Carb wet set fuel level question

[XS1100 Newbie]

Test ride

Just came back from a 15 mile test ride. Went up hills, on the flats, and it felt pretty good. It now flattens out at 6500 RPM in 4th uphill, and a little on the flat. I can take it up to 7500 on the flat in lower gears. I put the choke in the middle position, and tried it in 3rd gear on the flat, and it runs right up to the redline. It would appear that i need to set my float level a little higher.. I hate to think about pulling those carbs again.

[psycoreefer]

Do your self a favor, I've gone this on both my bikes and carb R&R is much easier.

Take the top mounting bracket off the airbox after you take the carbs out.
Be careful because there are some spacers and stuff but if your paying attention you shouldn't have any trouble. You still have the two side screws so no worry about lack of support for the carbs and air box.

Next time you want to remove the carbs take the two side screws out of the air box, loosen your clamps and then slide the air box back and down. Then pull the carbs back and out to the side, easy.

[XS1100 Newbie]

That is what i did this time. I am just complaining because it isn't as easy as a 1960 chev. It really wasn't that bad. I don't have blood loss from it, so haw bad could it have been. The next R&R will go easier.

[DGXSER]

I have yet to dismantle my air box and I can remove the carbs form either of my 81 models in ten minutes or less. My personal method is as follows.

Loosen all eight clamp screws on the air box and intake sides of the carbs, really loose, like the screw will almost come out, remove the seat and the tank, remove the two screws on the side of the air box, remove the top screw on the air box bracket that site under the tank and then pull the air box back so the bracket is completely behind that top screw hole and put the screw back in it. Remove the clutch cable from its bracket on no 4 carb, remove the vacuum line form no 2 carb body, and remove the throttle cable and pull it all the way out of the clamps ans such and tuck it up on the valve cover. Now grab the carbs and wiggle and pull back so they come out of the intake boots. Use a screwdriver and pry/push the air box boots down and turn the carbs up so the intake side of the carbs is above the air box boots. Then slide the carbs out the left side.

Like I said, takes me about ten minutes ot go from carbs in place ready to fire up bike to carbs in my hands going to the bench. When you put the carbs back in, spray hte inle tboots and the carb flanges with WD40 or PB Blaster. Helps them slide in much easier.

As to float setting, I have the drains that are setup to measure to the carb body for fuel height and yet, I have never used that method. I set them to the stock 23 mm and never look back and both of my bikes fire right up and I am not aware of any flat spots or lack of power.

[psycoreefer]

DG, thats how I'd been doing mine as well, but if you take that top bracket off, you no longer have to remove the tank or seat, except of course to make idle and balance adjustments easier. You also no longer need to pry on the boots on the air box side, they just drop down out of the way nice and neat. Anyways I like it.

[motoman]

Exactley what psycoreefer says. Leave the top bracket attached and dremmel cut or similar remove the top bracket at the base where it bends and attaches to top of cleaner box. That way there isn't an unfiltered opening. Can remove carb bank in less than ten minutes including the seat, tank and fairing lowers. Fuel lines and filters are cris-crossed and long enough to turn tank around, set on frame, turn to prime for re-syncing, etc. which should be done every time carb bank is R&R'ed. Just removing will change and replacing carb bank WILL throw off sync!

[psycoreefer]

Exactley what psycoreefer says. Leave the top bracket attached and dremmel cut or similar remove the top bracket at the base where it bends and attaches to top of cleaner box. That way there isn't an unfiltered opening. Can remove carb bank in less than ten minutes including the seat, tank and fairing lowers. Fuel lines and filters are cris-crossed and long enough to turn tank around, set on frame, turn to prime for re-syncing, etc. which should be done every time carb bank is R&R'ed. Just removing will change and replacing carb bank WILL throw off sync!

removing the bracket won't leave unfiltered holes, you've got to put the screws back in the holes because the wing nuts you use to hold the air box together are attached to the "other" end of them. Cutting the bracket would work just as well, but you wouldn't be able to put it back later if you wanted to return the bike to "stock" I really try to make mods to my bike in such a way that if some FO (future Owner) wanted to do a concourse restoration they wouldn't need to source a bunch of parts, just go through the box of stuff I've removed and put it back.

[bikerphil]

My method in lose the top bracket, put the screws back in. Whack the snorkel 1" from it's base. Now the lower and upper air box can be removed first, out the right side, then the carbs. Now if anything fell in the open snorkel by accident, it would fall right out the bottom of the drilled airbox. You'll never know how easy it is from now on untill you've tried this.

[mro]

Whack the snorkel 1" from it's base

When it rains, remember to avoid deep puddles if you do this
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I’ve thought about doing this a couple times while removing the air box to get out the carbs. But each time I remind myself that once tuned properly my carbs seldom have to come off. Just not that big a deal.

mro

[bikerphil]

Man, that thing is well covered by the seat. Can't be any worse than running pods! Seriously tho, I've never had ANY ill effects running both my bikes that way. I found that the snorkel (or part of) must be left in place, or you'll be sucking dirty air on the wrong side of the filter.