Brushed Steel / Brushed Aluminum?

[marshall]

I've done a number of searches and couldn't find any examples of somebody going for a "brushed steel" or "brushed aluminum" look on their parts - usually people want to buff them out for a "mirror" look. I really like the look of steel and aluminum that have been brushed with a wire wheel, NOT necessarily sanded/polished/buffed to a "mirror" finish.

It sounds like there are 2 main problems with this; A) if you use a wire wheel on aluminum parts it will embed steel in the aluminum and cause it to oxidize quickly, and B) in order to maintain the parts after you've brushed them, you need to either apply lots of wax frequently, or clear coat them using some sort of expensive or difficult-to-use two-component paint which is capable of bonding directly to bare steel or aluminum.

Anyone found ways to get around these issues? The specific parts I'd like to do this with are the round cases of the speedometer and tach, the (previously gold) trim around the headlight opening and covering the swingarm pivots, the engine side covers and the clutch cover plate. I don't even know what material the trim pieces are made of, but I'm pretty sure the speedo/tach housings are steel and the engine stuff is all aluminum. The speedo/tach housings would be a PITA to wax, but the rest of those parts are fairly easy to access.

Also, I want to brush the paint of the tips of the cooling fins on the side of the engine. Not sure how I'd go about keeping them shiny. Anyone done that with good results? Everything is currently midnight-special-black.

Thanks!

Marshall

[Ken Talbot]

How about sandblasting and/or glassbeading?





Give them a shot of good clearcoat when you're done. This the look you're after?

[petejw]

ive used the wire wheel on a grinder many times
and have never had any problems with rust particles,
but in saying that, im one of those that like a mirror finish,
maybe the buffing removes any particles.
Also use a used wheel, a new wheel will take too much
of the alloy and can cause galling.

anytime i have seen a brushed finish on alloy its been
clear coated afterwards, it does oxides very quickly if
it hasnt been treated with something.

[crazy steve]

For steel/chrome parts, the wire wheel idea would be best. For aluminum, I'd use whatever grit sandpapaper or scotchbrite pad that gives you the desired finish. I'd use clear powdercoat to protect the finished parts. You could anodize the aluminum, but that's not lo-buck.

'78E original owner

[tinman905]

If you use a stainless steel wool you don't have to worry about it oxidizing or corroding. There are course to extra fine grades available depending on what finish you are looking for. Sandblasting will remove the clear coat faster and a good base after to get that brushed look. Clear coating will dull any finish you achieve and turn yellow over time.

[Rev.Rick]

Ditto on what crazy steve said about the scotch bright pads. I used both the fine blue disks and the ultra fine gray disks when polishing my stuff. The blue disks leave a nice satin finish. Once you remove any clear coat or paint a light hand with a dremel and a stainless steal polishing wheel brush will give nice results too.

[79XS11F]

I've done a number of searches and couldn't find any examples of somebody going for a "brushed steel" or "brushed aluminum" look on their parts - usually people want to buff them out for a "mirror" look. I really like the look of steel and aluminum that have been brushed with a wire wheel, NOT necessarily sanded/polished/buffed to a "mirror" finish.

It sounds like there are 2 main problems with this; A) if you use a wire wheel on aluminum parts it will embed steel in the aluminum and cause it to oxidize quickly, and B) in order to maintain the parts after you've brushed them, you need to either apply lots of wax frequently, or clear coat them using some sort of expensive or difficult-to-use two-component paint which is capable of bonding directly to bare steel or aluminum.

Anyone found ways to get around these issues? The specific parts I'd like to do this with are the round cases of the speedometer and tach, the (previously gold) trim around the headlight opening and covering the swingarm pivots, the engine side covers and the clutch cover plate. I don't even know what material the trim pieces are made of, but I'm pretty sure the speedo/tach housings are steel and the engine stuff is all aluminum. The speedo/tach housings would be a PITA to wax, but the rest of those parts are fairly easy to access.

Also, I want to brush the paint of the tips of the cooling fins on the side of the engine. Not sure how I'd go about keeping them shiny. Anyone done that with good results? Everything is currently midnight-special-black.

Thanks!

Marshall

All of the aluminum parts on my modified bike is ether brushed aluminum ( on brass wheels) or glass beaded aluminum followed by clear coat. I think the thread is named "and so it begins, another bike building project" or something like that.
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21077
Rob

[fabricgator]

How about using a 400 or 1000 grit sandpaper.... I achieve this finish in some of my fabrication with a benchtop belt sander.

Just a suggestion...

[marshall]

Rob, what kind of clear coat are you using on the aluminum after brass wire wheel?

I'm probably going to get my frame painted by a local painter after doing most of the prep work myself. Maybe he would be able to give me a good deal on clear coating these parts? He said he would put a urethane or epoxy type paint on the frame.

Sanding and brass-wire-wheeling would probably both work for the look I'm going for. The glass bead/sand blasting looks good, but not quite what I had in mind and probably more expensive than doing it myself. When people talk about using scotch-brite and sandpaper, do you do it by hand or put the pads on a power tool? I suppose it would take too long to sand off the existing paint, so I'd want to use a paint stripper before sanding.

I would consider investing in an electric sander or a Dremel, but it would be great if I could do most of this with my bench grinder. Most of the parts I'm interested in don't have small features that would require a Dremel, but can you get brass wheels for a bench grinder?

Thanks for the help,
Marshall

[79XS11F]

Rob, what kind of clear coat are you using on the aluminum after brass wire wheel?

I'm probably going to get my frame painted by a local painter after doing most of the prep work myself. Maybe he would be able to give me a good deal on clear coating these parts? He said he would put a urethane or epoxy type paint on the frame.

Sanding and brass-wire-wheeling would probably both work for the look I'm going for. The glass bead/sand blasting looks good, but not quite what I had in mind and probably more expensive than doing it myself. When people talk about using scotch-brite and sandpaper, do you do it by hand or put the pads on a power tool? I suppose it would take too long to sand off the existing paint, so I'd want to use a paint stripper before sanding.

I would consider investing in an electric sander or a Dremel, but it would be great if I could do most of this with my bench grinder. Most of the parts I'm interested in don't have small features that would require a Dremel, but can you get brass wheels for a bench grinder?

Thanks for the help,
Marshall

I used high hear clear coat on all the parts. Got it a CTC.
Yes you can get brass wire wheels to fit onto your bench grinder. I used a Course wheel on one side and fine wheel on the other.