3 questions on 1980 XS1100 Special mods.

[greengoon3]

1) I am doing the rear drive mod. Got one from an 80 XS750. I do use my original shaft (1100) with a bushing and o-rings Correct? Any updates on where I can get the bushing I need off the shelf somewhere ? Or should I just make one out of tubing or brass pipe?

2) I am doing the hydraulic clutch modification also. And I was thinking while I have the cover off and do the clutch plates check out, new springs, and an extra plate what would be involved to add a kickstarter? I see on fleabay kick starter gears all the time,
Do I need to add 1 or 2 shafts with gears and such. Anyone tried this. My starter circuit is flakey sometimes and this would assure me of getting home if needed.

3) Lastly I have gotten spare wheels for my bike and noticed that the rear wheel has 3 holes like valve stem holes. I assume it was something to stop the tire from spining on the rim if an inner tube was used. Can I just install 3 valve stems and use a tubless tire on this rim? Anyone tried this? Also are the rotors all the same front left, front right, and rear?

Any help on the puzzeling questions would be most appreciated.
Thanks,
George

[draketrumpet]

IIRC, only the 78 (only offered as a standard) had that rear wheel. I believe others have said no no to the use of tubeless tires on it. Also, make sure you realize that you'll have to buy 17" tires for that wheel if it is indeed off of a standard. Specials come with 16" rear wheels.

I'll let the others sound off on the rest.

[bikerphil]

I used a bronze bushing from Ace hardware for the final drive mod. Still have to cut it to size though. Yes, use the XS11 driveshaft.

While you have the clutch cover off, see if there is a gear for the kickstarter behind the 3 bolt kickstarter boss. Some 80 motors have it, some don't. If it's in there, adding the kickstarter will be easy. If no gear, you'll have to split the cases to add it.

For the rear wheel, some members tap those extra holes for the rim locks and put a threaded plug with sealer. Others won't use a tube type rim with tubeless tires. Your call on that one.

If you have slotted rotors, the right front and the rear are the same, the left is different. All non sloted rotors are the same. HTH

[jwhughes3]

Do 80 SG and 81SG use same side covers?

I heard on the 80 Special it was a one year fit on covers - that is only covers from another 80 special will fit and an 80 standard and 81 special or STD are different.

Are the 81s modifiable to fit an 80 SG?



Sorry to hijack thread but felt it was related.

[XSokieSPECIAL]

Maybe this will help George..........

1) I am doing the rear drive mod. Got one from an 80 XS750. I do use my original shaft (1100) with a bushing and o-rings Correct? Any updates on where I can get the bushing I need off the shelf somewhere ? Or should I just make one out of tubing or brass pipe?

http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-t...-6th-gear.html

You can get the bushing at any hardware store, Just a 3/4" copper sleeveand cut it to fit, I used a regular tubing cutter and it worled out great.

The cut end fit good and tight on the splines.

[DGXSER]

I heard on the 80 Special it was a one year fit on covers - that is only covers from another 80 special will fit and an 80 standard and 81 special or STD are different.

Are the 81s modifiable to fit an 80 SG?



Sorry to hijack thread but felt it was related.

On the Special models, the 80 and 81 are the same and will interchange. The 79 special only fits the 79. Never owned a STD so I do not know for sure, but I believe the same goes there, the 80-81 STD will interchange, but the STD and the Special will not interchange.

You can modify them to fit other models, mostly it is a matter of slots versus round hols that are different.

[WMarshy]

...
3) Lastly I have gotten spare wheels for my bike and noticed that the rear wheel has 3 holes like valve stem holes. I assume it was something to stop the tire from spining on the rim if an inner tube was used. Can I just install 3 valve stems and use a tubless tire on this rim? Anyone tried this? Also are the rotors all the same front left, front right, and rear?

Any help on the puzzeling questions would be most appreciated.
Thanks,
George

Can anyone confirm replacing the bead lock bolts with valve stems so you can use it as tubeless rim? Going to change my tire tomorrow and was considering ditching the bead locks and tube, didn't want to drill and tab for plugs instead... I'll keep searching for the tread, otherwise let me know if anyone comes across it. Thanks.

[bikerphil]

Yes you can use the early rear tube type rim as tubeless. Crazy Steve checked them and they are identical except for the 2 extra holes. I just modified one of these rims by using a 3/8-16 tap (no drilling required) and two 3/8X3/8 set screws coated with RTV, worked fine. Three valve stems would work though.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey George,

Crazy Steve did some research/comparisons, and posted them recently, see these threads for info so you can make up your own mind/decision about the tube to tubeless conversion!

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...t=tubeless+rim

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...t=tubeless+rim

As Phil just stated, you can tap them and use threaded plugs, OR you can get some bolts/nuts/washers and JB Weld or silicone sealant, many ways to seal them, just keep in mind the weight and the balance thereafter.

I meant to search for the thread on the kick starter mod, but I remember someone finding that the NON-kick starter bikes were missing a special ratchet type part(s) needed for the kick starter gear to GRAB the starter motor shaft at that point, and so it wouldn't work UNLESS you split the cases to swap out that shaft/part....more trouble than it's worth UNLESS you were going to split the cases anyways!?

When you say your starter is IFFY, just how so...like does it NOT grab sometimes...just spins the starter motor? That can be a symptom that the starter clutch may be wearing, or it could be very thick viscosity oil in very cold weather(common occurance), or could be the use of synthetic oil?

Or...do you hit the starter button, and only get a CLICK?

T.C.

[Bulldog9]

Gents, I pretty much left the XS forum world in 1999-2000, and clearly the cult has grown strong.... I think its great and am learning much. I've seen a few threads on this mod, and am wondering why?

[TopCatGr58]

Uhhhh Dog, which mod, the hyd. clutch, the tube/tubeless mod, or final drive mod....three were mentioned!
T.C.

Gents, I pretty much left the XS forum world in 1999-2000, and clearly the cult has grown strong.... I think its great and am learning much. I've seen a few threads on this mod, and am wondering why?

[crazy steve]

1) ....Lastly I have gotten spare wheels for my bike and noticed that the rear wheel has 3 holes like valve stem holes. I assume it was something to stop the tire from spining on the rim if an inner tube was used. Can I just install 3 valve stems and use a tubless tire on this rim? Anyone tried this? Also are the rotors all the same front left, front right, and rear?

It should be noted that if you have a wheel that had the bead locks originally (three holes...) it is a 17" 'standard' wheel, not the 16" the Specials originally came with. The '78-early '79 standards were the only bikes equipped with these wheels. To use this wheel, you also three other parts; the two 'standard' axle spacers, and the 'standard' steel caliper bracket. Trying to install without these parts will result in serious caliper/rotor misalignment. Here's what they look like...
[IMG][/IMG]
Special 16" parts on the left....

[WMarshy]

Yes you can use the early rear tube type rim as tubeless. Crazy Steve checked them and they are identical except for the 2 extra holes. I just modified one of these rims by using a 3/8-16 tap (no drilling required) and two 3/8X3/8 set screws coated with RTV, worked fine. Three valve stems would work though.

Thanks Phil, I'm thinking a 3/8's set screw might be cheaper and easier to find than 2 valve stems... I can dig up a tap, for some reason I was under the impression you were using npt thread... must be I didn't read it correctly the first time. Do you think the red lock tight thread sealer will be enough to seal the plug air tight?

Hey George,

Crazy Steve did some research/comparisons, and posted them recently, see these threads for info so you can make up your own mind/decision about the tube to tubeless conversion!

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...t=tubeless+rim

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...t=tubeless+rim

As Phil just stated, you can tap them and use threaded plugs, OR you can get some bolts/nuts/washers and JB Weld or silicone sealant, many ways to seal them, just keep in mind the weight and the balance thereafter.

I meant to search for the thread on the kick starter mod, but I remember someone finding that the NON-kick starter bikes were missing a special ratchet type part(s) needed for the kick starter gear to GRAB the starter motor shaft at that point, and so it wouldn't work UNLESS you split the cases to swap out that shaft/part....more trouble than it's worth UNLESS you were going to split the cases anyways!?

When you say your starter is IFFY, just how so...like does it NOT grab sometimes...just spins the starter motor? That can be a symptom that the starter clutch may be wearing, or it could be very thick viscosity oil in very cold weather(common occurance), or could be the use of synthetic oil?

Or...do you hit the starter button, and only get a CLICK?

T.C.

TC, thanks for pointing out the info on the rims. FYI, the question regarding the hydraulic clutch mod was made in 2010...

Gents, I pretty much left the XS forum world in 1999-2000, and clearly the cult has grown strong.... I think its great and am learning much. I've seen a few threads on this mod, and am wondering why?

Well... if you have ever had the pleasure of messing around with a tube and bead locks then you would understand. I've only had the pleasure once and if given the option I would rather not have to mess with them. Since its easy to convert the tube rim to tubeless the real question becomes why not? Besides, all the new rear tires I've seen are tubeless!

[WMarshy]

It should be noted that if you have a wheel that had the bead locks originally (three holes...) it is a 17" 'standard' wheel, not the 16" the Specials originally came with. The '78-early '79 standards were the only bikes equipped with these wheels. To use this wheel, you also three other parts; the two 'standard' axle spacers, and the 'standard' steel caliper bracket. Trying to install without these parts will result in serious caliper/rotor misalignment. Here's what they look like...
[IMG][/IMG]
Special 16" parts on the left....

Thanks for clarifying Steve, I guess I should have pointed out that I was resurrecting an old post! Lol. I don't think the original creator is still waiting around for the answer. Good info though, at some point all the posts will be interconnected with links to relevant topics...

[WMarshy]

Yes you can use the early rear tube type rim as tubeless. Crazy Steve checked them and they are identical except for the 2 extra holes. I just modified one of these rims by using a 3/8-16 tap (no drilling required) and two 3/8X3/8 set screws coated with RTV, worked fine. Three valve stems would work though.

Sorry, don't want to seem like I'm beating a dead horse... but, I see now that Steve was using a 1/4" npt pipe plug... Im quite sure I will be going with a 3/8 set screw tomorrow and using some red lock tight to seal the thread and some JB Weld for filler as necessary.