some does and donts please help

[BIG E]

I'm new to the xs 1100 I acquired a 78 from what I can tell run of the mil bike. It hadn't been tagged since 83 and sitting in a garage. Put gas to the carbs and fired and ran for a bit wow! I'd like to resto mod it because it was my grandfathers. So far it has new plugs oil all filters rear drive oil and battery new. The cars cleaned and the tank is getting lined. It runs and has surprising power. Now how hard can I run it? Are the motors stout? What's the biggest size rear tire that will fit? What should I lookout for? It has 11k on odometer. Compression is good in all cylinders. It will be getting carbs synched soon. Is it worth my time and money?

[WMarshy]

Hi BigE, and welcome to the addiction that is XS. It sounds like you have a nice bike to start from and with minimal things it will be a reliable bike. Other things I would be concerned about is making sure you change the oil in the middle gear box. You mentioned the rear dif already and engine but be aware there is a middle drive that takes the gear oil just like the Dif. If you werent aware, our clutches use the engines oil so its inportant to change it regularly and keep it clean. Oil is a sensitive tipic here and some recommend not using the automotive oil as it has friction modifiers that could induce clutch slip. As you will find, many peple will agree these engines are a bear and will take about anything you throw at them. Now, just FYI almost every question anyone would ever have about these bikes has already been asked and answered on this form. So before asking a question you may have take a min to use the search tool in the tread to see if there are answers to your question, if there isnt just ask and the gurus will answer. Some great first timer info about the XS Eleven can be found HERE. You might want to consider changing the break fluid and possibly cleaning/rebuilding calipers as necessary. Age is not kind to our break fluid in those rubber lines, often the break master cylinder get gummed up and your main concern should always be stopping this beast because she has fine legs. GL and welcome to the family. Now post dome pictures! This will explain how.

[draketrumpet]

Welcome! I'm new around here too. Picked up a 78 in Feb (it's the oldest one we know of on the forum, so let us know your serial number, maybe yours is older!)

I second, third, and fourth changing your brake fluid. I didn't do mine until my rear wheel locked up...boy that wasn't any fun. All better now.

[trbig]

Oil is a sensitive tipic here and some recommend not using the automotive oil as it has friction modifiers that could induce clutch slip.

Well.. not entirely accurate. Not all automotive oil is equal. On the back of the bottle of oil, there is an API donut like this...





Where this one says "Energy Conserving" on the bottom of the donut... is the type that has friction modifiers. Look for an oil you like that says nothing there on the bottom half of that donut.. it'll just be blank. Everyone has their favorite oil and it has been debated to death, but Castrol 20/50 seems to be the most popular.

As he stated, the middle drive is seperate from everything else. On the bottom side of the bike, look just past the rear of your oil pan and up a bit, and you'll see a drain plug for the middle drive. I think it's 18mm? *Warning*** Make sure you can remove the top filler plug with a 6mm allen wrench before you drain your middle drive. They sometimes seem to weld themselves in over time.

You mentioned tires... another subject about as beaten to death as oil. Everyone has a preference. I don't know of any of the brands that a 130 rear tire won't fit, but many of the 140's will work also as long as there isn't any raised white letters. You are limited in width by the shaft drive housing. I suggest you get good rubber on it before riding any more. I've had a blowout from a really good looking tire that was just old.

Speaking of the shaft drive... there is a grease zert on the housing. Forget it's there, because it does no good to pump grease in there. Before you get going too far on that bike, I'd suggest removing the rear wheel, getting some new grease into those bearings.. especially on the left side of the wheel, then remove where the shock mounts to the final drive, then the 4 nuts holding the final drive onto the shaft drive housing. The final drive then comes off as one unit and you'll see the end of the driveshaft there in the housing. Liberally apply grease down on the gear in the final drive that the drive shaft rides against. Slap it back together, and apply grease to the area that engages the wheel. It sure wouldn't hurt to make an anual pilgrimage into there to do that.

There is an inherant 1st/2nd gear problem on these bikes. The gears don't engage very far together, and over time, this can cause the edges of the gears to round off. Under pressure, these rounded edges pushing against each other will push the gears apart, jump to the next tooth.. engage a split second, then jump again in quick succession. Kind of resembles sitting on a .50 cal machine gun when it happens. Every time it jumps like that, it rounds the gears worse, and eventually won't hold any pressure at all. Though this may sound bad, there is a cheap fix if you have a Dremmel tool. Also, not every bike develops this problem.

Do some research on your bike. You not only have something with incredible sentimental value, you own the original bad boy that started everything "Superbike" from the 1st year made. your '78 is not only the most prized, (Arguably) it was also slightly faster than the rest. It was the first bike that stock from the factory would do an 11 second 1/4 mile. It also has unheard of longevity for a bike of it's time. Most bikes from that era were wore out at 50k miles. Many members here have over 200k!

One thing to add. These bikes have a better throttle than they do brakes and handling. They are heavy, so they won't stop incredibly well on the skinny tires it's limited to without modification.

So take care of that thing a bit with oil changes and such and it will last ANOTHER 30+ years. Every now and then when you throw your leg over it.. remember your grandfather. Take care of it.. and maybe you can pass it on to YOUR grandkids.

Oh, and welcome to the site.

Tod

[BIG E]

trbig you are the man I appreciate it so much you helped more than you know. Thanks guy. I did change the break fluid and purged the lines it was thick brown and smelled like rotten fish. I'm hoping after I run it a little more I don't start gettin leaks every where. Its been in a garage wrapped in a tab and bike cover for 27 years

[skids]

I don't know how the gas tank was stored, but there could be some rust on the bottom of the inside. There are ways to line the tank with epoxy, but for now you should consider installing some inline fuel filters and possibly new lines. Fram makes some nice, generic metal ones. You just don't need the frustration of rust particles or old rubber fragments in the passages of the carbs.

[DGXSER]

A few more things to think about.

The brakes are pretty undersized, adding stainles steel line helps alot, so if you can, do that.

Member Catatonic Bug has a link to his website where he has the manuals to the bike. Either download it form him or buy one, they are a requirement really. And then, look through the maintenance section of the manual and do ALL of the stuff it says to do.

If you have not ridden before, take the MSF course. It REALLY is helpful!!

Now go ride and enjoy!!!

[BIG E]

I've owned many bikes I road race a zx6 for a while... Thank you for all the tips and tricks guys. I have coated the tank with the kreem system. And I highly recommend it.