...And the bill keeps growing...

[Rev.Rick]

Well, everytime I think I'm about ready to button things up and get ready to ride, I find something else. While waiting for my carbtune to arrive, I decided to do a little polishing. Some past owner painted the valve cover and the crankcase covers with silver paint? I'm not sure what kind of paint it is but even Aircraft paint stripper has little effect on it (could be powder coating, not sure). Anyway I did both the covers over the ignition and the stator. Next In line is the valve cover. Since I had it off I checked the valve clearance. Not good! They are all too tight. The #1 and #4 intake valves are so tight I can't get a feeler gauge between them. the #2 and #3 are like .05 and .08. The exhaust valves ranged between .20 (#3) and .15. I don't have a valve tool so thats more $ and then get the correct shims. I certain wish I had of found this out before I bought the carbtune. Anyway Does anyone know a good place to get the shim bucket tool (cheap) and the shims (cheap). I know I sound like a bird, but wow, by the time I get to ride this thing for the 2nd time I may be divorced

[Ivan]

Stickies have a post about the valve shim library. The tool isn't necessary, you can loosen the cam caps to get the clearance to replace the shims.

Chances are you will just be moving a few of them to different places, and only actually need a couple different ones.

As long as you keep everything lined up, you can loosen the sprockets from the cams, which gives enough room to loosen the caps, and even pull the cams if you want. Just take your time and keep everything in line. Make sure its all lined up before tightening down the cams.

[Rev.Rick]

Thanks Ivan. I had read through some of the past threads about loosening the cams. I will try that. the biggest reason I posted this was for the shims . The past post I read looked like older ones so I wasn't sure about the availability of the shims. Thanks again, Rick

[bikerphil]

In case the valve shim library doesn't have the sizes you need, this supplier is very reasonable...

http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/valve_shims.htm

[trbig]

If you have any bike shops around you, call and ask them if they have any. Some will trade with you without cost. Mine is $5 each to walk in and get what I need. Take a caliper with you though. Some bikes made a 29.5mm shim as opposed to our 29mm. You can't tell the difference by looking or even having them side by side. They just won't fit in the bucket seat.


Tod

[DGXSER]

With that many valves needing to be adjusted, I would go the route of loosening the cams over the tool.

As to shims, I found a local bike shop that has a fll assortment and will sell me all I need for $3 a shim IIRC give or take a buck a shim.

[dbeardslee]

The #1 and #4 intake valves are so tight I can't get a feeler gauge between them.

That can be a problem when it comes to ordering shims. You really need to be able to get a gauge in there to determine the shims you need. You might be able to move some of the other shims to these locations (if you've got thinner ones that are currently installed on other valves) to open the gap enough to get a gauge in. JAT

I'm with the rest on not needing the valve tool. I borrowed one from a friend the last time I adjusted valves, and was seriously considering buying it from him - so I could take it out in the driveway and beat the snot out of it with a three pound sledge - not a great tool.

[fredintoon]

Hi Guys,
this is embarrassing. The XS11 is my very first shim & bucket motor; all the others that weren't 2-strokes have had sensible wrench-adjustable tappets. I was hoping that at my age any valve clearance issues my XS11 developed would be the problem of whoever inherited the machine.
But in case I have to deal with it myself, I need to know.
Do the clearances get bigger as the valve train wears so that they clatter louder as the miles go by?
Or do the clearances close up so I won't know if the valves are about to burn out or if I am losing more of my hearing?

[bikerphil]

Fred, the clearances close up over time. The valve gets hammered into the seat reducing clearance. When in doubt, check 'em out.

[cywelchjr]

Hi Guys,
this is embarrassing. The XS11 is my very first shim & bucket motor; all the others that weren't 2-strokes have had sensible wrench-adjustable tappets. I was hoping that at my age any valve clearance issues my XS11 developed would be the problem of whoever inherited the machine.
But in case I have to deal with it myself, I need to know.
Do the clearances get bigger as the valve train wears so that they clatter louder as the miles go by?
Or do the clearances close up so I won't know if the valves are about to burn out or if I am losing more of my hearing?

They wear closer. I guess it's the lack of moving parts, but according to our roommate who is going to UTI to become a mechanic, this is common to shim and bucket valve systems.

[randy]

If the library comes up short, I have a few dozen assorted shims. Let me know what you need and I'll check stock.

[petejw]

Ive just done adj mine again,
with regards with the shims that are tight,
i dropped 2 sizes on the shim that was fitted that is if the shim was 270
i put a 260, this will get you close, if not will allow enough of a gap
to measure.
Ive never used the tool,
i do one cam at a time, remove all the cam nuts, do NOT loosen the cam
chain there is no need, and prevents any chance of slipping.
the cam will rise enough to be able to remove the shims, you can also
rotate the crankshaft slowly and carefully, but do NOT rotate the engine backwards to allign the cam to get to the next shim, when the shims are replaced
torque back up and do the next cam, then while the cover is off carefully
adjust the tensioner per specs.

btw once you have adj all the valves correctly,
you wont believe the difference in power and performance.
i had 2 tight intake valves on mine.

[petejw]

Hi Fred,
The valves do close after time,
the manual states for better performance
to set the valves with the smaller clearances.
IMO if the valves have had no work done to them, that is
valve lap/grind id go for the smaller clearances, if the
valves have had work id go the larger clearances.

[Rev.Rick]

Hey Pete, thats the exact method I used last night to start adjusting mine. I loosened all the cam caps and used a screwdriver to gently lift up on the cam enough to move the shims around until I got the clearances needed. I got one of the ones that was too tight corrected by installing one that was .10 smaller. I was able to move around the shims so that I got 3 of the exhaust valves and 1 of the intake valves within specs. Randy is sending me a shim that will correct the one exhaust valve I lack and I'm waiting to hear about the other shims I need. Rick

[dbeardslee]

i do one cam at a time, remove all the cam nuts

When I do mine, I don't remove the nuts - just loosen them. I leave them a little tighter on one side so the cam rises at an angle when it pops loose. You'll still have enough room to get at the shims, but less stuff to fall down into the cam chain tunnel that way. JAT