PlastiDip and Intake Boots

[draketrumpet]

Since I cannot pay 100 bucks for new ones, and the used ones on ebay that I find say they have corrosion inside (that doesn't sound good), I've got a can of PlastiDip spray waiting for me to pick up tomorrow at NAPA.

I'm trying to figure out the best way to prep my boots for this and have a few questions (please keep in mind, I'm very new to this stuff):

What do I need to do to prep my boots? Soap and water clean them fine?

Do I need to only spray the outside?

How many coats do I need to put on? (I think I saw one of ya did 10)

How long does it need to dry before going on the bike? (as opposed to when it is used for its normal purpose)

TIA. y'all are all wonderful
If I do find that some of my boots are cracked all the way through, how bad is it? Will PlatiDip really not help?

And, I'm about to go search for this one but thought I'd throw it out, any tips for getting the tank off? I had my seat off yesterday and was looking around and didn't really see how I was supposed to get that sucker off.

[draketrumpet]

Oh yeah...

Anything else you think a newbie MUST know before attempting this?

Alternately, if anyone is free sometime tomorrow, and a reasonable distance away, anyone want to help?

[mro]

I sealed a set (the cracks ) with rtv. After that set up I wrapped them with black electrical tape. Looked very good and could not tell there was tape on them without looking close. Good tape stretches and molds itself to shape around the carb holders. Wrapped one way, then back so the end sits under a clamp.

mro
BTW,
Good luck making the dip look nice
Post pics how it comes out.

[bikerphil]

any tips for getting the tank off?

With the seat off, at the rear of the tank is a 12MM bolt, remove it. Slip a block of wood under the mount to raise it up an inch or 2. At the right rear of the tank you'll see the double wire for the fuel sender unit, unplug it. With the tank elevated, stuff a shop rag under both petcocks and remove the fuel and vacuum lines. Pull the tank straight back, then up and off the bike. There is no off position for the Standard petcocks, so if the vacuum shutoffs aren't working properly, be ready to plug the fuel spigots.

[dpotter58]

Are you doing yours because they leak or because they look bad?

[draketrumpet]

dpotter,

They look bad and I'm worried that they may leak or soon start leaking. I'm not entirely sure what the symptoms of a leaky boot would be. Either way, I'd like to keep these boots working at least as well as they do as long as possible ($100 just does not sound fun).

phil,

I was also thinking of playing with my idle while I've got the tank pulled. I know that a PO put on the fuel lines so left petcock goes to right side and vice-versa. Can I just leave the fuel lines attached and turn the tank backwards and use the slack to rest it where the seat goes and still get the boots/carb assembly off?

Thanks guys.

mro,

were those cracks all the way through? I imagine you used the high temp RTV. Theoretically then, couldn't we just continue to use the same boots for years and years patching up with that stuff as needed?

[XSokieSPECIAL]

I don't know about a standard but those carbs are a PITA to remove and replace on a special.

I would suggest taking the tank off because you will need the operating area. There is going to be a lot of tugging, twisting, and cussin' going on and you don't want to have the tank slide off and break something else.

If those boots ar the least bit questionable I suggest spending the $ and replacing them.

After you wrestle with those carbs ONCE you'll understand why.

[draketrumpet]

hmmm....maybe I'll need to save this project for MOM...the bike works now, and as far as I can tell, it works decently.

[mro]

use the same boots for years and years patching up with that stuff as needed?

Yes and No
If the mounting area cracks, that would be hard to fix. May not be impossible but could be a hassle at best. The cracks between tho are different. There's a metal tube inside and can't imagine that cracking or getting a hole. Tape lasted two years and just replaced when I had the carbs off for cleaning.

Removing the fuel tank is not much trouble and takes about 3 minuets. Little longer putting back on and hooking up the hoses.

I made a small fuel supply with a two quart plastic container by installing a brass hose nipple ¾ of an inch from the bottom on the side. Short piece of fuel line, in-line fuel filter and then three feet of fuel hose to a brass splitter then two short fuel hoses to hook to the carbs. (local hardware store has the brass) Top of container I attached a piece of wire coat hanger, then a cord attached to that strung up on a rafter in the garage next to the bike being worked on. Using the cord to raise the fuel supply above the bike “turns it on”, lowering it to the floor “turns it off”. Works just fine XSpecially on the SF’s as they have the BS34 II carbs which are a little harder to reach the adjustments.

Was going to post a pic but my garage is a mess and I can’t locate it right now.

mro

[greatnw]

Save your money for new boots if that is your problem. I tried to revive my old cracked ones with many layers of Plasti Dip spray. I had leaks from a different area, but after buying new ones, I wished I hadn't wasted the time or money. If your boots are not soft and supple they will give you trouble at some point. I couldn't believe the difference. Mine were hard as a rock. If they are not leaking I would recommend not disturbing them.
Keep after it, these bikes are great machines and the guys on this forum are the best of the best!

[draketrumpet]

Ok, I've been convinced to put this off until MOM. My bike runs. I know for sure I can hit 70 and no reason to think I can't go a little faster. MOM is only 3 hours away. There will be plenty of experienced individuals there to advise me. Even if I can't do it there, then I can at least be shown how.

Thanks all.

[dbeardslee]

I did a set with plasti dip and it worked out very well. The first thing to do is to check the inside of the boots for cracks. Lots of times they're cracked on the outside, but OK on the inside. If they aren't cracked on the inside, they're good candidates for plasti dip. One thing to remember when you get around to it is that it takes about 10 coats applies 30 minutes apart if you've got deep cracks. Put masking tape over the large holes, and also over the vacuum taps. Rough them up good with 220 grit sandpaper, and wipe them down with acetone. Apply the coats 30 minutes apart, and plan on doing them all on the same day. When I did mine I got about 7 coats on and it was getting late, so I decided to finish the next morning. The 8th coat reacted with the previous coats, and I wound up with a somewhat rough finish. Still looked good, but it will look better if you get them all on within 30 minutes of each other. Don't be afraid of carb removal and installation - it's kind of a pain with the stock airbox, but it's just not that tough. 'Course there is that old saying about fixing stuff that ain't broke...

[fredintoon]

hmmm....maybe I'll need to save this project for MOM... - - -

Hi Drake,
unless you are going to get your sweet old silver-haired mother to fix those intakes, who is MOM?

[bikerphil]

Fred, Meeting Of the Minds.