Cam tensioner

[Rev.Rick]

I have read multiple threads dealing with the same issue I have. The problem is mine is leaking from the end of the housing. I have read how people have used JB weld and high temp RTV to fix the problem. I am going to replace the tensioner with one that doesn't leak, but until I get one I want to do a quick fix on mine. It's going to be beautiful riding weather here and I don't want to miss it. So hears the question: some have said yea and some have said nay. Can I remove the tensioner, clean it up and apply a quick fix to the leaking area without worry of the cam chain jumping time on the crank as long as I don't turn it while the tensioners removed?

[psycoreefer]

Yes, I've done it several times before I finally got mine sealed up.

1. Remove the timing cover and turn to "C" as if you were going to adjust the chain tension.
2. Remove the tensioner - make your repairs
3. Replace tensioner.
4. Turn motor over slowly by hand after re-install and re-tension is complete, its better to be safe then sorry.

[Rev.Rick]

Thanks phycoreefer, that's all I needed to know.

[psycoreefer]

I should also mention that this is best done on the center stand, I always did mine that way. If the chain is really really loose it could drop straight down and then come back up on the teeth of the crank when you re-install, if it were on the side stand it would be more likely to fall off to one side. It would only really be an issue if you chain is very stretched.

[Rev.Rick]

Yea I had read on some of the other post about that. I generally leave mine on the centersatend anyway when it's in the garage. Makes checking the oil easy and I'm kinda weird but I like warming it up that way as the oil is level in the pan and not all to one side.

[Ken Talbot]

If it is just leaking from the end of the housing, where the rubber stopper is, you can fix the leak without removing the whole assembly. Use a pick to pry out the stopper. Clean up it and the inside of the housing with a bit of acetone and some q-tips. Dab some RTV silicone on the plug and put it back in. I fixed one adjuster a few years back by gluing in a piece of rubber sink stopper that I had carved down to the right size. Others have even used cork.

[trbig]

Can I remove the tensioner, clean it up and apply a quick fix to the leaking area without worry of the cam chain jumping time on the crank as long as I don't turn it while the tensioners removed?

Well... MOST of the time. As stated, when you totally remove the adjuster, the slack in the chain goes to the bottom of the motor. There have been times that when you go to re-install the adjuster, it pushes back on the chain, but leaves a loop down at the bottom of the crank. When you go to crank it, it will jump teeth on the chain and bend valves.

I used to take off my adjuster every time, push the plunger in all the way and put back on.. letting it slap against the chain to make sure it adjusted out. Not any more.. I was there with Bohn Frazers bike doing the same thing I'd done probably a hundred times, and the valves got bent.

Your best bet is to do as Ken stated. You can buy a new cap at Yamaha for @ $5. It's a plastic/rubber coated metal plug you can pick out. Clean it, use some RTV or Yamabond around it and install it back after cleaning up the hole. Drips will be gone... unless it's actually leaking around the bolt and dripping down the front of it.. which happens a lot.


Tod

[Larrym]

Path of Least Persistence.

Rev.Rick,

I did a CCT leak "fix" while I was OTR. Thing is that I didn't want to R+R the CCT cause I just couldn't live with myself if I didn't R+R the valve cover as well to verify all was good before I hit the start button. My solution was to leave it in place and address the "seepage".



Copper Plumbing End Cap: Ace Hardware ( under $2.00)
120 Grit Sandpaper: Ace hardware ( under $3.00)
Acetone On Hand
JB Weld On Hand


Cleaned metal post with Acetone, Sanded post, applied JB Weld to Post and inside copper cap, slid it on, held in place for 24 hours with duct tape.

I drilled a small hole in the end of the copper cap to allow any trapped air to escape. When seated against the end of the CCT a little JB Weld oozed out and I sorta wiped it off.

That was about a year ago. Think I might call it good now and go through the trouble of painting it.

Black or silver?? Haven't made up my mind yet. It's those small issues like that which take forever for me to decide..

[Rev.Rick]

Thanks all for the feedback. I read someof them after the fact. I followed psycoreefer's adive and removed the tensioner. I did bring the crank aroung to the"c" mark first. I also pushed the cam tensioner all the way in the tightened it bfore putting it back on. I have to say it did slap the chain when i released it. I turned the engine over slowly by hand and evrything felt fine. i reajusted the tensioer once more then turn it over with the starter all seems fine. I just used some RTV until I get around to doing something more permanent. Thanks again all for the advice it was all greatly appreciated.