Fork Seals - Here we go again

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  • Briggs&Stratton
    replied





    This is the factory 79 special seal:

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  • Briggs&Stratton
    replied
    Originally posted by Axel
    Allballs seal still working . I replaced the other aftermarket seal with an OEM Honda fork seal . There are quite a few Hondas with the same seal . A little more expensive ($30 each) and it comes with a dust cap specific to whatever model you order it for ( I used CR80r 1996-2002) so you dont use that of course . The Honda seal is a triple lip a lot like the Allballs but it installs beautifully . This time I got to use the bike shop's tools and bay and took my time and it all went well . My mech friend helped me with the details . I'm happy to say it is working well !!!
    Part number I used is 51490-GBF-831
    Has anyone else used this Honda seal? And in a special? I ordered a set and the height appears to be too short, compared to the factory seal. By short, I mean it would fit well under the retaining clip.

    I'll have to re-learn how to post pics.

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  • Arthur_of_Hex
    replied
    Here at the shop we have a collection of seal drivers...seperate, reconnect around the fork, drive in the goodies. The best part is smashing the meat of your hand between the tool and the fork...

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  • Axel
    replied
    Brake pads

    I bit the bullet and got Kevlar all around from Cali . The shipping cost more than the pads but I got 3 sets for the price of one here including the shipping cost .

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  • Axel
    replied
    hmm

    Well. I installed the second Honda fork seal and seem to have messed it up . Got me through the season but weeps . I need to have more patience and the right place to work . My friends bike shop was the perfect combo. The arbor press didnt hurt either.

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  • wingnut
    replied
    Have ya tried heating the lower tubes in the hottest water you can get out of the tap before you install the seals? Works for me every time.

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  • Axel
    replied
    rotate pads ?

    Might be a silly question but as one pad in each caliper is thicker than the other , can you switch them around to get more life fom them ?

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  • rdmcguy
    replied
    brake pad cleaning

    An old trick that works to varying degrees
    Take your propane torch with map gas and heat the metal side of the pads,
    You can often watch the oil weeping out,
    Another old trick is to put a bit of alcohol in the fork leg to "swell"the seal a bit.
    (I have used a syringe)
    Both of these are somewhat of a band aid but work in a pinch.

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  • motoman
    replied
    Originally posted by skids
    I wonder if you could "de-brake fluid" them with a short soak and brushing in acetone? I assume you already hit them with the Brake Kleen spray.
    Hi Skids,
    Alot of folks, based on location cannot get the 'real' BraKleen like we still can.
    Most have to settle for the 'Green can'........which is bout worthless, but better than none at all.

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  • motoman
    replied
    Wasn't a perfect result, but used to take brake shoes that were seriously contaminated with oil from leaky seals on large trucks, equip, etc. and get them hot steam cleaning, then tossing them in 'floor dry' material(cheap cat litter likely the same), which would draw majority of contaminents out. It was a 'hit and miss' thing, but sometimes worth a try if they weren't extremely imbedded with oil and such.

    Had the same thing on front of the Bentley with it sitting in garage, front facing opened door catching afternoon sun and heat on left fork. Having a few lbs. of air in them combined with the heat pushed a weep of fork oil out and down the fork leg onto the caliper assembly to the pads on left side.
    Let the 9lbs. air out of each fork, pulled up the dust seal, cleaned everything spraying BraKleen and ran the Motion-Pro Seal Mate down past and around seal, to remove any possible trapped foreign matter between seal and 'piston'. Rocking bike for and aft on centerstand, working the forks with front brake on afterwards for any re-seating of seal lips, and then riding 100mi. on highways with dips enough to utilize suspension travel for a test. So far, nice and dry, so least successful so far.
    30+ yrs. ago, that was an old trick on our moto-x bikes using a piece of 35mm film......way, way before MotionPro picked the idea up commercially, and actually designed a 'hook' look to the end of it trapping anything as it is rotated around and pulled out.
    For any interested, most any of the bike shops/dealers carries them.
    Use it over and over again for under $5 IIRC.

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  • skids
    replied
    I wonder if you could "de-brake fluid" them with a short soak and brushing in acetone? I assume you already hit them with the Brake Kleen spray.

    Leave a comment:


  • Axel
    replied
    and then ...

    Last year I got by with more clean-up on the All-Balls seal side . The Honda seal was perfect . This year I had to install the second Honda seal as the All-Balls gave out completely after a few runs .
    All went well ( I think) but my brake pads are pretty useless from fork oil .
    I guess that's next .

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  • Axel
    replied
    Iirc

    I bought a set of aftermarket seals that had all the different applications on the back of the package . I noticed that some Hondas were on the list . I heard Honda makes a good seal so I ordered one for the listed bike . It came with a dust seal which I couldnt use but the seal has worked well . I have noticed the ALLBalls seal weeps slightly .
    After all this - I think it is down to procedure and maybe not a particular seal .

    Procedure - remove fork from bike . Smooth any pits on upper tube . Remove upper tube from lower tube and remove old seal . Replace upper tube . Add black tape (or plastic seal wrapper) to top of upper tube . Oil upper tube .Carefully work seal over top of tube and into place.
    I used a piece of black water pipe ( 2"dia x 2' long IIRC) to set it into place but it wasnt too hard to do . Sew it up .

    Did I miss anything ?

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  • jwhughes3
    replied
    Yes!

    That is a tried and true method. Don knows what he's talking about.

    Depending on the clearances involved many "press fit" items will just "drop in".

    You can re-create the freezer on parts too big (like an axle spindle) with cans of refrigerant, of course NOW we know that is bad for the ozone and R12 costs too much so CO2 is next best.

    John

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  • jeffro1954
    replied
    Anyone else try to freeze method with success? I've got to replace mine and hadn't heard of that. I've replaced seals on Honda's before, thinking can't be much different than a 78E.

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