Driver shaft universal joint rubber missing

[dontlikeoc]

I have looked at a used XS1100 Special today. Overall body condition is good. However, the rubber boots that supposed to cover the universal joint between the transmission and the shaft had been taken out for as long as since the original owner. The universal joint has always been completely exposed and is lubricated and completely covered in dust.

Should I expect a major problem with this bike and therefore pass it? It came from Minnesota. In such a cold place, does the rubber boots rot off in 30 years? Or, is it a sign of prior accident/transmission problem?

[trbig]

You can still buy new rubber boots, but they aren't cheap. Seems like the last one I bought was $54 and it's getting cracks in it already after just a couple years. The main problem I see is that if you take off the rear wheel, then disconnect the 4 nuts that hold on the final drive.. the way the driveline cover is angled down to the final drive, any wet sand gravel etc will be back there against the gears of your driveline and final drive. Worst case scenario, you have to replace the driveline and final drive.. both would probably cost less than a new rubber boot.

I don't think that a missing boot would necessarily mean a bad PO. You can find out more by doing a proper compression check. I always look at a bike I'm buying and think worst case scenario... that the motor is junk.. and could I get my money back from the other stuff that's still good on the bike.


Tod

[XSokieSPECIAL]

Is that why you have a garage full of junk?

Just trying to get your money back.

I hope you got at least ONE good rubber left.

[trbig]

Excuse me?? I have a garage AND shop full! They aren't making these any more, ya know! A couple years back.. I needed three or four bikes just to keep this one running!


Tod

[DiverRay]

Excuse me?? I have a garage AND shop full! They aren't making these any more, ya know! A couple years back.. I needed three or four bikes just to keep this one running!

If you didn't BEAT the poor thing, it may last longer!!!
As far as the rubber boot, it's NOT that big a deal. You can buy a new, or used one. It WILL keep the junk out of the shaft and final drive area. If you do NOT ride in the rain and severe dust, it should NOT make much difference. JMHO

[dontlikeoc]

You guys know each other's garages! Fun.

To be clear, the previous owners had been riding the bike without the rubber boot - in Mennesota(Snow and rain) and the bike had never been garaged - for about twenty years. What damage should I expect already having been done?

[trbig]

I'd plan on replacing the wheel bearings.. salt/sand/water over the years can't have been kind to them. The front ones are cheap. The big one in the back isn't. There's no way to know though without taking the rear wheel off and looking, so it's going to be a gamble.

On the bottom of the frame where the motor sits over it, run your fingers along the bottom side and check for holes in the tubes that have rusted through.

Besides that, it sounds a bit like it was rode hard and put away wet over the years. What kind of price are they asking? I'd definately do a compression check though. Anything under @ 115-120 while cold, or big variance between cylinders... and my offering price would go way down.


Tod

[dontlikeoc]

Thank you for your reply, Tod. So, am I correct that you wouldnt be worried about the exposed universal joint part itself?

The seller is asking for $800 but with the carb - JB welded float pin mount - apart, the brakes needing bleeding and fork seals leaking, no way I can justify the asking. But if anything driveshaft related is a problem, I would stay away.

[trbig]

Naw.. I wouldn't worry about the driveline stuff. If you find the driveline gears and final drive are messed up, those can be had pretty cheap. Many of the guys on here have gone to the 750/850 final drives and have no use for the stock ones any more.


Unless you just need the bike for parts or the exhaust is in immaculate condition (Doubtfull being parked outside all along) I wouldn't give more than probably $200 for it. Less than that if it doesn't actually run right now. Too many out there still in better shape for cheaper. For $800, one had better be in decent shape and running before I'd buy it.. but that's just me. Maybe they go for more over there in Cali.

Tod

[dontlikeoc]

Tod, thanks again for your advice. The driveline being so replaceable is a great news to me. The owner made it clear that he wouldnt part for $200. I will see.

[3Phase]

Caveat emptor

The owner made it clear that he wouldnt part for $200. I will see.

Dontlike,

As Tod says, the drive line and final drive are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace but make it clear to the owner that running without the u-joint cover allowed water and dirt into the swingarm. It will have to be checked, cleaned and greased or replaced.

Even a small tear will allow water and dirt to run down inside the swingarm toward the final drive and turn the drive line/final drive coupler grease into emulsified goo with all of the the lubricating properties of water-based valve grinding compound. Normal running stresses and the dirt combine to do what they do best and destroy the hardened faces of the drive line and the final drive coupler splines. That happened to my bike and I had to replace the drive line and the final drive coupler.

If it was, indeed, long term then the missing cover says quite a bit about how the bike was ridden and maintained. It may be a good deal and you should buy it immediately or it may be a perfect example of a wonderful one-hoss-shay and you should run, not walk, away before you spend too much time and money on a $100 bike.


Regards,

Scott

[cywelchjr]

Yep, mine was a runner (and running good when I got it) for 800, and I ended up changing the engine at about 6 months because of a knock that started about 2 months after I bought it. That said it's been on the road all but 3 weeks of the 14 months I've had it. And it came with two vetter fairings, one of which was mounted on the bike and with vetter hard bag mounting hardware, which meant I could go full dresser just by finding bags without the hardware (made them a LOT cheaper).