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  • More Advice Please...

    I have just finished changing my tires. The back was easy to set the line on the rubber with the rim, the front is not so easy. Is there some easy way to do this? If I drive it half inflated will it set itself in place? Should I fill it to 40psi and hit with a rubber hammer? I filled it up and aired it out 6 times already. Thanks...

    Last edited by Ken Talbot; 04-10-2010, 11:03 PM.
    Some make 'em, most just make payments on 'em!
    1978 XS 1100E
    Vance & Hines Slip on Straight Shot Exhaust
    K & N Air filter
    Home built forward controls
    Vulcan Mustang seat
    A little chopped

    http://s812.photobucket.com/albums/zz42/Brad_099/

  • #2
    Hey Brad,

    I think I stated it in the tech tip I told you about in the other thread..

    but I filled mine a bit less, and then bounced the tire on the ground instead of using a hammer, and that was able to push the bead around and help it seat properly. Might try putting some water on the rim/tire to help it slip/slide better!
    T.C.
    T. C. Gresham
    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
    History shows again and again,
    How nature points out the folly of men!

    Comment


    • #3
      It helps to put dish soap or tire lube around the bead before you add air.
      With the soap or lube the tire will seal right up usually. At least that is my
      experience. So if you let the air back out and push the sidewall so you can get some liquid into the bead area it should work.
      80 SG XS1100
      14 Victory Cross Country

      Comment


      • #4
        i''ve seen lighter fluid and a match to seat beads, but i wouldn't reccommend it. I agree with soapy water. I have only used larger quantaties of air, but I also know most people don't have the air supply to do it as the little 5gallon 3/4hp compressors just don't have the woof 90% of the time.
        K. Johnson
        -1978 XS750SF - brought back from the dead with carb
        triple clean and boots
        -1982 XJ1100J - brought back from the dead by
        replacing motor after throwing #4 rod
        -1985 XJ750XN - shim job, oil change, ride. not bad for
        $500 including new rear tire.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by kjohnson View Post
          i''ve seen lighter fluid and a match to seat beads, but i wouldn't reccommend it. I agree with soapy water. I have only used larger quantaties of air, but I also know most people don't have the air supply to do it as the little 5gallon 3/4hp compressors just don't have the woof 90% of the time.
          Hand cleaner without the grit works well too. If you can, use more pressure! Keep the hose on'er for another min after you think it stops takin air, wait for the pop. GL
          '79 XS11 F
          Stock except K&N

          '79 XS11 SF
          Stock, no title.

          '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
          GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

          "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

          Comment


          • #6
            One thing that I didn't mention is that I have tire tubes. I don't need to make the seal but what I do need is to seat the line on the tire with the rim correctly. I have a small part of the line on the rubber that sits in the rim and when I spin the tire, you can see it's not correct.
            Some make 'em, most just make payments on 'em!
            1978 XS 1100E
            Vance & Hines Slip on Straight Shot Exhaust
            K & N Air filter
            Home built forward controls
            Vulcan Mustang seat
            A little chopped

            http://s812.photobucket.com/albums/zz42/Brad_099/

            Comment


            • #7
              hey Brad,
              wont matter if it has tubes, u still need to seat the bead,
              as the others have stated, a bit of soapy water and bouncing the tyre
              can help, the tyre will usually make a popping
              sound when its seated correctly.
              dont be afraid to pump the air intyo it,
              ive fitted tyres with pressures over 80psi,
              just be sure to adjust to the correct pressure afterwards.


              also never drive on a tyre that hasnt been seated properly its way to dangerous.
              Last edited by petejw; 04-11-2010, 04:24 AM.
              pete


              new owner of
              08 gen2 hayabusa


              former owner
              1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
              zrx carbs
              18mm float height
              145 main jets
              38 pilots
              slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
              fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

              [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

              Comment


              • #8
                I agree, never run it without the bead fully set. More air will always make them set. If your maxing out a small compressor you can usually hook up a ~$10 bike pump and get some more air in manually. It shouldnt take much more. This should finish the job.
                '79 XS11 F
                Stock except K&N

                '79 XS11 SF
                Stock, no title.

                '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
                GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

                "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

                Comment


                • #9
                  Carefully Examine the Inner Rim

                  JAT....Are you using rim locks or not??

                  They have to be guided into position sometimes as the tire/tube is partially inflated.

                  Once they are in position then inflate as normal.

                  Also, the inside "bead" of the rim should be free of any gouges or imperfections made from the use of unpadded tire irons. Prying without any protection between the rim and tire iron is a no-no. Any rough spots/gouges would keep the bead from seeking its fully seated position.

                  HTH

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks again all, the soap trick did it. They are both set perfect now. Took it up to 180Kmph, no shimmy either.
                    Some make 'em, most just make payments on 'em!
                    1978 XS 1100E
                    Vance & Hines Slip on Straight Shot Exhaust
                    K & N Air filter
                    Home built forward controls
                    Vulcan Mustang seat
                    A little chopped

                    http://s812.photobucket.com/albums/zz42/Brad_099/

                    Comment

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