leaky cover

[b.walker5]

Dunno if they're still available but check this thread for alloy cam plugs. http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...m+plugs&page=3 Pics are half way down the page.

[jamak]

lights are on...

Thanks men. I'll give it a shot. They still feel pliable-not hard-so I guess we'll see what we see. The research goes on...

[jamak]

leaky cover

OK guys. I'm about to reassembly point with the valve cover, and I don't mind admitting I'm a little intimidated not using a gasket. First time I ever put anything together w/o one. Last second advice?
I'm thinking to permatex the head and set the cover down on it, instead of vice versa. It seems it would work cleaner.
I'll be to the task in about an hour, and yeah, I should have just got a gasket if I was gonna get cold feet. But I'm here now.
Anybody feeling compassionate today?

[DGXSER]

If your using the standard RTV thatI have used, then it will not drip no matter how you do it. Use a small bead in the middle of the surface on either head or cover, I put it on the cover myself. Then follow the directions for cure times and torquing.

[jamak]

leaky cover

I'll be using the black permatex(high temp/oil resistant). I spent tonight prepping both surfaces well, so it should go smoothly. I had a heck of a time getting the cover off, that's why I was thinking to apply to the head. But if you're careful, I guess either is cool.
Thanks for replying. In 40+ years of wrenching, I've never gone gasketless. A little moral support is appreciated.
Do you know the correct amount of fork oil for a G? My Clymers lists 2 models, and they take different amounts, but neither is the G. I'm trying to get rid of a squirrelly cornering issue that could be a lot of things. I evened out the air pressure in the forks, the wheel and neck bearings feel OK, and the fork oil is next. The tire isn't great, and that may be the whole deal. But the forks probably haven't been changed in years anyway. I'll check the rim when I swap tires. Thanks again.

[CatatonicBug]

There are 2 kinds of forks on the XS's - Standards, and Specials. The G is a Standard, so you can follow the directions for the Standard model (E, F, G, or H) from the manual.

[jamak]

leaky cover

Thanks CB. I'm still getting familiar with the models-among other things. I appreciate everyone's patience on here.

[DGXSER]

Hmmm...Did the standards also have the air pressure forks? For some reason I thought that was specials only.

Also, take note as they volume listed in the manual changes for standards and for specials from the 78-79 models, to the 80-81 models. So look in the supplement section of your Clymers.

[CatatonicBug]

For some reason I thought that was specials only.

I thought so too... I just looked on benefiscal, and it shows the G and H had air forks. Can any G/H owners confirm this?

[bikerphil]

The only non-air forks were the '78-9 Standard, which had a 3 position preload adjuster instead with progressive (not the brand) WOUND springs. Air forks were a phase in the 80's.

[jamak]

leaky cover

The PO told me this front end had been swapped out at a rally where his fork seals blew out in a major way. Another guy who lived close had a spare. This one still has the headlight brackets attached, along with the nest of related wires stuffed into a bag.
While it's apart, I may get into that as well as the cover and fork oil. It's already turned into painting the fairing support and making some rubber mounts for it. I'm still a little unsure on the cover install, because I had such a b---- of a time getting it off. I'll just have to test fit it a few times. If not, the drawing board awaits.

[DGXSER]

Pull the gas tank off, pull the plug wires up through the frame so they stay out of the way. Perhaps do the same with the clutch cable and the throttle cable or use a wire tie or similar to pull them out of the way.

You may not have oticed, but the valve cover is not symmetrical, there is a right and left side to it as the cam chain is off center, so note which way it goes. Try putting it on dry a few times to get it worked out before you put the RTV in place. Really, it is not THAT big of a deal if you smear a spot on the RTV sealant. Just add a dab where it got mashed by lifting the cover and putting it in.

[jamak]

leaky cover

Next time I'll make sure I put out some cheese to go with the whine.
Thanks for the patient advice, and all who responded. Old dogs can learn new tricks, but it takes a lotta coaxin' to convince 'em it's a trick they wanna learn.
If this baby holds up, it's a beauty. If it doesn't, I'll know my technique needs work. Next time I'll take CB's cue on the Right Stuff.
Thanks again.

[DiverRay]

On the fairing mounts, put the rubber between the fairing and the mount. DO NOT put any rubber between the mount and the frame, as that NEEDS to be a solid mount. If you allow a little play between the frame and mount, it will be magnified at the fairing, and cause a LOT of problems. Also realize the fairing will make the engine noise seem much loader than it really is.

[jamak]

lights are on...

Thanks Ray. I guessed that frame isolation would make me the owner of the worlds first mobile paint mixer, so I did just as you suggested. It seems to work fine, but the road test is today, for that and my gasketless valve cover.
I also made a couple of horn mount spacers to replace my cracked ones, and fixed my loose gauge faces my adding a bonded washer under the acorn nut and it took up the slack nicely. We'll see how clever I was later. Thanks again.