leaky cover

[jamak]

leaky cover

I thought many of these were neoprene, or something similar. Paper? NFG.
Point made. I bought the black Permatex today, and I'll use it for everything.
I think you're right about the petcock too. The right one is weeping just a tad.
I've gotta get squared away on ordering parts here though. There seem to be so many sites, and I asked him about that fuse box fix that TC sells,but no response as yet.
Ah, you know the deal; new bike, unfamiliar marque. It takes a while to get your act together.This site and all the guys on it are the **** though, I have to say. I've been riding since 1966, seen a lot of 'brotherhoods' come and go.
Sticking together with the focus on the machines were what got bike clubs started to begin with. This site comes closer than most of the wannabe's I've seen. Thanks again.

[b.walker5]

It comes from a STRONG common interest. We dont always agree, or see eye to eye on some things, but none of that really matters when the core bond is the bikes we all love.

[jamak]

leaky cover

Apologies to the moderators for the improper language.

CB, you mention a second gear fix. Can you expand on that? My shifts up and down thru 2nd are less than crisp. I have to adjust my clutch, it engages at the end of the throw, but doesn't seem to slip. I was thinking that was it. Maybe the tranny's in the mix?

[CatatonicBug]

Apologies to the moderators for the improper language.

CB, you mention a second gear fix. Can you expand on that? My shifts up and down thru 2nd are less than crisp. I have to adjust my clutch, it engages at the end of the throw, but doesn't seem to slip. I was thinking that was it. Maybe the tranny's in the mix?

The 2nd gear fix is needed when you try to shift into gear and it either won't go into gear (makes LOTS of grinding noises when you try), or when you give it gas, it falls out of gear, back into the previous gear. It often sounds like a machine gun going off inside the tranny as the gears are actually trying to push each other apart instead of staying meshed together.

Shifting these bikes always includes a "clunk" between gears. They shift like Russian Tractors. As long as that is the only noise you get when shifting, the gears are fine.

If, when you give it gas, there is no "noise", but also reduced power to the wheel, then your clutch is slipping. It's not providing the needed friction to transfer the engine's power to the tranny, and back to the wheel.

[jamak]

leaky cover

Thanks CB. These trannys do take some getting used to. I had a R100 Beemer that made a similar noise-I figured it's the shaft drive.
The clutch doesn't seem to slip, but man, it grabs right at the end of the lever's throw. Here's a related question.
The guy who sold me this bike said the vacuum advance that kicks in @ 5K rpm is like a mini turbo. Should I be looking for something approximating that?
As it is, I hear the motor rev up, but the pick-up is mild. I thought this was the clutch slipping, but I watched the tac last time out, and it didn't peg itself like it would if the clutch let go. A little exaggerated salesmanship?

[Crazcnuk]

Very.

The vacuum advance has nothing to do with power. It's there for fuel economy. It's probably one of the reasons the XS is rated as one of the most fuel-efficient bikes, of this displacement, at that time.

The centrifugal advance is the one that is there to help develop power.

Technically, if you hold the throttle wide open the vac adv wont move, as you have little to vacuum. However, when you let the throttle off the unit will pull to it's max range.

Most drag racing vehicles have the vac av unit disabled or removed. It is the leading cause of engines exlpoding just after the finish line.

As for the clutch grabbing at the last moment, have you tried loosening the cable a bit?

[ManagerMike]

Just a bit of input from a fella that has been fixin' cars and trucks for a living for 25 years, I have and still do use permatex anerobic gasket material/sealant anywhere there is oil to be sealed. I first discovered it as a factory recommended sealant for the front differential on 4wd GM trucks (and the transfer case as well) back in '92. I have used it on the clutch cover on my '78 eleven without trouble.
A very small amount is all that is needed, as only the final thin film between the mating surfaces is all that ever "cures". Only the material that is deprived of oxygen (anerobic) ever sets up (even the unused portion of an uncapped tube remains usable for years in the toolbox).
Other materials also work very well, but few will let you clean up the excess with a rag as easily or are as forgiving when cleaning up a mating surface previously sealed with this stuff, and it will set up even in the presence of oil on the mating surface.
On a similar note, where a gasket is desired (i.e. carb bowls etc.) or preferred, a thin film of anti-sieze on the gasket will keep it from sticking to the mating suface indefinitely, allowing for a reusable gasket every time or at least a no-scraping-needed removal of the used gasket.

[jamak]

leaky cover

OK on the centrifugal advance-thanks for the clarification. So is the CA supposed to create an appreciable surge @ 5,000 rpm? I've haven't done a lot of riding in that range yet. I want to make sure it's squared away, before I test the limits.
I did try a handlebar adjustment, and it helped a little. I'll do a final at the clutch this weekend.
Good info on the sealer. I wish I'd had a source like this when I bought my first Panhead back in '71; I could have saved a lot of hard lessons. But those are the one's you never forget, and the net was 20 years away.
Thanks for the input.

[Crazcnuk]

Not really a surge. What it does is advance the timing, as the rpms increase, in order to start the ignition process earlier to keep the fuel explosion happening at the same point in the crank rotation.

Without CA, the fuel would be exploding later and later and thus you would be losing power and efficiency.

At one time engines had a manual timing system where you would pick a speed, then adjust the timing, as you drove, to get it running the best.

The XS should pull you by the seat of the pants from about 2500-3000 rpm all the way to just about redline (tach), where it begins to lose power.

[jamak]

leaky cover

OK, but why does the motor make noise @ 5,000 like it's kicking into another gear? You get this roar like you're gonna get shot out of a cannon, and it's more like a popgun.
One last question about the valve cover fix. It's looking more and more like the cam caps that are the culprits here. Can the permatex be used in their stead too, as with the gasket? In conjunction with?
I really don't like to keep asking all this stuff, but you guys are the only reliable source I've found. Thanks.

[CatatonicBug]

One last question about the valve cover fix. It's looking more and more like the cam caps that are the culprits here. Can the permatex be used in their stead too, as with the gasket? In conjunction with?
I really don't like to keep asking all this stuff, but you guys are the only reliable source I've found. Thanks.

No problem withe questions! That's what this site is all about. You don't ask, and you don't learn!

The cam caps can't be replaced by permatex, but a thin film around them when replacing them is not a bad idea.

[Crazcnuk]

"OK, but why does the motor make noise @ 5,000 like it's kicking into another gear?"

No idea. PO hid a turbo under the seat?

Without hearing the noise it's pretty hard to say.

[jamak]

leaky cover

I'll have to investigate the 'turbo' further, and get back to you.

CB, on those cam caps. I really didn't think PT could replace them, but have you ever tried reusing old ones, if they're in good shape, with some PT?
I have no problem buying new, but I wanted to do this job Sat., and no way to get them that quick. Wishful thinking, or resourceful repair?
I don't like to mouse things. Just want to know your experience.

[CatatonicBug]

I watched a set get replaced at the MOTM rally, and they ended up getting blown out again. Turning them around backward in the holes managed to keep them held in though. That is the limit to my personal experience with those caps.

[bikerphil]

have you ever tried reusing old ones, if they're in good shape, with some PT?

Yes, you can re-use the cam plugs. Just clean all mating surfaces and RTV 'em in. They shouldn't blow out unless your crankcase breather is blocked somehow. Let 'em dry overnite.