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**DGXSER** · 04-28-2010, 09:04 AM

Originally posted by geneborg View Post

1) Two carbs have plastic floats and two have brass floats. I believe I have two spare plastic floats. Comments on going with two and two or all plastic? I also know that the float heights are different. Suggestions on the best heights for both plastic and brass floats.

I would want the floats the same all across if I could. I would also suggest switching to the XV920 float valves and seats for the viton tipped valves. As to height, I do not think you change the float height for swapping the floats, still set them to factory settings.

Originally posted by geneborg View Post

2) The Main Nozzles were also, I believe, mixed. They have the 3/2 holes nozzles in carbs # 1 & 2 and the 4/4 nozzles in carbs. # 3 & 4. Site research shows that the less holed nozzles should be in the center two carbs for cooler running. Some reinforcement comments appreciated?

Got me a little confused here. As far as I know, Yamaha only changed the main jets on the two inner carbs to be bigger, not the nozzles/Needle valves. Those should be the same all the way across. And Yamaha only tried that trick on the 80-81 model carbs, not the 78-79 models. But then, I've never owned the early model carbs.

Originally posted by geneborg View Post

3) Does anyone know where I can get replacement idle mixture screws/pilot screws without buying and entire kit? OR I have also read on the site that members have machined the points back onto the screws. If I do this should I not put slights blunter points on the two screws going back into the carbs with the now slightly buggered holes? What luck have members had repointing the screws?

I've not done the machining bit, but some members whose opinions I value highly have stated they have done so with success. As to how pointy to make it, well, the differences will only change how many turns out you need the screw to achieve the correct mixture. I think places like MikesXS, DennisKirk, or Z1 Enterprises have been quoted as selling those screws seperately before.

**psycoreefer** · 04-28-2010, 09:51 AM

I can confirm that the middle emulsion tubes (the big brass tube that the main jet screws into) are different on 79 carbs, or at least they were on my 79 carbs. They should have numbers stamped in them 266x2 and 300x2 if I remember correctly. If you look at threads I started you should find one where I talk about which was in which carbs if you want to confirm.

I would also want all the floats the same, although you can make it work with different ones, you'll just have to do the "external method" to verify that the actuall fuel level is the same all the way across. A while back someone posted that they tested with brass and plastic and found that the same measurement resulted in the same fuel height so may not be a big deal. Use the float height measurment for the 78/79 carbs, even if you go with plastic floats.

Idle screws are available from mikesxs, but by the time you pay for 4 screws and shipping you might be able to spend a little bit more and get full kits from georgefix on e-bay.

**geneborg** · 04-29-2010, 07:33 AM

Carburetor Questions

These are carbs from a '79 so they are the older ones with the exposed Idle Mixture/Pilot Screw.
I also have a XS650 and I believe I read somewhere that there is a different float height setting for the plastic vrs Brass floats. Is my memory accurate and would this not also apply to the XS1100?
Any more thoughts from anyone on "turning" new points on the Idle Mixture Screw/Pilot screw. I read on the site to put them in a drill press and file/sand them down.
Could someone post a picture of what the Originals look like to give me a guide of what the points should look like. I will also relook on site.
gene borg in FL

**tinman905** · 04-29-2010, 07:48 AM

[QUOTE=psycoreefer;

Idle screws are available from mikesxs, but by the time you pay for 4 screws and shipping you might be able to spend a little bit more and get full kits from georgefix on e-bay.[/QUOTE]

Seems to be the quickest and easiest way to solve your trouble. With the kit you will get more bank for your buck. You will have a few spare parts left over for future needs or sell what you don't need and put that towards a couple of floats. 4 of the same floats is the best way to go.

**petejw** · 04-29-2010, 08:13 AM

Ive turned the mixture screws in a drill
before with limited success, id use it only to
get you out of trouble or until you get replacements,
because of the lack of taper at the broken bit the
mixture setting becomes real finicky and usually runs rich,
the more broken repaired ones you use the rougher the engine
is going to be.

the emulsion tubes with the least holes run in the middle
of the carbs and as you said it is to help the middle
cylinders stay cooler, but i thought with this set up the
main jets were larger in the middle as well.
what main jets have you got in the carbs?

**tarzan** · 04-29-2010, 09:22 AM

Trying to sand points on needles in a drill press will not give great results.
You could put them in a lathe and dial them in, but that would be a pain to
hold on to them well enough to cut them.You could do it, but is it worth the time?
Georgefix on EBAY is in Florida and it looks as though you are too.So shipping would be lightning fast.He sells the kits and you may be able to contact him and get just needles, however I have never seen him sell seperate parts. If your needles are broken, how are the float needles and seats and the gaskets? You may be dollars ahead to order the whole kits.
Just another option.
Tarzan

**DGXSER** · 04-29-2010, 11:12 AM

Gene,

I would also agree that Goergefix is a great supplier to use. He really seems to know these bikes and the parts needed on each year and model.

As to the floats, I have never owned the earlier model carbs but the rule I have always used is to tune for the carb. So if that model carb is to have a float height of 25.5 mm instead of 23mm then no matter what style of float you put in, plastic or metal, it should be set to 25.5 mm.