Front caliper rebuild...

[TomRodgers]

For someone who has never done this.....estimated time to do both? purchased rebuild kits....

the bleeding brake issues i had a couple of months ago, i feel will be corrected by the rebuild. they look like crap. just wanted to know approximate time and any tips you guys could throw my way....

ive read a lot of the posts about the piston being a bear to get out. but besides that, any tricks? BTW, its for a Standard, not a special...

[rpgoerlich]

Start by removing only one caliper. I usually break loose the brake line and snug it back up. Pull the screw out of the back of the caliper. Pull the bolt just below the caliper. Remove the caliper from it's mount leaving the brake pads. Remove the circlip and remove the rubber dust boot. Use the master cylinder to pump out the caliper piston slowly, Holding the piston vertical and having a container to catch the brake fluid once it comes out. Remove the brake line and pull it up as high as you can get it(If you remove the screw holding the hose mount to the fender you can almost get it up where no brake fluid will escape. Put the caliper on the bench, pull the seal and clean out the groove and the rest of it. Re-assemble and bleed it before you start on the next one.

Keep the brake fluid away from any painted surfaces. I'd guess no more than a couple hours.

[ManitoulinLad]

Hey Tom: I know how you feel - I was a little ansy too - I just did mine a little while ago - Not a standard but I imagine mostly the same. I got the piston out with the grease gun method - grease is cheap & I got no compressor & was worred about the idea of something bigger than ten gauge slug flying around my shed. The greae worked fine & cleaned up great with brake cleaner - I just took out the & cleaning & replaced all the o rings etc. Good you got the kits though. I am pretty slow - make sure you use the moly grease for slides on the brakes so they don't drag. It took me 2 evenings after supper & one other very short evening time to bleed them out. I also put 'no weld" on the brake caliper bolts that hold the unit to the forks. I plan on taking them off every fall & re-greasing the slides with moly so they won't drag. I guess a total amt of 3 - 4 hrs for a guy by himself & pretty slow with a print off from the site & manual hehehe. Good luck & I'm sure it will go well & as aways thx for the avatar - Dan

[TomRodgers]

Thanks!! I plan on replacing all the fluid anyway..just have a new M/C and stainless lines. Calipers were the last link. Figured better do it. New components on top end and no 'flex' from stock lines would probably 'hose' the already questionable internals of the caliper at the LEAST opportune moment.....

SWMBO has a whopper of a list for me to do this weekend..but the way i figure it...i should be able to get at least one side done each day....and get the beast rolling by mid week when the rain goes away!!!!

[crazy steve]

I'll just add that just use the grease gun method if the pistons don't pop out easily. Yeah, it's messy, but very safe. And if the pistons are rusty/pitted on the outer bore surface, you should probably replace them.

I have a compressor, and mine wouldn't budge even at 150 psi.

'78E original owner

[bikerphil]

I've pried those Standard caliper pistons out before using a couple screwdrivers and small blocks of scrap metal for adjustable fulcrum points. Soaked the piston overnite with PB Blaster, then the next day it took about 5-10 minutes to pry it out.

[tinman905]

If the calipers aren't leaking you really only need to pull the rubber seal out once you have the piston out. I like to use the compressor I use a small piece of plywood between the piston and side of the caliber and put the air to her via the bleed screw and wait for the "POP" I love the "speed bleeders" from mikesxs they will save you a lot of time bleeding once you try them you will never want to be without them. New crush washers are a good idea too. Caliber paint and you're good to go.