No spark while cranking.........

[fabricgator]

Hello,

I am trying to revive my Xs1100 SF 1979 in South Florida.

I have been looking at your threads and am going to go through the carbs and I am going to procure a colortune kit. What mm size kit do I need?

Anyhow, While trying to get an initial start the other night, I noted that while cranking, there was no spark until I let off the button and the momentum carried it over (plugs removed) I did eventually get a start, and it ran like junk... Happy to get a little heat in her old bones!

Can you advise about the ignition circuitry and what possible faulty component should be looked at. I sure do appreciate your help and I will offer any wisdom I can impart in any field of my expertise in return (of course)

I am new to the forum, I thought I was a member, but it has been a few years.

Additionally, wasn't there another XS-11. com or something similar , that was a commercial shop out in colorado or there abouts? I remember looking through their website and they would offer parts, and advice, especially I liked looking at the completed projects for sale and getting ideas for my project....

Thanks again for your anticipated assistance, I just love this cycle and now I am lucky enough to have the time and a place (garage)to bring her back to the glory of being king of the road....... now, if only I had an unlimited source of income....


Kurt
Treasure Coast, Florida

I have a parking problem everywhere I go....

2001 Mitsubishi Montero
1987 944 n/a
1979 Yamaha XS 1100 SF
1984 Suzuki SP 250
1944 Aeronca L-3B Grasshopper

[bikerphil]

I'd check the pickup coil wires first, under the left side ignition cover. Also, I'd unscrew each spark plug cap from it's wire and trim off 1/4 inch, then reinstall. Bad connection here will also cause problems. Here's the tech tip...

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...+coil+wire+fix

Our engines take a 14MM colortune plug

Welcome to the forum. Good to have another S. Floridian here.

[CatatonicBug]

Welcome aboard! The other XS website you may be remembering belonged to our "patron Saint", Bob Jones, who owned Merriam Cycles, in Kansas City. He passed 2 years ago, and we try to keep his memory alive here.

This is now the definitive source for XS11 knowledge, and with the help of the UK site, and a few others, the folks here can answer just about any XS-related question you might have (and plenty of others, too!)

We like pictures, so be sure to post some as soon as you can!

[fabricgator]

Thanks for the tips Phil,

That is just the kind of answers I was hoping for. I love the idea of reseating the HT leads/caps, I have had a weak spark on #4, that may cure that. I will look into the advance wiring near to right away.
I dragged her out yesterday and gave her a bath before the rain came in the afternoon. I think she is going to love the attention I plan on giving her.
I need to source some good fuel line and go through the carbs, I have always had a pop at idle and deceleration. Its from one of the outside cylinders. Possibly that #4

Thanks again Phil, and I look forward to seeing you on the road someday!

I am impressed with the quick lead time......

Have a Great Day!

[fabricgator]

Hi Marshall,
Thanks for making me feel welcome..

Yes, you are right..... I remember Merriam Cycles. I am so sorry to here of Bob's passing.
I was looking at your webpage yesterday, nice work on your cycle.
I will try to get some photos up for you all to be able to gauge my progress...

Thanks again....
Kurt

[bikerphil]

Yep, no problem. I'd clean and dielectric grease the connectors involving the ign. system too. The glass fuse box is also a trouble area on these bikes, and can be replaced with the blade type fairly easily. Read more here...

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=792

Yep, I make it up your way every so often. Member Cobia is in Jupiter and we ride up around that way once or twice a month. Good luck gettin' the bike running sweet.

[dbeardslee]

Welcome to ch11. A digital multimeter comes in real handy for diagnosing ignition issues. You can check the pickup coils by pulling the four wire connector on the tci. Hold it so the slots are horizontal, and put a probe on each of the 'top' slots with the dmm set to the 2k ohm range. Readings should be 720 ohms plus or minus 20%. If you wiggle the wires down by the pickups, and you see big swings in the readings, you've got suspect pickup wires. Repeat the procedure for the 'lower' slots.

Plug the 4 wire connector back in, turn the ignition on (but not running), and place one probe against a good frame ground, and put the other probe on the wires of the big tci connector (from the back of the connector while it's still attached to the TCI) one at a time. You should get 12v readings on the grey, white/red, orange, and red/white, and 6v on the black/white.

You can also check your primary ignition coil resistance there too. Turn the ignition off, pull the big connector, and put probes on the orange and red/white, followed by the grey and red/white. Should get about a 3 ohm reading.

Then get back to cleaning connectors, like Phil said . And don't forget the ones behind the fuse block, and check the fuse block itself for continuity. Probably have to remove the fuse block mounting plate to get at the connectors.

[XSokieSPECIAL]

fabricgator,

The coils should have full power bypassing the ignition resistor during cranking.

Disconnect the solenoid plug to your starter and see if you have power to the coils while holding the starter button in.

Not an expert on this but if you have no spark during cranking it seems to me it would be in the starting system...IE starter button or ignitor systems

Check all connections especially behind the fuse box.

My 2 cents

[dbeardslee]

Check all connections especially behind the fuse box.

And pay particular attention to that red/white wire everywhere it goes, including the handlebar kill switch. The kill switch itself should also be cleaned, but be careful - there's a tiny ball bearing and spring inside it that can really fly.

[CatatonicBug]

I need to source some good fuel line and go through the carbs, I have always had a pop at idle and deceleration. Its from one of the outside cylinders. Possibly that #4

For the fuel line, look for Tygon brand stuff. It's rather expensive, but nice and flexible, and doesn't get stiff over time or with heat/cold like the black rubber stuff. It comes in a few colors I think, but all I ever found was a yellow/green translucent color. It works great, and doesn't even seem to need hose clamps.

The popping sound may be as simple as a mixture screw adjustment. After you clean the carbs, be sure to adjust the air mixture screws correctly. A Colortune is the only real tool for getting that done, unless you can/want to do it by ear.

[fabricgator]

Thanks for the help...

Hello Guys, you are great to help!

I have another symptom that may be indicative...
I noted that when I first turned on the power, that the headlight did not illuminate. I remember about three years ago, I removed someone's monkey wiring that had the headlight hot wired to the ignition... I repaired the reserve lighting unit issue, I think with help of this forum or possibly Merriam Cycle or even the manual. It was a puzzle, but when I found it, it was something simple.... I wish I kept a log book.

Anyway, as I was trying for a start, at one point, the headlight came on as usual, slightly dimming when cranking, and then other times it would not.

As stated by one of you helpful folks, I do have a minor issue with the handlebar kill switch. Yes, I know about the flying ball and spring. I found when disassembling and painting the RH pod, that the micarta disk was cracked, and I repaired it somehow.... I will have to investigate it further too.

I have a new handle bar, switches, master cylinder EBAY win in transit. So I hope any broken or missing parts will be in abundance for replacement. My master cylinder resovoir has an issue with the reservoir to body seal, I think I have used RTV Silicon as a three year fix, but that is too hokey for me to continue in that fashion.

My 10 amp ignition fuse holder has a broken ear so I did a quick solder it to the fuse for a temp repair.

My fork tubes have filiform corrosion snakes on the exterion surface..... tough on the seals. I try to keep them as polished and smooth as I can, yet I can't wait to stumble across a pair at an affordable price.

I am enthusiastic that with the carb information available here (I still have yet to read it all) AND with the information you have bestowed upon me already, that I can have this artificial reef candidate (I hope she doesn't read this) back to the fine tuned machine I remember as a youth.

Have a great day guys and thank you!

Kurt

[dbeardslee]

Anyway, as I was trying for a start, at one point, the headlight came on as usual, slightly dimming when cranking

That's the way they're supposed to work. When you first turn the ignition on the headlight isn't on. If you crank it, and it doesn't start on the first crank, it will come on, as it will when it starts. After it's on, it's on. Not unusual for the light to dim when cranking - you're just using the battery, and the starter is going to draw a lot of power.

[CatatonicBug]

Sounds like you need to replace a few parts! TC sells a replacement fuse block that uses the blade-style fuses, and is MUCH more reliable than the glass fuse setup. I think the price is $10 or so, shipped, including connectors. Check out the sticky in the Parts For Sale section. I'm sure others will point you to a replacement Master cylinder and fork tubes.

[fabricgator]

If you crank it, and it doesn't start on the first crank, it will come on, as it will when it starts. After it's on, it's on. Not unusual for the light to dim when cranking...

Thanks Guys,
I know how the light is supposed to work, I'm just noting that it is operating funny too..

I'll bet a dollar that the issue is in the headlight bucket...
I think that is where I found a bad socko the last time. The whole reason someone improvised the lighting circuit before I got here.

I also have somewhat of a hybrid. George had bought an engiine from Norm at Jupiter cycle. It had been in great shape. We resealed the engine, and installed the existing carbs, on it. George, not being the tech of the century, never did get the thing running right and lost interest for a few years before I took possession and........ then I began neglecting her. She needs some lovin.

I've got a spare motor with second gear ringed out..... disassembled and hidden in my ex girlfriends attic. She keeps asking whats in those boxes....

I just bought ten gallons on 90 octane no Meth gasoline. I just flushed the tank and hope to lay into the carbs tomorrow. AND poking at her with the multimeter while stuff is soaking.

Engine s/n 3-3-01057
Frame s/n 3H3 009467

I'm also going to have to get a ruling from you guys about a weld I found....

The fun never ends!

Kurt,
South Florida

[oseaghdha]

That's the way they're supposed to work. When you first turn the ignition on the headlight isn't on. If you crank it, and it doesn't start on the first crank, it will come on...............................................

Huh?

If it kicks enough to bump the relay, then yeah.
Otherwise, no start= no light.