upgraded my coils, I thought I would keep the old ones - just in case. I was going to store them in a 3-pound coffee can, but when I bent the wires to put them in the can, they snapped clean in two. Your coils sound like good candidates for a high tension wire graft - or a new set of hot coils.
        I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

        '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

        Comment


        • #5
          Most likely going to buy a new set of coils but I really didnt want to. I am just curious how I am getting spark but when I check the resistance on the coils I dont register anything?
          Nathan
          KD9ARL

          μολὼν λαβέ

          1978 XS1100E
          K&N Filter
          #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
          OEM Exhaust
          ATK Fork Brace
          LED Dash lights
          Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

          Green Monster Coils
          SS Brake Lines
          Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

          In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

          Theodore Roosevelt

          Comment


          • #6
            Might have something to do with 15k volts when the coil fires, vs what a multitester can put through the wire. You can always pull the plugs and lay them on the valve cover and hit the starter. That way you can see what kind of spark you're getting. You can also fire it up in a relatively dark place, and throw some water on the high tension wires while it's running. If you see sparks arcing from your high tension wires, you'll know they're bad. That's just another test though - the multitester doesn't usually lie. If that's all that's wrong with them, it costs about $12 for new wires, and it's not that hard to do. But newer, more powerful coils sure are nice.
            Last edited by dbeardslee; 05-15-2010, 03:35 PM.
            I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

            '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

            Comment


            • #7
              Are you using an Autoranging Meter or do you have to manually select the measuring range, and are you measuring the secondary correctly? Page 168 of Clymers tell us that you measure the Primary resistance between both primary terminals at the coil and your looking for 1.5 ohms +/- 10%, no argument there, BUT over the page on 169 it tells us that you measure the secondary resistance between both PRIMARY leads, and your resistance should be around 15K ohms. THIS IS A MISPRINT and should read between both SECONDARY leads. Figure 26 shows the correct procedure.

              If you've already picked up on that then make sure your meter is switched to a range that will show K ohms. If its not auto ranging and your on a lower scale it may not register.
              1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
              2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.

              Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.

              "A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by b.walker5 View Post
                Are you using an Autoranging Meter or do you have to manually select the measuring range, and are you measuring the secondary correctly? Page 168 of Clymers tell us that you measure the Primary resistance between both primary terminals at the coil and your looking for 1.5 ohms +/- 10%, no argument there, BUT over the page on 169 it tells us that you measure the secondary resistance between both PRIMARY leads, and your resistance should be around 15K ohms. THIS IS A MISPRINT and should read between both SECONDARY leads. Figure 26 shows the correct procedure.

                If you've already picked up on that then make sure your meter is switched to a range that will show K ohms. If its not auto ranging and your on a lower scale it may not register.
                There is only one setting for Ohms so I am assuming it is an autoranging meter.
                Nathan
                KD9ARL

                μολὼν λαβέ

                1978 XS1100E
                K&N Filter
                #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                OEM Exhaust
                ATK Fork Brace
                LED Dash lights
                Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

                Green Monster Coils
                SS Brake Lines
                Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                Theodore Roosevelt

                Comment


                • #9
                  Sounds like it, try replacing the meter batteries. It needs voltage at the probes to measure resistance and in the higher range it may not have enough. Alternatively, try another meter if you can.

                  Be warned that any discussion about meters here may create a debate over the merits of analogue meters over digital. Personally, I have been an electrician for near enough to 35 years and I have a foot in both camps, but for what your doing a digital is fine, as long as it's a good one. Cheaper ones can give misleading and incorrect readings some times.
                  1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
                  2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.

                  Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.

                  "A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I've had similar problems, coil works but gives no reading when tested. Upgrading the coils was a no brainer.
                    2H7 (79) owned since '89
                    3H3 owned since '06

                    "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                    ☮

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Is it really possible or even a good idea to splice a new piece of wire into the middle of the high tension wires. That is was the PO did. I know one of the wires is loose (it actually came off at one point). I might try putting new wires on the coil like it says in that tech thread. If that doesnt work I guess I will have to bite the bullet and get new coils.
                      Nathan
                      KD9ARL

                      μολὼν λαβέ

                      1978 XS1100E
                      K&N Filter
                      #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                      OEM Exhaust
                      ATK Fork Brace
                      LED Dash lights
                      Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

                      Green Monster Coils
                      SS Brake Lines
                      Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                      In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                      Theodore Roosevelt

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Is it really possible or even a good idea to splice a new piece of wire into the middle of the high tension wires.
                        It's probably possible - hardly seems like a good idea. On the factory coils there's a sheath over the high tension wires. Is that what you're talking about?
                        I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                        '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by dbeardslee View Post
                          It's probably possible - hardly seems like a good idea. On the factory coils there's a sheath over the high tension wires. Is that what you're talking about?
                          The PO cut the high tension wires about 3 - 5 from the coils and then somehow (not sure how) spliced in a new chunk of high tension wire to go to the caps. There is also a piece of what looks like some rubber hose RTVed over the splice area.

                          I know there is a sheath over the original wires and a good chunk of the sheath was removed and not replaced when he did this "splicing"
                          Nathan
                          KD9ARL

                          μολὼν λαβέ

                          1978 XS1100E
                          K&N Filter
                          #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                          OEM Exhaust
                          ATK Fork Brace
                          LED Dash lights
                          Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

                          Green Monster Coils
                          SS Brake Lines
                          Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                          In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                          Theodore Roosevelt

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Man, that sounds like a real hatchet job. Probably found your problem, though - at least one of them . Can you post a pic?
                            I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                            '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I will try and put some pics up tomorrow.

                              The funny thing is though is that I still get a nice blue spark from the plugs...
                              Nathan
                              KD9ARL

                              μολὼν λαβέ

                              1978 XS1100E
                              K&N Filter
                              #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                              OEM Exhaust
                              ATK Fork Brace
                              LED Dash lights
                              Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

                              Green Monster Coils
                              SS Brake Lines
                              Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                              In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                              Theodore Roosevelt

                              Comment

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