My new XJ...

[gringojason]

So I bought the XJ11 off of this forum a few weeks ago and have been swamped with work and other things. In the meantime though, it has become by daily driver and is running well. Besides a slipping issue (in 1st gear, just before 4k RPM), I haven't had any issues. It is really solid. Here are some pics I took…

http://livefitrevolution.com/?page_id=472

In the meantime, I also bought some parts on the forum off a parted out XJ. A new seat, new instrument panel, and the turn signal/choke left handlebar assembly, which I am going to install ASAP. Aside for the new parts, here is a list of known issues that I want to tackle…

1) Fix the clutch from slipping.
2) Adjust the carbs. It is running rich now with the dented header, so I would like to get them adjusted properly.
3) Fix the rear brake spring. Right now the rear brake does not trigger the brake light because the spring is stretched out.
4) Replace the boots. Are they called carb boots? Exhaust boots? The PO mickey-moused them and I'd like to get new ones to install.
5) Fix the battery light on the instrument panel. The PO installed a gel battery and, even though it is new, it triggers the battery light on the instrument panel.
6) Engine chain? There is the chain inside the engine that is rattling that I was told I can adjust.

So, from my lack of terminology, you can tell I am new at this. I have never adjusted carbs on anything, or for that matter, any of the stuff I listed. My Dad is a bike guy with a full slew of tools, so I plan on taking advantage of his tools and help. As I tackle these items I'll be searching of this forum for guidance on each specific fix. If you have any overall suggestions, such as the order in which I should address these, it would be appreciated. Thanks…

[Eric_XJ]

So I bought the XJ11 off of this forum a few weeks ago and have been swamped with work and other things. In the meantime though, it has become by daily driver and is running well. Besides a slipping issue (in 1st gear, just before 4k RPM), I haven't had any issues. It is really solid. Here are some pics I took…

http://livefitrevolution.com/?page_id=472

In the meantime, I also bought some parts on the forum off a parted out XJ. A new seat, new instrument panel, and the turn signal/choke left handlebar assembly, which I am going to install ASAP. Aside for the new parts, here is a list of known issues that I want to tackle…

1) Fix the clutch from slipping.
2) Adjust the carbs. It is running rich now with the dented header, so I would like to get them adjusted properly.
3) Fix the rear brake spring. Right now the rear brake does not trigger the brake light because the spring is stretched out.
4) Replace the boots. Are they called carb boots? Exhaust boots? The PO mickey-moused them and I'd like to get new ones to install.
5) Fix the battery light on the instrument panel. The PO installed a gel battery and, even though it is new, it triggers the battery light on the instrument panel.
6) Engine chain? There is the chain inside the engine that is rattling that I was told I can adjust.

So, from my lack of terminology, you can tell I am new at this. I have never adjusted carbs on anything, or for that matter, any of the stuff I listed. My Dad is a bike guy with a full slew of tools, so I plan on taking advantage of his tools and help. As I tackle these items I'll be searching of this forum for guidance on each specific fix. If you have any overall suggestions, such as the order in which I should address these, it would be appreciated. Thanks…

Welcome from one new member to another ! I recently purchased and XJ1100 as well. There are a few good write up's on carb syncing and a number of other fixes for the problems you listed. Most can be found here <---- Click the word here.

Anything you can't find, send me a PM and I'll check my factory service manual and send you page scans if needed to help you get her road worthy.

Congrats on the purchase !

-Eric

[fredintoon]

Hi Jason,
nice bike, you did good.
Is the clutch slipping or is it jumping out of first gear?
Only #4 carb can be affected by the whackin' great dent in #4 pipe. If that's the stock double walled pipe it's just about unfixable. If it's an aftermarket single wall a cut'n'weld job can work if you don't mind the welds showing.
Betcha your dad has a better class of brake switch spring in his parts box.
If the boots don't leak you could black tape the red stuff?
Timing chain adjustment is easy but you must do it exactly like the book sez or it won't work right.
Stupid option anyway, take the effin' bulb out.
What I reckon is, first adjust the timing chain. The other things can be a pest but a timing chain jumping a tooth will be a disaster.

[CatatonicBug]

The battery light is coming on because there is a sensor in some batteries (not most of them) that warns when the fluid level is low. There is a tech tip for eliminating that light when switching to a unsensored (not uncensored) battery. Easy fix.

From your list, 2-6 can be done in a single afternoon. Not sure about the slipping until we know what the cause it. As Fred said, if the carb boots aren't leaking, you can repair them. Plasti-dip is a commonly used solution. They are double-walled, and it's normally the outer wall that gets cracked. If you're just looking to replace them because they look old, I understand that too.

[cywelchjr]

2) Adjust the carbs. It is running rich now with the dented header, so I would like to get them adjusted properly.
3) Fix the rear brake spring. Right now the rear brake does not trigger the brake light because the spring is stretched out.
5) Fix the battery light on the instrument panel. The PO installed a gel battery and, even though it is new, it triggers the battery light on the instrument panel.

The items I left above should be pretty simple. Check the tech tips for how to disable the battery light, they are under the xs11 info at the top of the screen, just hover and use the menu.

I had the same problem with the brake spring, just take a pair of needle nose pliers and put a twist in the straight part to shorten it. Adjust the twist (bend) to get the right length, it's not pretty but it's a 5 minute fix that has lasted me a year and a half now.

For the rich problem because of the dent, you need to fix the dent, not tune the carbs to the dent. If you don't fix the dent, nothing you do will really make things really right, but if you fix the dent you just might be done.

Feel free to ask all the questions you need to get the knowledge to do things right (or at least efficiently and well), we are all glad to help.

PS, don't threaten to hardtail it or Fred might beat you up. And certainly don't take off the front brakes, then all of us will dogpile on you.

[xj11john]

Nice bike, really like that seat cover job!

As the other have said, do a search and you should find most of the answers, but if you have anything you get stumped on just make a post.

Happy, and safe riding...

[trbig]

Stupid option anyway, take the effin' bulb out.

Sounds like a good idea for the battery bulb, but there isn't one. It's a liquid crystal display that says "Battery" along with other things as it does a self check every time you start it. If anything fails after this startup check, (Charging, brake fluid low, headlight, etc.) you get a blinky red light you have to turn off. I guess you could unplug the blinking red light, but that also comes on when something happens or something like low fuel. It's just better to hit a button twice to turn it off every time for many of the folks.

Looking at the sidecover and that pipe, it looks to have been laid down somewhat lightly. There is a way to fix that pipe since you obviously aren't worried about saving the chrome, but the time and welding involved would make it easier to just buy another right side header/collector. Until you do, you are going to have issues with that #4.

On the subject of carbs, the XJ has the YICS system that basically interconnects all the intakes of all 4 carbs. It's designed to keep the bike's carbs in tune for a longer time than the XS. If one carb is down some from the others, it can draw off the other 3 to keep it going. This means there's a special tool needed to block off this connection between the carbs. One of the members on here sells a well made one for @ $20 if I remember right. Otherwise, there would be no way to adjust the carbs or know if a carb was drawing from the rest or not. You have to get them individualized first.

The brake spring can be adjusted. You just pull more spring on either end through the hole it goes through, then bend it up to keep it there. BUT... it may be fine and the switch plunger may just be sticky/gummed up with oil/road film etc. I would give it a good cleaning first, then adjust the spring if needed.

New carb intake boots are available for somewhere between 80-100 bucks. That cost gives people reason to try to find an alternative. Many get a can of Plasti-Dip that you coat tool handles and such with and put several layers of that on them with drying time between coats. Some use black RTV and slather liberally on them and let that set up. These boots are actually metal, with a lining of rubber on the inside and out, so deep cracks, though maybe an eyesore, may still be functioning just fine. One way to tell is to spray some ether or carb cleaner around them with it running. If it changes the rpm, then you have a vacuum leak somewhere.

Adjusting the cam chain is a pretty simple task, but many don't realize that the bolt that holds the plunger stationary after the adjustment is VERY susceptable to stripping. The adjuster housing is fairly soft aluminum and it's sometimes hard to find the medium between something that will actually hold the plunger in place on a hard decel (Which puts the most pressure against it) and the point where it strips out. There is a torque spec on it.. like 7.2 lbs, but don't quote me. Many have gone to an automatic ratcheting adjuster, so there's no need to adjust it any more after that... until your cam chain stretches beyond limits. If you are hearing a chain rattling sound at idle, it could be the main HyVo chain. If carbs are out of synch and it isn't idling really well, it can make that bounce around a bit, but it shouldn't do it once you're under way and riding.. just at idle.


Tod

[Yahman]

That would be me.

On the subject of carbs, the XJ has the YICS system that basically interconnects all the intakes of all 4 carbs. It's designed to keep the bike's carbs in tune for a longer time than the XS. If one carb is down some from the others, it can draw off the other 3 to keep it going. This means there's a special tool needed to block off this connection between the carbs. One of the members on here sells a well made one for @ $20 if I remember right. Otherwise, there would be no way to adjust the carbs or know if a carb was drawing from the rest or not. You have to get them individualized first.

Tod

You can get that tool from the link in my signature below, or you can search for me (bent-biker) on eBay and you will find it there.

Ride safe,
Larry

[XJOK2PLAY]

Hi, GringoJason...
Welcome, and congrats on the XJ!

I recently did the little mod on the battery to mine, so here's how ya do it:
1) Clip the little wire that goes down into the center of the battery (if it hasn't already been disconnected since the new battery was installed...)
2) Install a ring connector on that end large enough that the positive battery bolt will fit through.
3) About 6" up from that end, snip the wire into, and install a 2000 ohm resistor in the line... (you can get them @ Radio Shack.) Just solder it in between where you snip it into. Insulate it.
4) Attach the ring connector to the positive post of the battery.

That should trick it into thinking everything's ok, and stop the annoying light.

Yamaha had some great updates made to the XJ, but that warning light WASN'T one of them! LOL What a pita!

[SFerinTEXAS]

Battery sensor

install a 2000 ohm resistor in the line

I've read this tech tip long before I got my XJ last year and one of my questions to the PO was if the probe was still there. He or his PO had put a new battery in recently ( big plus) and the probe was not installed. Someone had put a terminal on the wire and he said it was ( not then) hooked to the pos bat post. Long story short during my initial test rides I left it unhooked and had to kill the warning light each time I started it. Having picked up a spare gage cluster I decided to see what happened it I hooked the wire up. Did a mileage run of about 140 miles . No light. Came to the conclusion that the Tech Tip was about creating the same conditions as the original signal to the cluster. Now I believe all that probe whats to know is lack of voltage not a specific voltage. When the water level falls below the probe there is no voltage and that is what it is looking for. If I find any contrary effects during my ongoing shake down I will report it asap