My first ever carb rebuild.

[Larrym]

NO to Needle Nose!!

Part "C" in that wonderful pic helped a lot. All four of those are still half in the damn tower. I though they came out aweful easy. In the service manual in step 8 I am told to use needle nose to pull out the main nozzle... If a pic could be posted of one half in and out that would be wonderful because I do not want to muscle fu(l< anything else in this carb. That would be "D" in that wonderfully helpful pic above.

I second bikerphil's recommendation of using a wooden dowel or pencil to drive the tubes from the bottom of the carb out the top. I've deformed one of the tops of those tubes when I used manly strength and the needle nose pliers to pull them up and out. Luckily the tube was in a spare parts carb I was practicing on.

See Wildkat's post with pics :

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showpost.p...13&postcount=2

[Ken Talbot]

I'd also try lightly tapping the end of the screwdriver during the twisting action. This tends to release some of the downward force the jet may be exerting in the same way an impact driver works.

And that is a great lead-in to another piece of advice - get yourself an impact driver!



Use it by default whenever you're trying to loosen a screw, or with the appropriate adapter, a hex head fastener, and you'll save yourself a lot of grief. With the proper adapter and a light touch with the hammer, you can also use this to loosen brass jets in your carbs.

Of course, you could just try first with a screwdriver or with a slightly rounded-off allen key, just to see if a particular fastener might be loose enough to come off with out a fight. Just be sure to have your drill and some EZ-outs handy.

JAT, YMMV, DAMHIKIJD .....

[fabricgator]

I'm thinking about using that impact driver shown to remove my pilot jets, and I'm thinking that the pilots are just too deep in there to get with a 1/4" screw tip..... Then I remember that I bought some screw driver kit and it has extended tips that just might have one that will work OR a volunteer that can be modified.

Thanks Ken, you were inspirational!

Now, where do I look for that kit.........

[CatatonicBug]

I had to easy-out 2 of mine when I first took it apart (came out really easy that way). The other 2 came out with a modified screwdriver. I used one of my long, thin screwdrivers and touched the grinder to the sides of the blade a bit. That was enough to shrink it to fit down into the hole. Now I have a tool that I can use every time I clean the carbs!

[vileneeds]

All righty then. No leaks, that checked good. Throttle cable may be an issue, not 100% sure on that yet. I hosed anything that moved on the carbs with WD-40, waited for ten then checked the the action on the throttle. Lots better. afterward I took apart the throttle and starter button housing and found some glue from the former "cruise control" thee PO installed. Also the cable for the throttle was routed six kinds of wrong. not sure how i want to fix this. I guess the tank and line need to come off and a complete re=route done. Any thoughts.

[Larrym]

No Trail Blazing: cables

I guess the tank and line need to come off and a complete re=route done. Any thoughts.

Um..yeah. The throttle (and clutch cable as well...) have to be routed a specific way. Otherwise strange things can happen when the handlebars are turned one way or the other. IE: turning to the left in a curve and then having the engine increase speed suddenly/unexpectedly.

This is one of the "Dead Zones" in my Clymers repair Manual. The book overlooks the matter of how to route the cables and doesn't provide any diagrams to guide you/me.

From what I've "heard" the OEM Factory manual does have this info. I could be wrong about this though. Can download the factory manual from here and see if the info/diagram is present:

http://www.ringler.us/family/mybike.html

Once had a bike that would slip the clutch during a turn: quite a pucker-upper!

[vileneeds]

I have the Clymer and this problem is not in the trouble shooting matrix either. Luckily I have an un-molested bike right beside it for comparison of the routing. Thanks for the link to the factory manual. You know anyone who has the "Shop Manual" for this bike?

[CatatonicBug]

You know anyone who has the "Shop Manual" for this bike?

That IS the shop manual. Yamaha made one, and Clymer made one. Both are posted for download on my website. I think one other publisher made one too, but I have not heard of anyone referring to it.

[cywelchjr]

That IS the shop manual. Yamaha made one, and Clymer made one. Both are posted for download on my website. I think one other publisher made one too, but I have not heard of anyone referring to it.

That would be Haynes. I have heard of them, and I'm pretty sure I saw one advertised on eBay, and I have seen them for sale in electronic form, but I haven't found one for free yet.

[vileneeds]

I would like the one with the tolerances and the shop one should be better detailed for ease of maintenance. The two I have are the Clymer and the owners manual. While these books are usefull I am used to a more indepth look at trouble shooting and theory. Airplanes are fun.

[motoman]

Throttle cable routing can be seen once you remove seat and tank. Cable routes over FRONT of tripple clamps, down right side of frame. There is a couple of already factory welded-on raised pieces that cable goes through on right side of upper frame. Pretty self explanatory once you remove the fuel tank.