Is it fair to say?

[Rickrod3]

That syncing the carbs have more of an effect on the low end before the diaphrams open up the main Jets?

I have read it seems to be a common behavior prior to syncing the bike will be rough till about 3500 rpm then take off like a rocket.

I sopose this is due to syncing matters less the more the butterflies are open.

Rick

[cywelchjr]

I would think this would be true. The more the butterfly's open, the less that difference becomes as a percentage of the total. I would still want to have them as close as I can get them anyways.

[WMarshy]

That is my understanding of it. Off idle to ~3000-3500 RPM will be effected. This thread has some good discussion about making your own and some tech stuff. I think Im going to buy some synch gauges listed in there also. http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27480

[Rickrod3]

I would think this would be true. The more the butterfly's open, the less that difference becomes as a percentage of the total. I would still want to have them as close as I can get them anyways.

Absolutely I'm syncing mine tomorrow. Riding with a rough low end or slow circuit makes starts and low speed riding a little hairy with the weight and power of these bikes when they buck it can get ugly quick.

Rick

[cywelchjr]

Absolutely I'm syncing mine tomorrow. Riding with a rough low end or slow circuit makes starts and low speed riding a little hairy with the weight and power of these bikes when they buck it can get ugly quick.

Rick

It can get ugly quick when they work right with the power and weight too!

Just got told I was posting too fast! Said to wait 6 more seconds.

[Rickrod3]

That is my understanding of it. Off idle to ~3000-3500 RPM will be effected. This thread has some good discussion about making your own and some tech stuff. I think Im going to buy some synch gauges listed in there also. http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27480

I have bought a set as well.
I found it not worth it to make them. The 4 tube type ones are cheap to make but clumberson to store. I think you need to see all cylinders at the same time so if you bought 4 gauges you may as well get the motion pro one for around nintey dollars

Rick

[tinman905]

I have bought a set as well.
I found it not worth it to make them. The 4 tube type ones are cheap to make but clumberson to store. I think you need to see all cylinders at the same time so if you bought 4 gauges you may as well get the motion pro one for around nintey dollars

Rick

I agree with you about not worth it . I like to take mine on the bike when I go to work on friends bike . The time and effort that is put into making one is better off spent on something that is going to actually work properly.

I liked the Morgan carbtune much better . There is nothing that will break easily or leak. I know a few people that had the motion pro every one was eventually broken. The Morgan is about the same price.

[Rickrod3]

too late

I agree with you about not worth it . I like to take mine on the bike when I go to work on friends bike . The time and effort that is put into making one is better off spent on something that is going to actually work properly.

I liked the Morgan carbtune much better . There is nothing that will break easily or leak. I know a few people that had the motion pro every one was eventually broken. The Morgan is about the same price.

thanks for the info Tinman already bought the the motion pro. Will keep it in mind next time in need to buy a set.

Rick

[dbeardslee]

When you sync, it's done at idle. You're not so much setting how far open the butterflies are, but how much air they're drawing. Once that's set it becomes a question of what they're drawing - i.e. the mixture. You're jetting (both mains and pilots), float height, and mixture adjustment are all going to have a bearing on low rpm performance. To get the carbs right you really have to make sure that, #1 you've got the right size mains, #2 the slide needles are set to the 'best' position, #3 the floats are set to the correct level, and #4 that the mixture screws are properly adjusted - and in that order. The sync is a good place to start (and revisit regularly), but unless the carbs are properly setup, don't expect it to solve all problems. Here's the best page I've seen for CV Carb Tuning. I've found it very helpful, and you may too. I also find a colortune plug very helpful when determining if jetting is correct.

The thing you have to watch with the liquid filled manometers is, if the motor backfires while it's connected, they can puke gas down the line, fouling the fluid. The good news is, on the new models they no longer use mercury, and the fluid is replaceable.