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  • safe shaft angle

    ive made my frame into a rigid

    save your comments on how a ruined another XS please

    and the guy who did it, put it lower then i wanted

    got it put back together last night, took it for a test ride, and the u-joint was making some noise

    not a lot, but it was there, and when i had my suspension, there was obviously no noise

    whats is a safe angle for the shaft?

    you guys with lowered rears, could you post a pic of your swingarm with some weight on it so i can see the angle please?

    i saw 'shops' rigid, and his swingarm is pretty much level

    is that the lowest safe angle of that swingarm

    thanks for your help

    also, ive got a lot of 80' special parts laying around, send me a PM if you need something, i might have it
    1980 XS1100SG - almost done

  • #2
    save your comments on how a ruined another XS please
    NP...every bike this is done to makes mine a teeny bit more valuable. Thanks.
    Guy

    '78E

    Quidquid latine dictum sit, altum videtur

    Comment


    • #3
      glad i can help you out then
      1980 XS1100SG - almost done

      Comment


      • #4
        I thought about going ridged on mine but, id like to see a picture of yours if possible?

        I can get you that picture. soon....
        1980 XS1100 SG

        When in doubt, knock 'em out!

        I will not argue with idiots. They will only try to drag me down to their level and beat me with experience.

        Comment


        • #5
          have you got a pic,
          you should be able to get away
          with a bit of an angle on the shaft,
          were the uni joints in good condition?
          pete


          new owner of
          08 gen2 hayabusa


          former owner
          1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
          zrx carbs
          18mm float height
          145 main jets
          38 pilots
          slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
          fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

          [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

          Comment


          • #6
            As a rule, 10% is the MOST angle you want for a "solid". The ideal is less than 5% for a shaft that doesn't move up and down. Stock goes through a range of motion, but the range is what keeps it from going out too fast.
            I would also like to see a picture of the bike. Hardtail isn't my thing, but I DO like the looks, and each of us has our OWN bike, made the way WE want it!
            Ray Matteis
            KE6NHG
            XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
            XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

            Comment


            • #7
              Personally, I'd be more concerned with the shaft/final drive joint. There's no u-joint there, but the spline has 'play' in it to allow the shaft to move a degree or two out of parallel under suspension compression/rebound. The centerline of the u-joint and swingarm pivots are not exactly the same, so that shaft does 'move'. On the stock bike, the swingarm pretty much sits level, but running that spline continually 'off-axis' can't be good for it...

              I know from my hot-rodding driveshaft adventures that 5 degrees of angle on a u-joint is considered about the max for decent life, and 2-3 is better...

              '78E original owner
              Last edited by crazy steve; 04-29-2010, 10:59 PM.
              Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

              '78E original owner - resto project
              '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
              '82 XJ rebuild project
              '80SG restified, red SOLD
              '79F parts...
              '81H more parts...

              Other current bikes:
              '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
              '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
              '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
              Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
              Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

              Comment


              • #8
                the shaft moves up and down with the suspension travel,
                i guess if you measured the shafts angle from level to full suspension
                travel that should give you a rough idea.

                and as crazystave said, id make sure the final drive and shaft are in alignment.
                Last edited by petejw; 04-29-2010, 11:04 PM.
                pete


                new owner of
                08 gen2 hayabusa


                former owner
                1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
                zrx carbs
                18mm float height
                145 main jets
                38 pilots
                slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
                fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

                [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by ambidextrous View Post

                  save your comments on how a ruined another XS please
                  Okay.
                  '81 XS1100 SH

                  Melted to the ground during The Valley Fire

                  Sep. 12th 2015

                  RIP

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    1.5"?

                    When I was looking at my options for new shocks, I wanted to make sure I didn't go too much shorter or longer with them. Stock shock length (on the E, at least) is 12.5". I believe I read in a few places that changing more than 1.5" would introduce too much angle to the system. That seemed to be the consensus, at least.

                    I would think that there would be more stress at the U-joint, though. Since the drive shaft and final drive are bolted together, I wouldn't think that there would be much play at that connection. All the "bending down" would occur at the U-joint. That would essentially be the pivot point, and past that would just be rigid (due to the alignment being held steady by the bolts).

                    That's just my $0.02, though. If there's something that I've failed to think about, pipe up. -I'm always looking to learn more.
                    -Do what makes you happy.

                    '79 Honda CB 750 K (2)
                    '78 XS 11 E - "Rhona"
                    ...and a 2nd E, for the goodies on it.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Erik the Red View Post
                      ...Since the drive shaft and final drive are bolted together, I wouldn't think that there would be much play at that connection. All the "bending down" would occur at the U-joint. That would essentially be the pivot point, and past that would just be rigid (due to the alignment being held steady by the bolts)...
                      The driveshaft moves more than you think; the FD is bolted to the swingarm, but the shaft is just a splined connection at the FD. Here's a pic of my modified swingarm before I covered the hole...

                      [IMG][/IMG]

                      This is with the suspension 'at rest'; the shaft is parallel to the swingarm and the FD, so the shaft/splines are 'lined up' and I have an even gap around the driveshaft. I don't have a pic with the suspension compressed, but with the stock shock fully compressed, the gap at the bottom of the slot disappears, roughly .100". Shorter shocks and you'll get even more movement. Like I said, running that splined joint that far out of alignment continuously can't be good for it...

                      '78E original owner
                      Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

                      '78E original owner - resto project
                      '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
                      '82 XJ rebuild project
                      '80SG restified, red SOLD
                      '79F parts...
                      '81H more parts...

                      Other current bikes:
                      '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
                      '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
                      '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
                      Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
                      Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        hmm...

                        I'll buy that. Either way, we're in agreement that it's not good to have too much deflection in the swingarm. -It took me reading through your post a couple times to be able to visualize what you were talking about. And after I thought about it, the teeth/splines on the driveshaft (final drive end) are only maybe a half inch deep/wide/whatever.

                        Based on that, I would believe it has the ability to wiggle a little bit. Running it while it's not straight into the FD would increase the pressure on a smaller area of the mating surfaces and increase wear. I could see it even starting to shave metal from both the final drive and the driveshaft.

                        ambidextrous: if you do decide to run it like this, I would think you'd want to pull the final drive off and check for unusual/excessive wear.
                        -Do what makes you happy.

                        '79 Honda CB 750 K (2)
                        '78 XS 11 E - "Rhona"
                        ...and a 2nd E, for the goodies on it.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          thanks for the input, i appreciate it

                          im bringing it back to him tomorrow morning, and i think im gonna have him set it to just about level with the middle drive

                          not sure if that explains it properly, but i think it does a good enough job

                          then, ill ride it again, and it should hopefully be quiet

                          well, the shaft and u-joint should be quiet

                          the big itself is super loud right now, because my exhaust is not finished

                          heres a pic that i hope will post here



                          this is before ive painted a lot of parts, and cleaned a lot of stuff up on it

                          its the only pic i have of it on the ground and not the center stand since the work has been done

                          its just too damn low though, and needs to come up

                          the seat, if anyone was gonna ask, is from choppershox.com
                          1980 XS1100SG - almost done

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Your bike looks good. I hope it turns out alright.
                            Joe


                            78XS1100

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              got it back today

                              looks way better, and i think it might work out

                              ill know later, im gonna be putting it back together again and going for a test ride

                              but its set just about level now

                              he also took care of the side stand for me

                              cut it down a little bit, and added a foot

                              glad he took care of that too
                              1980 XS1100SG - almost done

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