Pulled my air box today...:eek:

[draketrumpet]

So, finally got around to changing my middle & final oils (80w90 synthetic) and my funnel wouldn't fit in the middle drive, so I pulled the air box out for the first time.


looks like it's seen plenty o fuel. little damp and smells like it too. I've seen somewhere that you can wash the air filters...but I think this might be the original and exempt from washing...not to mention the seals on the top and bottom are...well...old.

Is the K&N YA-1400 the best to go with? Or I can get a "stock" filter from partsnmore.

When I do replace it, is this going to mess up the sync we just did on my carbs and idle adjustment?

I'll also have to see if I can figure out how fuel is getting back there

TIA for your very humble, always right opinions.

[WMarshy]

If your using stock exhaust then you shouldnt need to re-jet for the K&N. I would advise getting the K&N replacement, it will be a noticable difference over the old crappy one. Just remember, you have to clean the K&N and oil it about once a year so it requires the chem's to do that, the one you have is not washable. Im not sure of the exact part# so you should wait until someone more who knows chimes in. My guess about how gas is getting in your box is 2 fold. Leaky petcocks and float valves that arnt sealing 100%. Simplest solution to that is modify your petcocks to gain an off position and make sure you turn it off after riding.

[draketrumpet]

It may have been the petcocks. I rebuilt them a week ago, and one wasn't closing properly. As for the carbs...that's still a project to do sometime....I keep getting closer to them, so it won't be much longer, I just really want to wait until after finals.

I'm thinking I'll just stick this one back in and order the K&N tomorrow from autozone, or order it if not in stock (pending further opinions, of course).

[petejw]

whether the petcocks are leaking or not,
this wont cause the flooding in the air box,
they are flooding because fuel is leaking from the
needle and seat.

This will also cause the leaking carb to run rich
when the bike is running causing it to run erratically.
id be pulling the carbs and cleaning them.

Changing the air filter wont affect the sync,
but may affect the air/ fuel mixture.

[WMarshy]

whether the petcocks are leaking or not,
this wont cause the flooding in the air box,
they are flooding because fuel is leaking from the
needle and seat.

This will also cause the leaking carb to run rich
when the bike is running causing it to run erratically.
id be pulling the carbs and cleaning them.

Changing the air filter wont affect the sync,
but may affect the air/ fuel mixture.

If the bike is not running then two things have to happen for the air box to flood.
1. Float needle is not seating 100%
2. Fuel is still being supplied to the carb and allowing it to over fill the bowl. (Leaky petcocks)

If you have probelm #1 and not #2 then IMHO you wont have any gas leaking into the air box unless your float height is way off causing it flood when its running. In that case, you'd be luck to keep it idling.

[draketrumpet]

I do have a valve adjustment that needs to be made. At present, 1 & 4 create a negative and a positive vacuum (sucks and blows). I don't know if the blowing back would blow fuel back or not, but it seems possible to me. I mentioned it was moist. Per the manual's instructions, I ran the bike for 5 mins before changing the middle gear oil, so if it is getting to the air box only when running, I ran it just before taking it off.

Speaking of that valve issue...any volunteers? I've never opened an engine before, and would hate to kill something important.

[3Phase]

I've never opened an engine before, and would hate to kill something important.

Relax and take your time. It's not difficult but it can be a little intimidating at first, just don't drop anything down the cam chain tunnel. Just be careful and make sure you have a new valve cover gasket or your favorite gasket goop before you start.

After you loosen all of the valve cover bolts, rap the valve cover firmly around the edges with a rubber mallet or a hammer and a wooden dowel to break it loose from the cylinder head. There are some dowel pins that hold the cover in place so don't try to pound it off, just tap, rock and lift until it breaks loose all the way around and comes off. You might get lucky and the gasket won't break so you can use it again.

Since this will be your first time checking valves, follow the instructions in the manual but measure the clearances at least three times, in sequence, and write down the result each time for each valve. Obviously, the results should match.

Valves and parts can stick and give a false reading. After you check a valve's clearance, gently tap the valve bucket with a small hammer and a wooden dowel, then check it again before going on to the next valve. If the measurement changes slightly you may have a bent or sticking valve.

Take your time and don't drop anything down the cam chain tunnel.


Regards,

Scott

[skids]

The filter was "moist?" If you have some leaky petcocks + needle fuel valves then you would likely see puddles in the airbox or on the ground. You have to realize that the model E has metal tips on the needle valves making a metal-to-metal seal, so it isn't so damning to get a tiny amount of leakage. Really, if you are concerned about bent valves, do a compression test. Also, your bike would likely not fire with all 4 if one of the valves were leaking. Of course, if you want to remove the cover for a periodic valve check, you can check the alignment of the cams and cam bosses at Top Dead Center while you are at it.

[draketrumpet]

John was helping me do the sync, and it was just 1&4 that were both sucking and blowing. He's the one that said it was probably an issue with the valves closing properly. For all I know, the air filter is still moist from a week ago as it was the foam seals on top and bottom that were wet, but it definitely smelled of gas.

I'll throw this back on for now and order up a K&N one.

[TADracer]

Two things I might add.

First, if you are going with the K&N filter you must fix the fuel leakage first. Something about the K&N that I remember from years ago when I had one is if it sits in fuel for any period of time, next time you remove the cover to clean it, she will shrink on you and it is useless from then on.

Second, when you pop the valve cover off, you can remove the alignment dowels. This makes installing and removing the cover next time alot easier. If you spray the gasket with Pam, (instead of putting gasket sealer on) you might even get to reuse the gasket a few times and if you use a torque wrench set to about 7.5-8 pound feet tighten the 20 cap screws from the center out, the cover will not leak oil. On the valve cover the dowels are not necessary however, if you remove the head and cylinders or go any deeper into the engine, definately DO keep any dowels you find in place.

[3Phase]

I'll throw this back on for now and order up a K&N one.

+1 for skids and Tad -- if you haven't done it already, check the compression and fix any fuel leaks before you dive into the valves or buy a ~$50 air filter.

A friend in Grand Rapids likes to tell me there are only two seasons: winter and construction. You're pretty much done with winter so construction is upon you. Ride safe!


Regards,

Scott

[draketrumpet]

+1 for skids and Tad -- if you haven't done it already, check the compression and fix any fuel leaks before you dive into the valves or buy a ~$50 air filter.

A friend in Grand Rapids likes to tell me there are only two seasons: winter and construction. You're pretty much done with winter so construction is upon you. Ride safe!


Regards,

Scott

I meant that as, get the new one so that once I figure the fuel thing out, I'll have it to put in. I taped a piece of paper towel in the air box to see if fuel is still getting in there or if it was moist and smelly from before. It doesn't seem like it would get much of a chance to dry out when not in use if it ever did get wet.

For now, it rides fine...well better than ever after the stuff we did at MoM. So I'll not push tooooo hard and work through this stuff as able.

[Ken Talbot]

but I think this might be the original and exempt from washing...not to mention the seals on the top and bottom are...well...old.IA for your very humble, always right opinions.

Yes, that is an original "hairy foam" filter element - just like the one I am still using on Tsunami. I wash it and re-oil it regularly, and it works fine. If the foam seals look a bit tired, they can be replaced.

SWMBO's Purple Reign has a K&N serviceable element that may breathe a bit better, but it seems to me like the hairy foam element filters better.

YMMV...

[draketrumpet]

Yes, that is an original "hairy foam" filter element - just like the one I am still using on Tsunami. I wash it and re-oil it regularly, and it works fine. If the foam seals look a bit tired, they can be replaced.

SWMBO's Purple Reign has a K&N serviceable element that may breathe a bit better, but it seems to me like the hairy foam element filters better.

YMMV...

How do you wash it? scrub with a soft brush under running water or in a mild detergent? what kind of foam do you use to replace it?

thanks

[WMarshy]

This is how to clean a K&N. I would think if you use a brush you risk damage to the filter, even compressed air could damage it.