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  • #1

    Accel coils

    Do the laminated cores on the coils need a solid ground?
    A search turned up a couple of nice installation jobs for these coils using small brackets, washers etc.. Is there any reason I couldn't just ziptie these things in there through the original mounting holes?? There isn't a whole lot of room to work with and I just don't feel the payoff for a morning fffff-ing around with clips etc, is worth it..
    If the concensus is "do it once, do it right..bolt 'em in " then I will get the Fiddley Tool out...

    Regards,

    Gareth
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Originally posted by gareth View Post
    Do the laminated cores on the coils need a solid ground?
    A search turned up a couple of nice installation jobs for these coils using small brackets, washers etc.. Is there any reason I couldn't just ziptie these things in there through the original mounting holes?? There isn't a whole lot of room to work with and I just don't feel the payoff for a morning fffff-ing around with clips etc, is worth it..
    If the concensus is "do it once, do it right..bolt 'em in " then I will get the Fiddley Tool out...

    Regards,

    Gareth
    I sure hope not! Mine have been running with the core ungrounded for about 15 years now. Of course, I ALSO left the ballast resistor in when it should have been removed for the coils I was using (3 ohm). Yes, I DID finally remove that resistor...

    My coils came with a metal bracket that clamped to the body of the coil. It was basically a chromed metal strap with the clamps welded to it. I used small hose clamps to clamp the bracket to the frame right behind the center stem. They tuck under the gas tank, so they are not really visible when the bike is put together. Like you, I have seen some of the nice installations and have thought about "doing it right", but every time I have the bike apart and I look at how little space I have between the frame tubes, I decide that it is just fine the way it is!
    -- Clint
    1979 XS1100F - bought for $500 in 1989

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    • #3
      It get's pretty warm under that gas tank, so depending on how zip ties hold up to the heat they may or may not work. I've seen plastic fuel filters get deformed by the heat, and if zip ties respond the same way to the heat, the plastic might stretch a bit resulting in a loose mounting. If it was me, I'd turn the radio on, pop a cold one, and do it right.
      I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

      '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

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      • #4
        Gareth, do you have a part number a pic of the coils you're using. I would like to upgrade mine and am open to all options.
        Rev.Rick

        What I ride now: 1980 XS1100 Special

        What I used to Ride: 1980 XS850, 1984 Honda V65 Sabre, 1974 Honda CB750 ss, Yamaha YZ 480 (bored YZ400), Kawasaki 500 triple

        Amazing Grace, how sweet the sound that saved a wretch like me! John Newton (1725-1807)

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        • #5
          Rev. Check out this thread. Not the Accel coils but good ones

          http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ht=green+coils
          1979 XS1100SF.

          "You know what makes me sad... YOU DO, Why dont we run over to mamby pamby land and get you some self confidence you jack wagon" Will go down as one of the great quotes LOL

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          • #6
            http://picasaweb.google.com/agfitz/X...eat=directlink

            Just finished off installing the Accels this morning. There was a whole lot of head-scratching involved and this is how it eventually panned out. Sometimes just rummaging around in the hardware bin gives me an idea or two. This was a drawer pull left over from a cabinet job we did last year. It's a bit unusual in that the "bar" is loose and only tightens up when the pull is installed on the drawer.. I cut down the posts and retapped them and shortened the bar a bit. I slotted one end of the coils to fit over the front mounting bolt. The coils slide forward onto the original front mounting bolt and the bar pushes through both coils and the rear mount. I pushed 3/16" vacuum caps over the ends of the bar to hold things together. Small gaps were taken up with a few washers. Looks good and strong.
            Going to wire it up later..

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            • #7
              I like it! Nicely done.
              I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

              '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

              Comment

              • #8
                Very ingenious there Garth.......how many pop-tops all said and done?
                81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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                • #9
                  Very ingenious there Garth.......how many pop-tops all said and done?
                  Not sure what a "pop-top" is...as least not in a motorcycle context..
                  If its something to do with getting a bit frustrated and exasperated while trying to figure something out with grazed knuckles? Is it the same as a "flip-lid"..? Oh, wait....BEER...Just dawned on me...Doh!
                  None yet...
                  When its fully wired up then sho will I shortly be shoon after..

                  G.

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