New owner

[CatatonicBug]

I was thinking about buying a bottle of the fuel additive carb cleaner with my next fill up. Is there any reason I should not do this? Does the stuff even work in a bike?

Seafoam is decent (don't waste your money on any other brand), but really, until you actually take the carbs apart and chip the gunk out, that type of cleaner can't do much. Think of those cleaners as like using mouthwash on your teeth. Unless you actually get a toothbrush in there (or a dentist's tools), you're only touching the surface.

[draketrumpet]

Carb cleaner fuel additive

So, I'm not going to have time to seriously look at anything that involves a good strip down for at least a month. I was thinking about buying a bottle of the fuel additive carb cleaner with my next fill up. Is there any reason I should not do this? Does the stuff even work in a bike?

[CatatonicBug]

I think the rubbers ones that are hollow and filled with air work best.

I thought the ones filled with beads were better!?

[madmax-im]

Just be aware that Mobil1 is synthetic, and most folks avoid sing synthetic in these bikes, as it has been reported to cause clutch slippage.

That needs some clarification...synthetic in itself does not cause clutch slippage...its oil that has MOLY in it that causes clutch slippage...If you see alabel on the oil container that says "Energy saving" DONT USE THAT! If it does not have that label then you can use it. No Moly oil is what you want...

[trbig]

Top end of motor.. cams, cam chain, shim buckets.. etc. They're kind of a noisy top end motor anyway, but some oils will make it worse.


Tod

[draketrumpet]

Another newbie question.

that same oil in another bike may make the top end rattle like crazy.

So I can listen for these things, when you say 'top end' are you referring to the physical top of the engine or the upper limits of the engine speed?

Thanks.

[cywelchjr]

Now.. who wants to talk about the best tires for the bikes?

I think the rubbers ones that are hollow and filled with air work best.

[draketrumpet]

Best tires are easy..........the round ones that fit on the rims and inside the fenders and swing arm.

LoL.

Pick an oil that DOES NOT have this "Energy Conserving" written on it. The bottom half of that donut should be blank if you want to use it in the bikes.

Well, for the record, my choice of oil this time is NOT "energy conserving" b/c as a registered republican, I must automatically forswear anything that might sound 'green'. I mean, why else would I get an old gas guzzler of a bike?

(for those of you who don't know me...well, I guess that's all of you...please know that I can be a little too sarcastic sometimes)

Oh, yeah, the headlight thing was just a fuse, so that's all fixed up. Though I almost cracked my sidecover in two putting it back on Hopefully that super glue holds the tab on.

[DGXSER]

Best tires are easy..........the round ones that fit on the rims and inside the fenders and swing arm.

[MrOzz]

...Now.. who wants to talk about the best tires for the bikes?


Tod

O No, Not again. LOL

[trbig]

Opinions are like ***holes....

... everyone has them.

I run Spectro Gold, which I believe is a synthetic. Got it at cycle shop....seems to be popular.

Everybody on here runs what THEY believe is the best choice of oil in their bike. One bike may like a certain brand/weight, and that same oil in another bike may make the top end rattle like crazy. I think the majority on here run the Castrol 20/50, but there are oil threads aplenty to read where people have stated their opinions and why.

Some are convinced "Motorcycle" oils are the way to go and worth the extra cost, and some think it's a scam. Some use synthetic, some can't. Some use different weights, some use different brands. What usually is a general consensus, is;

1. Use oil. Period. Whatever kind, whatever weight. Keep it topped off.

2. Our wet clutches need more zinc than a lot of the cleaner oils. Most of the oils used for diesel motors is a good choice for our bikes. What you need to look for is the API donut on the back like this one.





Pick an oil that DOES NOT have this "Energy Conserving" written on it. The bottom half of that donut should be blank if you want to use it in the bikes.


Now.. who wants to talk about the best tires for the bikes?


Tod

[draketrumpet]

Rain rain, go away

So, it looks like my work has been forestalled for a few days. I wish I had a garage, but all things in due time. So, I'll let my Monster (yay, I named it) rest peacefully under the cover.

[fabricgator]

I run Spectro Gold, which I believe is a synthetic. Got it at cycle shop....seems to be popular.

[trbig]

To answer your question, that round cup with a bolt in the center is your filter cup. You need to take that down to swap out the filter. That large O-ring isn't very cooperative around the groove on the cup, but if you smear a little grease on it, it will stay there for when you go to put it back in. The small one goes around your filter bolt.

Straight behind the filter cup you see is the oil pan. On the front left side of that pan is the oil drain plug. Just draining the pan won't drain the filter cup. Just removing the filter cup won't drain the pan..

Another thing.. right behind the back of the oil pan and recessed up right in the middle, is an 18mm drain plug for your middle drive. It would be a good idea to drain this and your final drive and put in new SYNTHETIC gear oil in these. No problems with synthetics here like in the crankcase sometimes.

*******WARNING*********

Do not drain the middle drive or the final drive until you loosen the top filler caps. On the middle drive it's a 6mm allen wrench and that thing acts like it's welded on sometimes. It'd be bad to drain the oil, only to find out you couldn't fill them back up.


Tod

[draketrumpet]

Interesting. The maintenance page says that several riders are using it with success. I'll keep an eye out for it though.