rear wheel locked

[jecklc80]

Anyone?

Anybody know what to look for? should everything be this stiff in the driveline?

[3Phase]

Anybody know what to look for? should everything be this stiff in the driveline?

Well, you said the rear wheel was locked, not 'stiff'.

The bike's in neutral with the u-joint disconnected and it's not locked, just 'stiff'? The mid-drive the flange may be a little 'stiff' when turning it by hand, it depends.

There isn't a whole that will lock or make the rear wheel 'stiff' without being fairly obvious fairly quickly except for the rear brake. Open the bleed nipple on the rear brake caliper to let off any pressure, then gently pry the brake pads apart a little bit and see if that helps.

If it does help then take a look at Brakes not releasing?
Check your Master Cylinder "Spooge Holes"
by Ken Talbot, 6/20/00

Take your time and have fun!


Regards,

Scott

[xs11lover]

??rear brake??

[Winterhawk]

This is going to sound really stupid but are you sure the back brake isn't just frozen up?

I'd have to second this

[jecklc80]

Its not the rear brake. We took it all apart from the transmission back and it's all stiff. At one point the wheel was completely unmovable but now you can spin it but it takes a lot to move it. All of the splines in the rear and middle drives are very hard to turn.

[3Phase]

Its not the rear brake. We took it all apart from the transmission back and it's all stiff. At one point the wheel was completely unmovable but now you can spin it but it takes a lot to move it. All of the splines in the rear and middle drives are very hard to turn.

Okay, that pretty much leaves wheel bearings, a toasted final and/or mid-drive.

Tod already asked if you checked the oil. I have no idea what type of experience you have so I have to ask if you know how to check the oil in the final and mid-drives. If the bike was run low or without lube they'd be stiff because they tried to weld themselves together.

Can you remove the rear wheel and check the wheel bearings?

If you can get the rear wheel off, take off the four nuts that hold the final drive on the swingarm and pull it off, then see if the drive input coupler is hard to turn. Check the splines inside the coupler to see if they're worn or the coupler is out of round. Don't turn the final drive upside down or oil, if there is any oil in there, will pour out of the plastic vent on the top. DAMHIKIJKOK

Look inside the open end of the swingarm at the drive shaft and check the splines. They may be wiped out or the entire end could be out of round and oval-shaped.

That's all I can think of at the moment so take care, relax and don't stress out working on the bike!


Regards,

Scott

[DiverRay]

Do you have the wheel and swingarm off the bike? If it's still on the bike, is the rear brake caliper off the bike? If NOT, then it CAN be the rear brake! You MUST remove the caliper to take it out of the equation. IF you don't, it MAY still be he problem.
IF you have the rear brakes out, and it's still very hard to turn, it's probably the final drive. You can find new/used ones fairly cheap. Ask around here, or look on ebay for an XS11, or if you want to gear it up a little, a 750/850 final drive. Send out a shout on this thread if you need one. I know I have a known good spare, and I'm sure others do as well.
Just to be sure, you realize it is MUCH easier to turn the wheel by hand than to try and turn the wheel by the splines.

[jecklc80]

yeah the rear brake is off the rear wheel is off the middle drive is off.

[DiverRay]

So post your location, and someone close should be able to send out a final drive at a reasonable price. If no one offers, check with andreas. He is in Washington State, and is a great guy. Very good prices, and he has been a good asset too this community.
I'm in California, and can send out a unit this week if it helps. $35 will cover shipping and the cost of a known good final drive unit. Let me know via pm, and I hope you can get the bike running soon!!

[Rasputin]

Drive shaft and Final drive

Middle Drive


As you can see there are quite a few bearings, gears, seals etc in both the middle drive and the drive shaft/final drive. The stiffness could depend on ones perception of stiff. It certainly is not going to freely spin by hand, but one should not need a wrench to turn it either. Is there any way you can narrow the problem down to one particular area that is stiff or locked? Using the numbers from the diagrams above, can you tell us which parts or pieces seem to be the worst?