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  • #16
    The

    one thing you left out. Any jetting advise is on the assumption that before mods you had it jetted correctly. If you do not, then obviously you can't be helped. But i get your drift anyhow.
    '81 1100 MNS - "Midnight XSpress"
    Original except:
    120 mains outer cylinders - 125 mains inner cylinders - Ceramic headers - Powder coated pipes, covers calipers, and MC's
    4 pods - Air box gutted--E3 Plugs - High Back seat - Grooved out swing arm - SS brake lines
    Fork brace - 160 speedo - Auto CCT
    All gold paint and chrome replaced with GOLD plate

    "STUPID is Forever" Ron White.
    Contact me by PM -I don't deal with stupid anymore.

    Big John

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    • #17
      That is a BIG assumption
      Healthy is merely the slowest rate at which you can die

      Some people will tell you that slow is good - and it may be, on some days - but I am here to tell you that fast is better. I’ve always believed this, in spite of the trouble it’s caused me. Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube. That is why God made fast motorcycles, Bubba….Hunter S. Thompson

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by t71ford View Post
        ...if you are really concerned, dyno it with an A/F sniffer, and you will know exactly what it is doing.
        What is a A/F sniffer? Air/Fuel ratio?
        Four wheels move your body, two wheels move your soul.

        ATGATT, It could save your life!

        1980 XS 1100SG
        Dyna 3 Ohm Hi Output Coils
        Pod Filters
        DynoJet Kit
        T.C.'s Fuse Block
        Slip Streamer Turbo Windshield
        Custom Tank and Side Cover Decals
        V-Max Auto CCT

        Comment


        • #19
          Yep. It is a probe that is put in the end of the exhaust pipe that measures the air/fuel ratio of the bike in real time while it is running. (Had to be careful how I phrased "probe up your tailpipe) Your printed dyno sheet will show you what the mixture ratio is at a particular load and speed, and also compare that mixture against an ideal. It is pretty slick, since it tells you exactly what is really happening in real time conditions. It is the only way to go for exact tuning. I have seen varied prices on a dyno run. I can get it done here for about 20-25 dollars, but not every where is that cheap. It usually takes a couple runs to get everything sorted, but is the ONLY way to get spot on results. Everything else is just "pretty close" although some guys get "really pretty close.
          Healthy is merely the slowest rate at which you can die

          Some people will tell you that slow is good - and it may be, on some days - but I am here to tell you that fast is better. I’ve always believed this, in spite of the trouble it’s caused me. Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube. That is why God made fast motorcycles, Bubba….Hunter S. Thompson

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by t71ford View Post
            Yep. It is a probe that is put in the end of the exhaust pipe that measures the air/fuel ratio of the bike in real time while it is running. (Had to be careful how I phrased "probe up your tailpipe) Your printed dyno sheet will show you what the mixture ratio is at a particular load and speed, and also compare that mixture against an ideal. It is pretty slick, since it tells you exactly what is really happening in real time conditions. It is the only way to go for exact tuning. I have seen varied prices on a dyno run. I can get it done here for about 20-25 dollars, but not every where is that cheap. It usually takes a couple runs to get everything sorted, but is the ONLY way to get spot on results. Everything else is just "pretty close" although some guys get "really pretty close.


            JAT

            I noticed that you can get a air/fuel ratio meters. From what I can tell they are around $150.00. Can you use something like that to tune the bike? If so what would you look for? I think I would need to install a O2 sensor? What would the proper air/fuel ratio be?

            Also has anyone done this before?


            Thanks

            Ozz
            Four wheels move your body, two wheels move your soul.

            ATGATT, It could save your life!

            1980 XS 1100SG
            Dyna 3 Ohm Hi Output Coils
            Pod Filters
            DynoJet Kit
            T.C.'s Fuse Block
            Slip Streamer Turbo Windshield
            Custom Tank and Side Cover Decals
            V-Max Auto CCT

            Comment


            • #21
              Problem is that then you have to have a way to also measure and record load, RPM and throttle position to make that A/F data really useful. Sure its a little better then the "seat of the pants" measurements most of us make but still not nearly as good as a dyno pull.
              1979 xs1100 Special -
              Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power

              Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.

              Originally posted by fredintoon
              Goes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
              My Bike:
              [link is broken]

              Comment


              • #22
                What Psyco said. All the data of the dyno run works together to let you know the useful real time operating conditions of the engine.
                Now, an A/F gauge tapped into your exhaust (or exhausts if you have two) will tell you the same thing, provided that you are able to monitor your tach and A/F gauge, and be able to correlate the two so that you know the A/F ratio at any given RPM under a constant load. A dyno does this in one run (about 2-5 minutes) and graphs it on paper for future reference. It is definitely faster than the way you describe, but you could do it that way.

                Proper A/F is (and many have their own opinions) a subjective question.For me it is about 13:1, or 13 parts air to 1 part fuel. This is for max power. Max economy will be achieved at around 14:1, and it can be run as rich as 12.5:1, although I think power and economy will begin to be sacrificed this rich. They will run much leaner or richer, but nowhere near the most efficiently.
                Last edited by T99Ford; 03-06-2010, 09:53 PM. Reason: Spelled "Psyco" wrong. Curses!
                Healthy is merely the slowest rate at which you can die

                Some people will tell you that slow is good - and it may be, on some days - but I am here to tell you that fast is better. I’ve always believed this, in spite of the trouble it’s caused me. Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube. That is why God made fast motorcycles, Bubba….Hunter S. Thompson

                Comment


                • #23
                  Just my 2.5 cents worth, So with all this talk of Dyno runs, and air/fuel ratio meters, how much improvement are you going to make on the bike in the first place?

                  If you tune your carbs by the plug color, your bound to be pretty dang close. IMO, unless you are out there shreddin up on the roads, you are not going to know the difference between the bike tuned on plug color and a good synch over the dyno run tuned machine. Yes, you will see those numbers on the paper. But longevity of the engine, or experience of the ride to 90% of those riding these bikes will be undetecable. JMHO
                  Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

                  When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

                  81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
                  80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


                  Previously owned
                  93 GSX600F
                  80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
                  81 XS1100 Special
                  81 CB750 C
                  80 CB750 C
                  78 XS750

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    DG makes a good point also. Where I think the dyno runs come in really handy is for those that are wanting to start modding a little, but lack the experience to read plugs, or can't tell the difference between a lean or rich bog. Additionally, plugs color pretty easy, so it can be difficult to tune all ranges thoroughly just off plugs alone. Plus, you have to take the plugs out a lot, and it takes a significant amount of time to get everything dialed properly going long hand like that.
                    A dyno run can tell you all of this on paper in 5 minutes, and all you have to do is run the bike. There is the main advantage. To some, the cost is not worth that advantage, but I think everyone agrees it is the fastest and most accurate way to tune, but by no means the only way.
                    Healthy is merely the slowest rate at which you can die

                    Some people will tell you that slow is good - and it may be, on some days - but I am here to tell you that fast is better. I’ve always believed this, in spite of the trouble it’s caused me. Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube. That is why God made fast motorcycles, Bubba….Hunter S. Thompson

                    Comment

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