Carb Cleaning Question

[hightec_redneck]

Hello everyone. I have read for hours, alot of people have had so many problems with the carbs on these older bikes. And that is understandable since most of them have spent some time just sitting. I have read alot of different opinions about how to clean them, and what products to use, that others have had some success with. But one thing that has rolling around in my head is the phrase " clean them XXX times ". Now do not get me wrong, I am not knocking anyone elses parctices hear, just offering up an idea that I use, and that I have not seem mentioned here. Gunk makes a product "hydroseal" now "hydroseal II" for cleaning carbs. I have used this for about 20 years, with perfect success everytime. I know, that is very lucky but thought it worth mentioning. This comes in a gallon metal can with a small parts strainer basket inside. And it will clean a carb better than enything else I have ever seen. I will caution anyone who tries this product, as it is only intended to be used in metal parts. You must completely remove anything that is not metal, or the hydroseal will destroy is. That means removing the butterfly valves to remove the shaft seals, and making sure that when the idle mixture screw is removed, that the spring, washer, and the o-ring are also removed with it. Again, this cleaner must not come in contact with anything other than metal. That being said, this will give you a carb that is clean like new inside and out. There, now I feel better. The other key to my success is compressed air. You will be able to quickly tell if every passage is clean by passing compressed air through it in both directions. If it remains blocked, you need to let it soak a little longer. But this stuff will break up and eat out all the contaminates in all passages. Just FYI, hope this helps.

[CatatonicBug]

Good to know. I had not heard of that particular product. From what I understand, the Yamaha carb soak stuff works in similar fasion, but it won't eat the butterfly seals.

[b.walker5]

Just googled hydroseal and this is what it came back with.
http://www.steadyhealth.com/Hydro_Se...le_t64125.html

Sounds nasty...

Had to search for Gunk first and then look thru their product lineup to find it.

http://www.gunk.com/prodinfo/HS3.PDF

We get Gunk products over here so I will look for this one and give it it try.

Seems they have a lot of stuff worth looking at for many applications.

http://www.gunk.com/prodinfo.asp

Thanks
Brian

[yamtom]

nonsurprising gunk product

Hi,

I concur totally that the compressed air is a critical issue, I actually didnt use much of that initially because my backyard work area, didnt have access to that at all due to noise complaints from neighbors,, so ,,by the time that I got the job completed I had needed to use a more remote workstation with compressed air. Indeed, if I was starting the job over, I could do it in one try, its just that its hard for a neophyte to know all the complications of a carb rebuild if youve never done one before. For me, some idle screws WOULD NOT COME OUT, SOME PILOTS WOULD NOT COME OUT, so I tried to just clean them in place,, hahaha, thats a no go for sure.

Triple carb cleaning, hahaa, I think that what most are referring to when we say that, is the fact that many of us do partial cleanings hoping to get a running, idling motor without doing full on total disassembly of these carbs.

In the case that the carbs need a total rebuild, by the time it gets to that, they ve been torn apart about three times, I know mine were.

I am not at all surprised that gunk would make a product something like this, after all, most any auto parts store sells such stuff. I shopped the stuff before I bought my yami fluid, and decided against it. If I were to do it over again, I would def try the pinsol and antifreeze solution that someone pointed out on another list.

I didnt feel capable of doing a full tear apart with all those linkages, or , more like, I was concerned about getting it all back together again, haha.

This pro carb cleaner should work great for someone who is a professional, and can deal with the complex removal of every part in these carbs that is made of rubber or plastic. I personally, wouldnt want to risk all the potential monkey motion involved in figgerin how to get the many many bits and pieces of the linkage all back together, let alone shafts butterflies, seals etc. I know that in my own heart that I could do the full tear down reassembly , but just choose not to experience that challenge. Maybe I am shortsighted, but I do have other things to do besides becoming a pro carb rebuild guy.

I think its reasonable to assume that, most of the guys here didnt start out trying to be pro mechanics, even though some of us have become so in the meantime, haha. I will betcha that most just wanted a quick bike with minimal muss and fuss and at a bare bones price compared to a new model.

[n0lan]

There is a cheaper/better way of carb cleaning.

Pinesol


read this thread. PINESOL THREAD


Just dont get it on any painted surfaces.



Hope this helps!
Nolan

[Crazcnuk]

I've always used Kleen Flo Carb and metal parts cleaner.

It will also make your carb parts look like new depending on how long you soak them.

It is a bit nasty on the skin, dries it right out, and stings.

I usually only soak the carbs for a couple of hours. I've never had an issue with not getting out dirt.

[tadtl1]

love that PINESOL thread

I like to think that there is a simpler cheaper way to do everything, and that thread sure elucidates that.
Thanks

[Bullet]

I always used the Kleen flo carb cleaner in my shop too, it is nasty, stinks and burns if you get it on your skin, but it works ..

Since I have had my ultrasonic cleaner for a while now, I give the carbs a shot in the ultrasonic after the kleen flo treatment ..

they don't get much cleaner than this ..

[RODS454]

Pinesol

I just finished the pinesol cleaning on two banks of carbs. I'll never do that again. It leaves a black residue on the brass parts and steel parts. I had to use a brillo pad to clean them off. Next time I'll just invest in some carb cleaner.
RODS454

[hightec_redneck]

That is great to hear all the feedback. A few things I forgot to mention. The hydroseal is now Hydroseal II which is supposed to be more environmently friendly (do not know about that). But I stick my hand right in the gallon can all the time without any irritation at all. And for the most part it is water activated. What I mean by that is it loosens up everything, even large amounts of crud. After 20 min if you see anything still on them, you can use a parts brush or tooth brush to break it up. Then soak for about 5 more min. When you remove it from the can, you must then throughly rinse it in water. You will notice when you put it in the water to rinse it, the aluminum will turn snow white like new. Seem to work like gojo hand cleaner, when it hits water.
I also understand that to tare down a carb is not for the adverage joe, not to mention 4 of them, but with a little help from some of us who have done it, we can get some good results. Anyone in my area who needs help, just let me know. Or I can also help on line or over the phone. Thanks everyone.
Larry