Fuel Lines

[thebottle]

I bought:
http://www.bikebandit.com/emgo-universal-fuel-oil-line

It was cheap so I bought it. The **** broke on me twice. Do not buy. First time it was stored in a garage over winter and when I pulled it out it was cracked. I replaced the line and then put maybe 700 miles on it and it broke again. I pulled into the garage where I work. It was near empty. When we got back we smelled gasoline all over the house and porch but couldn't find where it originated. Drove my bike two blocks to the gas station before heading home and as I was filling up gas started pouring on the ground. Son of a bitch... the line cracked again while sitting in the garage.

I am not sure exactly what causes it but because it happened after the engine was off and cooling down each time I figure it is because of rapid heat loss. It hasn't been that cold here. It may have been at the lowest 45F in that garage. These lines can't handle the hot then cold conditions that we have here.

I just bought:
http://www.bikebandit.com/motion-pro...inyl-fuel-line

I will let you know if I have any problems with it.

And if anyone is wondering... No, I didn't have any strong kinks in it. I had all the lines perfect.

I put a review on bikebandit.com about my experience but it hasn't been approved at the moment. I just want to deter anyone thinking about buying that line because of my poor experience. It really makes me wonder if vacuum line isn't being sold as fuel line.


And since I want to just get this done all in one post.

Most resent news on my bike is that the clutch is slipping. It only happens when I am giving it 3/4+ throttle and it hits 6k RPMs (usually in third gear). It will then jump to 8k RPMs without any power to the rear wheel. I have been running Valvoline 20w50 auto oil in it. And admittedly it is filled over the max mark at the moment. I am going to drop the oil on Friday and put in motorcycle oil in it with a little bit of Seafoam and run it for a couple hundred miles and see if that fixes it. If not then I am going to tear into the clutch and see if the friction plates/compress springs need to be replaced.

In other news my bike is leaking oil from the cam chain adjuster. From what I found on the forum this is a common problem. I tried fixing it with RVT but it didn't work. I should have fixed it when I had the engine out before I painted it. One thing that worries me though is that right above the cam chain adjuster where it curves up is a small whole that looks like someone tried to JB weld. I don't know if there was a problem with the chain in the past and it wore through or what happened. I think I have everything sealed with RVT but that one spot is what keeps leaking. I haven't properly diagnosed it yet.

I am starting to think I need to get another XS as a backup... and also as one to keep for the long rides and one to keep for the cruising.

Have fun riding.

Tony

[slow mo]

fuel line

hi bottle! its fuel line you might as well buy the best as you need less than 8 feet! i was messing around with line but it kinked and broke so pay 250 a foot to get tygon or something similar its worth it ,,just my 2 cents ,,ride safe ,,slow mo

[DGXSER]

Not sure how many years it wil hold up for, on year two and still going fine, but I found Briggs and Stratton yellow lawn mower fuel line to be the cheapest yet very good and effective for me. I do not even use any type of clamp on it and it holds tight and does not leak.

But the tygon stuff Mo suggested is supposed to be the best.

STOP...DO NOT run your bike under load with the seafoam in the oil. It will thin out the oil and can kill the bearings. If you put seafoam in the oil just start the bike and let it idle with no load for about twenty minutes or so, then drain the oil and put in new. BTW, IMO, the MC oil versus the valvoline is not the issue. I run regular auto oil in both of my bikes and have no clutch issues. I'd check your clutch springs for being in spec first.

As to the oil leak, get the bike to a car wash and clean it up, then put some baby powder or similar over the front of the engine and run it, you should easily see where the oil is originating from.

[WMarshy]

better do your homework and read up first

I agree with DGXSER, your springs, friction plates, or both are toast. If you keep riding it with the clutch slip that bad your going to ruin the steel plates in your clutch and you will be replacing them as well. There is a tech tip about removing/re-installing your clutch (and several other tips in the discussion area for various fixes) that guides you through the exact how-to. I suggest you read up on clutch problems/fixes b/c you'll probably be needing to replace something if its slipping that bad, I doubt seafoam will be enough to save ya. GL

[DGXSER]

Checking and even removing the clutch is very easy, do it on the sidestand (after you correct the overfilled oil issue), and you do not even need to drain the oil to remove the clutch. I've done this several times myself. Put the bike on the sidestand, remove the clutch cover. I do not even remove the cable just move the full cover and hang it somewhere so it is not hanging by the cable. to check the springs, just remove the six bolts holding the star plate on. The trick to the star plate is even pressure, so loosen and tighten those bolts one or two turns at a time in rotation to keep the plate and the pressure on it even all around. Then just remove the springs and measure. If they are in spec, which chances are they will not be unless someone has already replaced them, then pull the clutch basket.

To remove the basket on the sidestand I put the bike in 4th or 5th gear and use a 1/2" drive ratchet and socket on the center bolt of the clutch and then kneel on the rear brake lever to lock the brake on, I also block the wheels to be sure I do not roll the bike off the sidestand accidentally. You can also put wood in the rear wheel as TC shows in the dremel 2nd gear tech tip, but I have never needed to do that. If you have air tools it is really easy, just hit it wiht the impact driver and it comes right off.

With the basket out, pay attention to the fit and how everything goes together, take pictures of it all to remind yourself later if you get old-timers like I do and can't recall what you looked at two hours ago. Then pull out the inner basket and then pull the disk out one by one checking for thickness. Then check the steels for warpage, I put them against a window in my garage door and use a feeler gage. I have yet to find a warped steel or disc out or even close to out of spec. Springs tend to be the issue on these bikes.

[motoman]

Seriously, get some good fuel line on that bike! Don't wanna read bout a fire and something catostropic happening here! Do NOT ride it till it's fixed! As far as sea foam in the oil......would NEVER add anything like that to my oil that will break it down, idle or otherwise! Good way to "wash-out" bearing surfaces. Don't matter what container says, unless you thinks there are "mechanics in a can". You do what whatever you want, but your playing with disaster! The Vavoline is NOT your issue, weak pressure plate springs are! Put new ones in before you wind up replacing more clutch parts. Some choices never cease to amaze me.......O'well.

[WMarshy]

If your going in that far its worth replace the springs and friction plates. Who cares if they are in spec or not, they might be 30 yrs old! For ~$50 you can get new frictions and springs and not have to ever worry about it for a while.

[thebottle]

I ordered a clutch kit today. I called around and all the parts places wanted $95+ for it and none of them had it stocked anyway so I ordered it online.